Hiding wiring in the engine bay

[just4bob50]

I have my motor torn down to the block bacause I blew both head gaskkets, so I decided to change the cam also. So now that everything is gone i thought of all those pics I see on stangnet of guys who hid all the wiring in the engine bay. I am looking for advice on what would be the best way to go about doing that. Can it be done with out cutting and splicing wires, and if so what are the beat ways to route the seperate harnesses. Also if anyone could post pics up for inspiration that would be great.

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

If you just want to get the wires that drape over the Strut Towers out of the engine bay and tuck the main harness under the pinch weld to clean things up then you probably end up cutting 2 set of wires (or I did) 1 set to the overflow bottle, and 1 set to the A/C compressor, both sets of those wires need to be lengthened. Take all of those wires and run them through the large hole in the back of the Strut Towers and reconnect everything buck up in the fender well.
If you want to eliminate the main harness from under the pinch weld and route it differently then you'll need to cut about 3 more sets of wire and those wire deal with the TAD TAB and EGR solenoids, it's the only way to untangle all the other wires so that you have more length to the original wires.
There is a small write up on my site that might help also?

 

[Ozz]

what i did, thanks to Almost Stock's guidance: http://www.soniccherry.com/wires.html

The main thing to realize is they're just plugs and wires. You can't plug anything back into the wrong outlet, and it only goes back together one way. Except the starter solenoid, just take a picture or draw a diagram to remember how it all goes back together.

 

[Hickfied]

Hey mansonozz, What was that metal stuff that you used to smooth out your bay before you primed and painted?

 

[Ozz]

"All Metal" by USC: http://www.uschem.com/distributor/index.html <---vendor locator

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

"All Metal" by USC: http://www.uschem.com/distributor/index.html <---vendor locator

Dave,
You know what you’re posting is Distributors Information, not where the closest business is that sells the all metal when you post this site.
http://www.uschem.com/distributor/index.html <---vendor locator
I just did a check for myself and it says that the closest location to my house is 41 miles away. I know for a fact I bought the all metal for myself and you at a Auto Paint Business less than 10 miles from my house.

 

[Hickfied]

Thanks for the info... I found a place to buy online

http://www.autobodysupply.net/store...=168&usg=9D4F9219-9F58-43B4-9B48-89E87584669B

J/W, how much did y'all use for the entire engine bay?

 

[Ozz]

Dave,
You know what you’re posting is Distributors Information, not where the closest business is that sells the all metal when you post this site.
http://www.uschem.com/distributor/index.html <---vendor locator
I just did a check for myself and it says that the closest location to my house is 41 miles away. I know for a fact I bought the all metal for myself and you at a Auto Paint Business less than 10 miles from my house.

I didn't say it was the only place to get it, only that it tells you where you CAN. That's how I found a place downtown in my city when I redid my bay. Some place I never heard of, so I can only imagine that like me, other people don't know off-hand the full inventory of stores and supply shops in their area.

J/W, how much did y'all use for the entire engine bay?

Less than the small container (quart or pint? I can't remember) for me, I did a few layers and lots of sanding. I only did these areas and the top of the frame that's right at the bottom of the pic:

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

I didn't say it was the only place to get it, only that it tells you where you CAN. That's how I found a place downtown in my city when I redid my bay. Some place I never heard of, so I can only imagine that like me, other people don't know off-hand the full inventory of stores and supply shops in their area.

I didn't say that you said it was the "only place" you CAN get the all metal all I said was that the site you listed was for Distributors Information and not a complete list of all locations that's what I saying!

 

[Ozz]

Still helps more than nothing, who's to say that locator didn't show him a place 2 minutes down the road?

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

I’ve always found that your best source of information has always been from my friends and who they have dealt with in the past. They will tell you who carries the best products and where to get them.

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Still helps more than nothing, who's to say that locator didn't show him a place 2 minutes down the road?

I'm assuming he didn't because he said

Thanks for the info... I found a place to buy online

 

[fox racer]

Ok im finishing up my wire hiding tomorow after school, i have some q's:
1) which hole (driverside) did you guys use? theres an oval on and a round one. i used the oval one (the main harness comes out of the firewall then does a 90 degree angle, the round one is straight).
2) Did you have to lengthen the Starter cable, or Pos/Neg battery cables?
3) i dont see how the Alt wires are going to reach since the connections are so close to the connections that must be made on the starter solenoid, do those wires need lengthening?

Thanks alot guys!

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Ok im finishing up my wire hiding tomorow after school, i have some q's:
1) which hole (driverside) did you guys use? theres an oval on and a round one. i used the oval one (the main harness comes out of the firewall then does a 90 degree angle, the round one is straight).
2) Did you have to lengthen the Starter cable, or Pos/Neg battery cables?
3) i dont see how the Alt wires are going to reach since the connections are so close to the connections that must be made on the starter solenoid, do those wires need lengthening?

Thanks alot guys!

(1) Oval hole =see pics
(2) I had to lengthen the Starter Cable
(3) in my case NO I didn't have to lengthen the thosae wires.