alright so i had that huge post on the the aod or manual decision and today i got to drive my first manual and it was awesome. i really felt a lot more in control. so i was wondering about how much people have paid for their conversions,because i have my s/c and a lot of other bolt ons it is going to make the flywheel spin a lot faster and wear down a tranny easier, so what transmission should i be looking into i want to pretty much go the cheapest route possible but i dont want to have a tranny that is fried in three months
how much for manual conversion
- Thread starter zeusmoto
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Well, first i just have to say I TOLD YA SO!
Next, i wouldnt put a used trany in if you expect it to take abuse. I spent just a hair under 2k for my swap, and that's for everything from and including the flywheel back to the drive shaft, all brand spanking new. You could probably shop eBay and get some parts like the bell housing and flywheel used and cut some price down, but personally i beat the hell out of my trany so the newer the better, plus i have a warantee so it's worth the price.
Not to mention, eventually you're going to upgrade and eventually you're going to have more power, so why not get a nice trany now before that happens? Otherwise you're doing 2 trany swaps instead of one. Plus, its always better to have a stronger trany than your motor is. If you want a weak link in your drive train, it should either be your U joints in the drive shaft or the rear end, IMO.
Next, i wouldnt put a used trany in if you expect it to take abuse. I spent just a hair under 2k for my swap, and that's for everything from and including the flywheel back to the drive shaft, all brand spanking new. You could probably shop eBay and get some parts like the bell housing and flywheel used and cut some price down, but personally i beat the hell out of my trany so the newer the better, plus i have a warantee so it's worth the price.
Not to mention, eventually you're going to upgrade and eventually you're going to have more power, so why not get a nice trany now before that happens? Otherwise you're doing 2 trany swaps instead of one. Plus, its always better to have a stronger trany than your motor is. If you want a weak link in your drive train, it should either be your U joints in the drive shaft or the rear end, IMO.
jaketuff
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Search out for Tremec and TKO.
With the SC the stock T-5 should have a tough time keeping pace and should likely head south prematurely.
How much torque are you putting down?
OUT
With the SC the stock T-5 should have a tough time keeping pace and should likely head south prematurely.
How much torque are you putting down?
OUT
Yea i did the work myself. It's honestly not very hard, it's just intimidating for the first time. As for that tq number, just forget about a stock T5 unless you wanna be rebuilding them every weekend....lol
I'm sure someone'll chime in saying they're running more power through a stocker, but they're going to blow eventually. With that much power i'd blow my 3550 in time...
I'm sure someone'll chime in saying they're running more power through a stocker, but they're going to blow eventually. With that much power i'd blow my 3550 in time...
I called over a dozen shops before I realized how easy it is and only two would even consider touching it, and they wanted well over $500. I did the whole swap myself (with the help of my buddy and his lift and air tools 
) for a shade over $300.
Ash
) for a shade over $300. Ash
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