Engine How Much Hp Can The 5.0 Block Handle?

[burtle1]

I'm getting ready to buy a 1995 5.0 5 speed.

I will be building this car from the ground up. Long term goal is to have it in magazines.

Running 9's in 1/4 is another goal.


I was wanting to bore and stroke the 5.0 into a 347 stroker.

I had a guy tell me that the 5.0 block can and will not handle over 400 HP. Is this true?

I've also had another say it could handle up to 600 HP..Just looking for some advice !

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I've always heard the magic number is around 500 HP, but you also have to take things into consideration like what RPM it'll be turning, whether its a zero balance, vs 28 or 50oz, etc. There's really no wrong answer, it's just somewhere in that neighborhood. There's been people that put far more than that through them and had them survive, and guys who have broken them with bolt-ons.

 

[burtle1]

should I use the 5.0 block or get a 4.6 block ? In your opinion....

I really would love to see 500-600 hp time i get done. It will go to the track maybe 3 times a year. If I could get it to run 9-10 seconds I'd be happy

 

[reldla1996]

I'd stay 5.0, it's got a bigger bore, and the engine is not as wide, making it easier to work on certain things, like headers.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

What is the best deal for an after market block for a 500+ Hp motor? Also, is a stud girdle a good idea
, and which is best for a 347?

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Just go 351 windsor if you're worried about breaking the 5.0 block. I've seen 351's handle almost 700 HP

 

[Noobz347]

should I use the 5.0 block or get a 4.6 block ? In your opinion....

I really would love to see 500-600 hp time i get done. It will go to the track maybe 3 times a year. If I could get it to run 9-10 seconds I'd be happy

Huh... Never heard that before.

What's your budget? Say for instance, you have $10,000 lying around... Then your goal will be pretty simple to get to. If not, it will be more difficult... If you're delivering pizza and this is your only car, it will be VERY difficult and will take a long time.

So tell us roughly what you had in mind for time table and budget and you'll get more usable responses. At this point, it's really not about what a block will take. It's about what you're able to put inside of, on-top of, and in support of that block to get to 500+ HP.

We haven't even begun to talk about all the other mods that are necessary to keep that kind of HP from ripping the drive train and suspension out from under it.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

The hard truth.....

Stick with the 5.0L block. Stroke it, build it, drive it and don't worry about power goals Quite honestly (and please don't take this the wrong way), if you have to ask this question, you probably haven't the knowledge or skill to build a car that'll make 500hp, or run 9's in the quarter mile.....and probably most certainly don't have the bank roll.

9/10 of these dream aspirations never seem to get off the ground and people either come to their sense before they start (or shortly into the build) or ending up with a half finished project that they need to dump at a loss. It'll be easier for you to shoot for realistic power levels and concentrate on the quality of the project, than it will to reach some far fetched aspiration, just to get the car into a magazine.

 

[Noobz347]

Checkout the link:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/search/1410531/?q=build&o=date&c[title_only]=1&c[node]=20

 

[burtle1]

i have 3,000 sitting around at the moment. Now, I DO NOT expect to get this car done soon. If it takes a few years, which it maight, that's okay. I do NOT know how to build engines. my dad will be the one doing that. I told him what I was wanting to do and he told me to get the car do everything I want to do it and we would do the engine/tranny last. I pretty much want a fast show car.

I will powder coat the frame, all new suspension, rear end gears, axles etc etc..the whole nine yards. Starting with the frame and working my way up.

If I could see 9-10 seconds all said and done that'd be awesome! Its always been a dream to own a 9-10 second car. I am in no hurry.
I will be doing all of the body work, paint, prep and inside work myself. I do not know much about engines/transmissions at all. That's where my dad comes into play. He can build them. But he never wants to guess the numbers. He always says get what you want, put it together and you'll find out what is has in it . I guess that's what I'll have to do. I'm torn on exactly what to do.

I know i'll have the 5.0 block bored. I'll buy the Scat 347 stroker kit. As far as heads, intake, and cam I still don't know which to go with.
I know the trick flow heads are supposed to be the best, but then again I heard they were 2,000. So if anyone can chip in on heads, intake, and cam that'd be great. I do know I'll need the rpms under 5,000 so I don't bust the block! (still doing research)

 

[burtle1]

this is what I'll do. I guess I am getting ahead of myself.


first, strip the car down to the frame.
Have it sanded blasted/powder coated (orange )
buy a complete suspension kit for it (UPR I'm thinking) shocks, struts, springs, everything suspension wise
Change out the axles/gears in the rear end and have braces built by the local drag racing shop/engine builders.
change out the brake system
new drive shaft (Could probably just use the stock one though)
rims/tires.


Start with the shell then
sand and fix all body work
put in a roll cage *will have to have drag shop do some of this*
have my paint guy mix up a special orange for me that no one else has
will be using PPG paint/clear.
paint the whole car
assemble the car and putting it back on the frame.

then i'll start worrying about the motor/transmission.


so if you guys wanna throw out some advice or ideas I am OPEN TO HEARING THEM on any of my ideas!!! Thanks

 

[a91what]

Well if you only have 3,000 that will cover what your doing paint wise.... The suspension will cost an arm and a leg, interior and body work well that 3,000 is gone really fast.
For The engine a 331 will hold together longer than a 347... or start with a 351 and stroke to a 408 then add a h/c/i combo.
Buying a head cam intake combo will ensure you get the most for your money without all the guess work.
AFR 205cc ( $1800 ), BBK R intake ( $700 ), Ed Curtis cam. Plus all the other stuff ( injectors, fuel rails, fuel pump, dizzy, ect. ect. ) then having all that tuned..... You need deeper pockets my friend.

 

[burtle1]

I understand it will be VERY expensive. Like I said..if this takes two years its ok.

Just trying to get a plan down! If I write down start to finish it'll be easier to actually do it! Know what I mean ?

instead of jumping around doing this and that and changing this and that.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

this is what I'll do. I guess I am getting ahead of myself.


first, strip the car down to the frame.
Have it sanded blasted/powder coated (orange )
buy a complete suspension kit for it (UPR I'm thinking) shocks, struts, springs, everything suspension wise
Change out the axles/gears in the rear end and have braces built by the local drag racing shop/engine builders.
change out the brake system
new drive shaft (Could probably just use the stock one though)
rims/tires.


Start with the shell then
sand and fix all body work
put in a roll cage *will have to have drag shop do some of this*
have my paint guy mix up a special orange for me that no one else has
will be using PPG paint/clear.
paint the whole car
assemble the car and putting it back on the frame.

then i'll start worrying about the motor/transmission.


so if you guys wanna throw out some advice or ideas I am OPEN TO HEARING THEM on any of my ideas!!! Thanks

FYI, Mustangs are unibody. The body is the frame. So there is no taking the body off the frame and then putting it back on.

 

[a91what]

Start here strip the car, Then suspension, then paint, then interior, then engine drivetrain. The above is true fox's are unibody you need to do more research, subframes are a must, with control arms and disk brake conversion.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Suspension isn't really that expensive. I mean it CAN be. But I spent a little over $500 on new 10 way adjustable struts, 10 way adjustable rear shocks, and tubular upper and lower control arms. And then it's gonna be about another $200 for coil over kit for the front. So you can put together a good suspension set up for under a grand.


The engine and transmission is where you'll be sinking a lot of money. You definitely need to set a goal, a REACHABLE goal, and build toward there. Match your parts up to work in correlation with one another. Don't go to YouTube, find a cam that "sounds nice" and build a whole set up around that cam (I say this because I've seen many people do this)

 

[Noobz347]

I'm getting ready to buy a 1995 5.0 5 speed.

I will be building this car from the ground up. Long term goal is to have it in magazines.

Running 9's in 1/4 is another goal.


I was wanting to bore and stroke the 5.0 into a 347 stroker.

I had a guy tell me that the 5.0 block can and will not handle over 400 HP. Is this true?

I've also had another say it could handle up to 600 HP..Just looking for some advice !

Thread deletion request rejected. There's some good stuff in here and it might help you come up with a reasonable plan that will make it run like a raped ape.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

i have 3,000 sitting around at the moment.

You're about 1/10 of the way there....and that's assuming you do most of the work yourself! Understand....not only will this venture take a lot of time, but the cash outlay will be tremendous. Anyone can stuff a pile of power into a car and make it fast for a pass or two, but if you want it to hold together and remain streetable, you're going to have to really think this one through.

You not only have to contend with paint, the suspension and the powertrain, but the drivetrain, chassis, fuel system and ignition components as well. These have all got to be upgraded to attain and maintain those power levels.

Before you spend any money on this car, do yourself a favour and find someone who's got a legitimate 12-second, or 11-second car and have them take you for a ride. It seems to me like you're in love with a dream, without really grasping the reality of what's involved. An 11-second car is 650hp GT500 territory and faster than 99% of the factory built cars today. That being said, it would cost you half as much to build an 11-second car as it would a 9-second car.

I'm not trying to pee in your pool here, but what I'm saying is you might be perfectly content with a more attainable goal, that won't kill your wallet, but will still plaster that grin across your face.

The last thing you want to do is run out of money, time, patience, etc and end up with a half finished project that you could have been driving for the last two years, instead of fruitlessly spending time and money on only not to reach your goal.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

"There's some good stuff in here and it might help you come up with a reasonable plan that will make it run like a raped ape."

How well does a violated primate run? Or does it curl up and hide? I'd be thrilled if the car ran as well as a Shelby GT500! While I'm being a goof - the only thing Dizzy about the DISTRIBUTOR is you if you stare at the spinning rotor or take a ride on it.

So seriously - If I make my build up based on a 351 block, what does it take to make a 351/408 fit in a Fox body ? Headers, lower intake for the ported GT-40/Explorer upper? What about the distributor? What about the pulleys and accessoriy brackets? A different smog pipe for the air pump at the back of the heads? What else? No matter which block, at the same Hp level, the bigger injectors, MAF, fuel pump and TB/EGR plate should be the same amount of upgrade cost.

Assuming I already have the performance parts for the shorter height 302 block and have to now replace all that stuff, are we getting close to the cost of an aftermarket block yet? Also, how much harder is it to change spark plugs and check the header bolts?

Lastly, what year did they start using roller cams in the 351?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

"There's some good stuff in here and it might help you come up with a reasonable plan that will make it run like a raped ape."

How well does a violated primate run? Or does it curl up and hide? I'd be thrilled if the car ran as well as a Shelby GT500! While I'm being a goof - the only thing Dizzy about the DISTRIBUTOR is you if you stare at the spinning rotor or take a ride on it.

So seriously - If I make my build up based on a 351 block, what does it take to make a 351/408 fit in a Fox body ? Headers, lower intake for the ported GT-40/Explorer upper? What about the distributor? What about the pulleys and accessoriy brackets? A different smog pipe for the air pump at the back of the heads? What else? No matter which block, at the same Hp level, the bigger injectors, MAF, fuel pump and TB/EGR plate should be the same amount of upgrade cost.

Assuming I already have the performance parts for the shorter height 302 block and have to now replace all that stuff, are we getting close to the cost of an aftermarket block yet? Also, how much harder is it to change spark plugs and check the header bolts?

Lastly, what year did they start using roller cams in the 351?

The best advice I can give you regarding this reply is use the search function. Do multiple searches on this forum. You're all over the place with questions that have been asked and answered 100-times.

It's tough to send you in the right direction on a 9 or 10 second build when you don't even have the basics nailed down yet.