How Much $ Would It Take To Make A Sn95 Outperform A New 5.0?

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Bubba Gump, Aug 12, 2013.

  1. I am having a bit of a dilemma on what to purchase for my first mustang. I previously created another thread about this and the replies I got helped me narrow it down to what I am really wondering.

    Assuming I buy a completely stock SN-95 GT, how much is it going to cost to have it perform as well as a stock new 5.0 and be reliable? Assume I am doing all the work myself so no labor costs are involved just parts.
  2. I've spent about $18-20K on my entire investment. That includes car and mods. Granted, I bought a super clean 50K mile 02 GT, I had the engine rebuilt with forged internals, the heads completely rebuilt with top-of-the-line valvetrain with a stage 3 port/5-angle valve job/etc, bought a complete supercharger kit (used), upgraded the fuel systems, complete full bolt-ons including full exhaust and whatnot.

    Im running 500+rwhp in a 6000+ DA on 91 octane on a canned tune. There is HUGE room for improvement with a proper dyno tune.

    All said and done, I'll be running low 10's for just the same amount of money a used bone stock 5.0 costs.....
  3. Night fire thats awesome but I'm not sure how that answers the original posters question.

    What's the power difference and 0-60 and 1/4 mile time differences between the two models in question?
  4. Just a comment: the SN-95 is never going to be reliable as a new mustang, even bone stock. These cars are getting older and have more and more miles. A well maintained SN95 certainly won't be unreliable (my GT hasn't been towed in the 10+ years and 175k I've owned it, but limped home many times), but it won't match a brand newer, more modern car. Plus, you'll get a safer car, traction control, less NHVs, ect ect. Just something to think about.

    I would think you'll need at least 350 rwhp and some descent traction to beat a stock coyote. So a blower on a stock bottom end and tires should get you there for around 4-6k.

    Or, fight fire with fire... a coyote crate engine runs 6k, add on the control pack and have fun. The major issue in my mind is the loss of the instrument cluster, which is controlled by your current computer.
  5. My car already Rapes a '11-'13 mustang GT like its nothing. 407hp/420tq. 2.1 Kenne Bell Innercooled 11psi
  6. Really? I thought it answered the OP's question perfectly. I stated the amount of money I've invested in the car and along with the fact that I would rape one (even moreso than Handz lol). Is it that difficult to comprehend?
  7. Driver mod, weight reduction, and one hellafied suspension.
  8. And what are you going to do to make up the other full second difference in the quarter of a mile between the two? :D
    sneaky98gt likes this.
  9. i dunno...I'd still think I'd rather have a new 5.0 over a modified SN95.

    Who can get to the next stoplight first just isn't as important to me these days. A stock 412HP new car with warranty? sign me up
    trombonedemon likes this.
  10. Another good thing about buying a new car is the fact that you are the only one that has driven the car, and you basically start with a fresh slate. With a used GT you have no clue whats been done to it unless the thing is completely stock. Which there are a lot of stock ones out there that could be great cars to build but there are also a lot of GT's that have had a rough life and not so sensible owners that you should avoid.

    Personally I would build my GT to beat the new 5.0's because there aren't a lot of "fast" new edge stangs around here so that would add to the coolness in my opinion. Plus it depends if you are the kind of person that loves to build and work on your car to make it faster vs buying something new that's already faster. Either way is going to expensive in this hobby and you should never expect to get much of your money back with cars, now with guns that can be a different story lol.
  11. If it's all about straight line speed, then sure go ahead and build the old warhorse, but lets not fool ourselves into thinking a couple thousand dollars spend under the hood is going to get you into the "just as good" range as a new Mustang. Even if you end up faster, you're still a loooooong way from "beating" a new GT.
    You've still got handling, braking, comfort, ride, ergonomics, fit and finish, interior quality, options, emissions, fuel mileage, etc rolled up into one package that you couldn't even dream of duplicating with an old Mustang.

    The outlook some of these guys have makes me laugh. They think....hey, all I've got to do is add this much power and my 25-year-old Fox body will be just as good as a brand new Mustang GT. Why would I ever spend 30K on a brand new car when I've only got to be a couple of grand into mine? These guys are so lost they couldn't find their own ass with both hands and a map IMO!

    Reminds me of the old Modified SN95 GT vs. '03-'04 Cobra debates from a few years back. Adding power only duplicates one aspect of the what are you gonna do to surpass the rest?
    Mustang5L5 likes this.
  12. Hey dont hate, not everyone loves the butt ugly 05-09 mustangs and most dont like the backends on the 11-14. Never been a big fan of the retro style myself. BTW im sure most people dont want to have a 350-500 dollar a month car payment again and YES you can build a sn95 that can crush a new 5.0 in both speed and handling if you do all the work yourself (sub 10k).
    trombonedemon likes this.
  13. Cool, but what do you do about the , braking, comfort, ride, ergonomics, fit and finish, interior quality, options, emissions, fuel mileage and other points I outlined?

    You can only claim superiority if you surpass all of the high points of the car. Speed and handling are only two, very small parts that make up an excellent car as a whole.

    Nothing wrong with pointing them out, as long as the other points are recognized and brought to light when making a comparison between the two as well.
  14. if the only tool you know how to use is a credit card then buy a new car...if you like to play with cars then buy an older one and work on it...

    I am so sick of many here that always answering the question with "buy xxx instead of modifying"...sigh, I guess it is just another part of our instant gratification world :-/
  15. Bahh, that's a cop out answer. There's a massive aftermarket for the newer stuff....far more so than there was when our Fox bodies were new. And not every guy buying a newer mustang is a poser, or doesn't like to "play" with cars. Some people are just sick and tired of working on old junk and would rather modify and/or enjoy their car than be continuously repairing them....which is an inherit trait of all older vehicles.

    When I hear a guy unjustly trash the newer stuff, or their owners the way some do, right off the bat it throws up flags for me. The more likely reason for their rant is that they haven't got the means or the skill set to purchase, or work on the newer stuff themselves, nor have they the stones to admit as much.

    I mean....c'mon, realistically....which one of us wouldn't want to be driving around in a brand new GT if we had the means, or could trade in our old ride at face value? I'd set my heap on fire right in the dealership parking lot if it mean I was driving a way with a brand new Premium GT.....and my car has no problem wrecking a Coyote powered S197 in a straight line.
    #15 Gearbanger 101, Aug 20, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013
  16. Ive test driven the new 5.0's. My first reaction is the suspension is not worlds beyond the old setup modded. Engine was free revin' b/ c of the 4 valve. Its still 365 hps without tune, must dyno tune due to the dead cylinder canned tune issue. My cars suspension was as responsive modded as new setups. Still a cool car, as a car guy my opinion is buy the Coyote if you are not taking 4-5 grand loss in your SN-95. P.S. The leather interior was freakin' sick.
  17. Im wandering what had to be done to the Yotes' to void the warranty.
  18. lol really? Not everyone with a new car writes a check and has other people do the work.

    The new cars are a much better platform but they are heavy and expensive. Newer cars are also a lot more convenient and easy to work on, compared to the new edge cars. It'll take a basic forced induction setup on the sn95 to keep up with a stock 5.0.
  19. Just to clarify for perspective sake.

    A fully optioned Fox body LX/GT's curb weight is around 3,250lbs.
    A similarly optioned SN95 GT is around 3,350lbs
    A similarly optioned '2011-up GT is right around 3,550.

    The only ones who are really getting away with any significant weight savings here are the coupes and the no optioned factory stripped models.

    Now...start tacking on big brakes, suspension goodies, chassis stiffening components, etc to the Fox body and SN95's and realize that these three cars aren't really that far apart as far as weight goes. At least not to the extent that is going to make any real difference on the street. A 100-150lbs isn't going to allow an inferiorly built 30+ year old chassis and suspension to compete with a modern S197 and it sure as heck isn't going to make up for the 180hp+ power deficiency.

    You gotta sink parts into that old horse if you want it to compete....and that's strictly from a performance aspect.
    trombonedemon likes this.
  20. Yea there is no way around spending cash, but the ultimate deciding factor is if one wants a car payment monthly or decide to freewill performance parts. Im not sure about the rest of you but I hate being forced to pay money.