How To Bend Tubing With The Cheap Hf Bender.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by hoopty5.0, Jun 30, 2013.

  1. Anyone following my build saw that I "mocked" up a tubular front end for my car with iron pipe and am now about to embark on revising it with DOM tubing. However, tubing doesn't bend well in a regular hydraulic bender - it basically kinks at the apex of the bend. Below is a youtube link to a guy who seems to have found a cheap if not free solution to bend tubing with a $100 bender:


    Im in the garage now about to modify mine (I have the same one he does) and can/will report back here if anyone is interested with my results.
  2. Well, a little over an hour later, I wasted ~$25 worth of tubing since it creased and kinked. The wasted piece is long enough for me to try and make another bend with it. I think rollers may have been too close together. I hate that this is an expensive learning curve :nonono:
  3. ncdc.jpg




    Back to the drawing board...
  4. Dude! Do not kill another piece of DOM using that bender. I cannot see how the long side radius will not collapse w/o the support a true mandrel bender will afford you. I always wondered about how that thing worked,..and for awhile was p issed that I spent so much for my tubing bender when I saw that thing at HF.

    Not anymore.

  5. No,...I've had it for several years now. Has interchangeable dies, that can be purchased in different radius's, w/ a long assed handle and a a ratchet bar that you have to preposition as you move the bend to the final outcome.

    It looks like this:

    I think you can buy a similar piece from Summit under the brand name woodward fab (aka Chinee)
  6. There is a trick from my days as an A&P aircraft mechanic - fill the tube completely full with fine sand and then cap the ends so the sand can't get out. Then use some heat if at all possible on the bend area. The sand helps to prevent the tubing from collapsing when it is bent.
  7. Are you using those 'sleeves' that the guy is using between the collar bolt and tubing? He is also using the sleeves between the tubing and rollers. Your second pic is showing the collar bolt directly in contact with the tubing.
  8. I saw that trick too, and the guy who tried it didnt have good luck. I really would rather just buy what Mike has above, I've been eyeing one for a looong time.

    He said all that did was keep the bolt from making a divot in the top.

    I am going to look at the one that Mike has. I have some other projects that I'd use it for, it wouldnt be a one time use thing... Maybe he'd consider selling his if he doesn't use it anymore.
  9. At 2:10 He said "so the tube effectively remains locked in place and the tube won't buckle at the top"
  10. You want to use a bender that has a die on both the inside & outside to avoid wrinkling 41tM8plQrHL-1.jpg
  11. I don't have the bandwidth to view pictures so I can't see what your working with. My father had a chasis shop for a few years and had to go with the inner and outer die style bender. Even with polishing the dies out, he would have to lather the tube with wd-40 to ensure it did not kink or gouge. He sprayed and I received the honor of moving the 6 foot extension as he enured the bend was exactly what he needed. Fun times. The below bender is basically the same style.

  12. Yeah, I think you'll be better in the end,...especially if you look around. I can't remember the name of my bender,..but it's just like a JD2 at about half the cost. And even like RD described,..the dies are prone to damage as a result of the process..(mine has instructions that mandate only lubing the mandrel,..not the die).

    It's "required" when you decide to build a rear passenger "face brake" like the ones I had in the red car.