Heres my question, I have a 67 mustang coupe and was wondering what I would need to do to make it run 10's and still be able to occasionally street driven? I would like to stay away from supercharging but wouldnt mind using nitrous. The trans would have to be a c6 (because I have one). Anything else is up to you guys. Thanks!
How to get a 67 coupe into the 10's?
- Thread starter hummer784
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hummer784 said:
Wel, the question is...how much do you want to spend?
408 stroker with a healthy cam, good aluminum heads, a 250 shot of nitrous
BUILT C6 with a 3000 stall
4.11 or steeper in the rear
drag radials
some weight reduction
caltracs and monoleafs...
easy 10s
dodgestang
Active Member
hummer784 said:
You need to start with the body to run 10s.
Subframe connectors and 4 point roll bar minimum I think if you get into the tens you need a full cage though so after you put that in, subframes are a little extraneous and off course full harnesses.
Then you need to worry about traction....a conversion to a 4 link would prob be the most benefitial with some tubbing done in the rear to run a 12 or wider slick...street slick, etc....doesn't matter how much power you have if you just sit there and spin the tires. Some lower budget tricks are to run cal tracs or underirders. etc.
c6 tranny is a poor choice in my opinion. It will suck the most power and offers no benefits since it is soooo heavy. A nice race ready c4, or toploader is your best bet since to get to 10s you need all the power you can get effectively going from the motor to the ground.
Since you say you want to drive this on the street you will also need to upgrade your brakes since we all know you will occasionally need to stop all the power in a hurry.
Then comes the suspension....if you don't do a 4 link, then you need some leafs that will help in weight transfer....I have seen a few guys with fiberglass leaf setups that seem to run good....
Notice how I haven't even mention motor yet..........
Before I type anymore lets start with the most basic....what is your budget?
Can't get to the 10s without a wheel barrow of money.
I havent figured out a budget yet...this is my second car an di honestly hadnt set a limit. I want to stay with an automatic trans and I dont know about the c6 being a bad trans, i have never heard anythig bad about it plus it is almost bullet proof with out any modifications. I have been thinking about this for a while and figured that the car will be gutted and an 8 or 10pt cage put in. I have been looking at ladder bars and 4 link setups but dont know what would be better. Thanks for all of the help so far!
You guys forgot about a lot of stuff... like strengh, just a little important...
Firstly, you can do this with any engine with a reasonable cost if its between 289-460.
Now when you choose your eninge(i would stay away from Cleveland; good engine, but parts are hard to find forged) you must buy forged everything. Forged crank, pistons, rods, even a block! and you DEFINITLY want 4-bolt mains. now you want to get around 800-900hp, which screams blower, OR a SUPER big shot of N20- and still you need top of hte line intake,carbs, heads, headers, ect..
now with all this motor you need a good tranny; TOPLOADER! the best damn tranny EVER tough as nails and won't stop. (plus its a 4 speed)
For the rear end you want a fairly highgear ratio. 3.73-4.11 (if you still need it for street)
As for the frame you want to find a GOOD drag race setup (but still legal) and you also want it nice and beefy. You want a nice roll bar and harness too, also good brakes and some street slicks (these tires are HORRIBLE on snow, ice, raim, and anything else under the sun that isn't dry pavment) and tubs.
With all this you still have to rightfully set up your interior.
Firstly, you can do this with any engine with a reasonable cost if its between 289-460.
Now when you choose your eninge(i would stay away from Cleveland; good engine, but parts are hard to find forged) you must buy forged everything. Forged crank, pistons, rods, even a block! and you DEFINITLY want 4-bolt mains. now you want to get around 800-900hp, which screams blower, OR a SUPER big shot of N20- and still you need top of hte line intake,carbs, heads, headers, ect..
now with all this motor you need a good tranny; TOPLOADER! the best damn tranny EVER tough as nails and won't stop. (plus its a 4 speed)
For the rear end you want a fairly highgear ratio. 3.73-4.11 (if you still need it for street)
As for the frame you want to find a GOOD drag race setup (but still legal) and you also want it nice and beefy. You want a nice roll bar and harness too, also good brakes and some street slicks (these tires are HORRIBLE on snow, ice, raim, and anything else under the sun that isn't dry pavment) and tubs.
With all this you still have to rightfully set up your interior.
12sec67
Active Member
i'm with none67, 4spd top loader! 4.11 gears and a real tight drag set up.
you could always get a newer ford lightning motor/trans with a few mods and dump into a 67... than could run 10's easy if you can get it to hook up-still have overdrive and be reliable
thats my dream
you could always get a newer ford lightning motor/trans with a few mods and dump into a 67... than could run 10's easy if you can get it to hook up-still have overdrive and be reliable
thats my dream
A buddy of mine bought a new Lightning, then dropped about 6 grand on mods. Most of them were from JDM and he got his truck so hyped up he could barely drive it. It broke tires loose at 50mph if you weren't careful. he sold it one day after getting sideways while being careful.12sec67 said:i'm with none67, 4spd top loader! 4.11 gears and a real tight drag set up.
you could always get a newer ford lightning motor/trans with a few mods and dump into a 67... than could run 10's easy if you can get it to hook up-still have overdrive and be reliable
thats my dream
dodgestang
Active Member
hummer784 said:
In a 3200 pound car in a perfect traction world approx 575 Rear Wheel Horsepower will get you into the 10s.
What that means is accounting for parasidic loss and the fact you don't have perfect traction or conditions, you need to build a 700+ flywheel motor.
The 3200 is approximation based on mustang curb weights, driver weight, roll bar wieght and then all the crap you will take off to save weight...I could be high...I know someone with a 69 mach one tat claims he is at 2950 with the driver.
6Stang7
New Member
I would get a ladder on a 2 bolt mains set up over just a 4 bolt mains set up. Not only does the ladder set up on 2 bolt mains give better strenght over just a 4 bolt mains set up, but it also prevents the block from twisting at high RPM's. You're going to need a built 9" with 4.11's or bigger, and some type of posi set up (I would get a detroit locker). You're also going to need to look into the correct suspenion set up. In DR, having the right suspension is extremly important. However, I have no idea on what to recommend. Everyone else has given good points on the motor, and you're set on using an auto, so that is taken care of. All that's left is the proper safty stuff, which has been explained.
-Shaun
-Shaun
for a motor, a stroked 460 with some Blue Thunder heads would get you going right in the right direction. Easy to make 500+ hoorsepower without much strain, then add your nitrous. As for the tranny, the C4 is lighter than the C6, and can be made to be fairly reliable, but the C6 will work. Other things to be considered: if you are taking it to a local drag strip... what are there requirements?? what type of cage, external kill switch, and all those other things...
67bluestang
New Member
hummer784 said:
1. MONEY
2. Put it on a diet
3. Good rearend
4. 3500-4000 stall convertor
5. Big block
6. MONEY
7. Roll cage
8. Safety equipment
9. Slicks
10. MONEY
for your purpose i would recomend a healthy 460. 600 hp would get the car into the 10's, and not strain the engine, even a 2 bolt block. for gears, i would recmoend something between 3.89 and 4.30, experiment with something in that range depending on track conditions.
bud4660
Founding Member
I like the money answers here. I would guess to start from scratch you need to put about 15-20k in it to start with. The motor is where most of the money in the drivetrain is going to go. A built tranny with converter is going to be about $3,500. The rearend is going to take about $2,500+ depending on what size spline and carrier your going to go with. And the rest will go in cage work and tubs and the chassis. I am working on building a 67 fastback to run in the mid 9's now. I am guessing by the time I am done to have 25-30k invested to start with. The motor looks like its going to take 10-15k alone.
So it comes down to how fast do you want to go??
Go with a good small block with lots of juice. Its the cheapest way out.
So it comes down to how fast do you want to go??
Go with a good small block with lots of juice. Its the cheapest way out.
classic boost
Founding Member
hummer784 said:
in a 3200lb car and traction, 420rwhp (~500flywheel) will get you in the 10's.
it's not that hard to run 10's. i ran 10.79 at 3600lbs with 500rwhp. 400lb difference saves alot of hp. my friend runs 10.9x@123 3200lbs. stock block and crank 351w, tw heads, vic jr intake, and a solid flat tappet cam. dynoed 488hp on an engine dyno.
people on this thread are throwing around way too much money.
just build a stock block and crank 351w with good rods, big cam and a 150 shot.
