I dont know what to do! HELP!

[FiveOoutlaw]

I recently got rid of my heater core and the lines that run to the firewall in my speed density lx because of a leaky core. I capped the water pump and moved the temp sensor to the lower intake. All was going well until I started it up and the idle will not come down from 1500, I unplug the sensor and the idle drops back to 800 like normal. But when unplugged it runs like its always cold, running really lean with backfires out of the intake and missing alot.

I tried a new sensor hoping it was a bad one, no luck. PLEASE HELP!!

 

[Daggar]

What sensor are you referring to? the ACT?

 

[FiveOoutlaw]

When I unplug the temp sensor the idle drops back down, thats why i thought it was a faulty one.

 

[FiveOoutlaw]

bump

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

What sensor are you referring to? the ACT?

what he said, the one on the coolant rail?

 

[FiveOoutlaw]

yes, it has now been relocated to the lower manifold

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

here is what i did, (i didn't run an EGR spacer so i had to cut my coolant rail)

cut the coolant rail about half way down so you can still put that sensor in, then just "loop" a hose around to connect the two ends.

thats not exaclty what i did cause i NEED my heater core up here for the chilly mornings, i just cut mine and ran to rubber hoses to the fire wall.

cause i think the sensor is getting a false reading from the lower intake

just a thought

 

[FiveOoutlaw]

the problem with that is that i no longer have the lines to the firewall, and i know people have put this sensor here and its been fine for them, but i'm just another story

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

ok..... what i am trying to say is, put those steel lines back on and cut them just after where the sensor is, so you can still put that sensor in. then take a peice of coolant rubber hose and "loop" a hose so it bypasses the heater core, this way the sensor is stil in the same spot. i have seen guys not cut it and just loop it around the back of the motor. i cut mine so i could use my TB with no EGR spacer

here is a half assed scetch i made

View attachment 514427