I Know What It Is But How Do I Get Rid If It

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Marty4104, Feb 18, 2017.

  1. Om so I got a 98 gt about a week ago. It has one of them fuel maxx things wired in to what appears to be the ait sensor on the intake piping.

    How do I get rid of it. 20170218_124349.jpg
    RaggedGT likes this.
  2. IMG_1400.JPG

    Open up the tab on the blue splice connector. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the little metal blade out-remove the wires from that max thing-remove the blue connector and tape up the little cuts in the wiring
  3. Thanks. I got it, I could smell it running rich at idle and then found this. All is well now lol
    RaggedGT likes this.
  4. Please do not use tape. If you can't get the pins out of the plug in order to put shrink tube over the wire then clean the wires and coat those areas with clear silicon.

    Tape in the engine bay is like tits on a boar hog... Useless.
  5. Ever use this stuff?
    Noobz347 likes this.
  6. The only thing that I don't like about the black stuff is that you can't see if it's corroding underneath.
    RaggedGT likes this.
  7. Hmmm.. hadn't thought of that....
  8. How do you see if it's corroding underneath heat shrink or butt connectors? The black stuff is actually better than even those because it's more of a moisture seal also.
  9. I'm not sure what makes you think that black silicon is a better moisture barrier than any other. Silicon sealants are generally categorized into temperature range and chemical resistance. From the Permatex Website:

    I don't use butt connectors and if heat shrink is installed correctly, it's water and fuel tight. I've removed shrink from aircraft that were built before I was born, revealing wire that is as shiny the day it was produced.
  10. You have a couple of things going on that make me believe the liquid tape would be better for the average backyard mech. The first thing in this case is that the wires don't appear to have been severed. The type of connector he's working with only really cuts through the insulation more or less. So you shouldn't be dealing with a soldered connection etc. Heatshrink wouldn't work unless you had pretty small blade and were able to get them out of the connector down stream. You might be working with aircraft grade heat shrink, but not everyone has that. A lot of times the cheaper heat shrinks don't seal as well.
    To be honest, I always use decent heatshrink opposed to the liquid, but the liquid would work fine for him.
    Going back to my original question though, how would you know what corrosion is under the heat shrink without cutting it?
    Last thing... You linked to two different products for comparison to the Plastidip Liquid tape that says moisture barrier right on it.
    #10 HawkX66, Mar 20, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017

  11. Autozone has it in kits (usually). It's not special with maybe the exception of the stuff meant to be exposed to sun.
  12. Not to get into all the details of heat shrink, but there are different grades. Some are stiffer than others. Some shrink more or less depending on the job they're intended for. Either way, I still don't see how you can see corrosion under any heat shrink.