Ideal timing on stock 5.0

Dave2000GT

Active Member
Oct 3, 2005
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Seattle
I tried adding to a thread in the tuning forum about this but haven't gotten any replies yet.

What does everyone think is ideal base timing settings for a stock 5.0 ??

I have mine set 13 degrees using 89 octane.


Just wondering what other people use, btw in my opinion the 2 greatest "free" performance enhancers everyone needs to do especially to a car that is new to them is new fuel filter and advanced timing.
 
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There is no magic number. Assuming we are only using like 87 octane, one car will be able to run 15* and another will only take 12* before pinging. I'd also note that dynos have shown that there's a fall-off point in power before the onset of audible pinging. This is a reason to not necessarily run on the ragged edge of detonation.
 
There is no magic number. Assuming we are only using like 87 octane, one car will be able to run 15* and another will only take 12* before pinging. I'd also note that dynos have shown that there's a fall-off point in power before the onset of audible pinging. This is a reason to not necessarily run on the ragged edge of detonation.

Thats true cars can be different... I think 5.0's are fairly uniform compared to some. I had experience with a newer 4.6 and it had all kinds of trouble with pinging and not having much torque etc even after being tuned.

I think it's safe to say for example a number +/- 1* is fairly good estimate so I just wanted to see where other people are at.
 
I'll respectfully disagree about how uniform the 5.0's are (though I know where you are coming from - even the 94-95's with their finicky processors are less 'uniform' than fox III's. Thus Fox III's seem more relatively uniform, but still are not IMHO).

If trying to generalize:

On iron heads, you will find that many folks bump the timing to 14* on 87 octane. That's the biggest generalization I would dare to make. There are those who can run more advance (though they often have alum heads). Everything else is rolling up or down the bell curve.

Good luck with it Dave. :nice:
 
Yep i would just advance it 1 degree at a time and take it for a run. A run at a track would be best. You will see times and mph change as well as you can listen for pinging. Then do it again. Till either it makes no difference or you get a ping then back it down. Its basically what carb guys do to tune them with jets aswell. Well old school guys that don't have AFR monitoring equipment.
 
I'm running 14* on 91 octane, although I'm probably going to drop down to 89 octane and see if it still doesn't ping - premium is like $2.53/gallon, now. The car feels like a total dog at the stock 10* setting, and just bumping it up to even 12* makes a heckuva difference in not only WOT pull, but it seems to idle and cruise a tad differently, too.

Wasn't someone posting that they're running 16* on here, not too long ago...?

FWIW, a fuel filter isn't "free" mod unless someone gives you one, or unless you steal one. :D
 
I'm running 14* on 91 octane, although I'm probably going to drop down to 89 octane and see if it still doesn't ping - premium is like $2.53/gallon, now. The car feels like a total dog at the stock 10* setting, and just bumping it up to even 12* makes a heckuva difference in not only WOT pull, but it seems to idle and cruise a tad differently, too.

Wasn't someone posting that they're running 16* on here, not too long ago...?

FWIW, a fuel filter isn't "free" mod unless someone gives you one, or unless you steal one. :D

That's why I said "free" and not free. Really cheap is what I meant!

Thanks for all the responses everyone, I feel pretty safe with my setup now, one of the reasons I'm asking is because the massive holes in my mufflers make it difficult to tell for sure that it is not pinging.
 
I've heard that the factory timing pointer can be off as much as 3-5 degrees from true TDC. Im not sure, but I think Rick 91GT is the person who told me this. So if thats true you will just have to experiment. I know that when I just had a few bolt ons on my car it seemed to run best with 14 deg.
 
I've heard that the factory timing pointer can be off as much as 3-5 degrees from true TDC. Im not sure, but I think Rick 91GT is the person who told me this. So if thats true you will just have to experiment. I know that when I just had a few bolt ons on my car it seemed to run best with 14 deg.

This is the way things should be done. It doesnt matter what the timing marks say, we have to listen for detonation and adjust timing accordingly.

The first car I ever used a timing light on was the stang - before that it was done the same way I'd synch carbs - by ear. I now use a light to note relative changes (I used to compare dizzy position to my scribe in the intake) and to be able to compare to what you guys run.
 
heres a good one for ya. My new 40 over block, trick flow stage one cam with redone factgory cylinder heads will only run on 20 degrees advance. Thats according to the Matco Determinator. I tried to retard a tooth on the distributor and the engine wouldn't even sputter. I hear ideal is 10-14 though.
 
AJ, I hate to ask but I am not really familiar with your set-up and posts: You have the SPOUT connector pulled, right?

Good luck.
 
H50 yes with the spout pulled it won't run under 20 degrees. tried to retard a tooth and advance a single tooth on the distributor and it won't start either way there. If you try to go below 20 it dies