Ignition cylinder + no keys = my universal key
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*update* cleared my cookies now i see it doesnt work, there whole site is down you cant view any of there pages. and i cant attach large images here can i?
probably a dumb question, but how exactly do you hot wire an old mustang? I know its a couple wires around the solenoid and the coil???
way to many ways ud be surprised how easy it is.
i just needed to get the stupid thing out cause i had no key nor could get it out any other way so... just thought be good thing for others to use if they plan on using new ign cylinders anyways its better than trying to drill it out
i just needed to get the stupid thing out cause i had no key nor could get it out any other way so... just thought be good thing for others to use if they plan on using new ign cylinders anyways its better than trying to drill it out
Dave,
I just read a 'how to remove an ignition cylinder' article in Mustang Monthly. I thought of you but dont have a scanner to send it to you. Glad you improvised!
I just read a 'how to remove an ignition cylinder' article in Mustang Monthly. I thought of you but dont have a scanner to send it to you. Glad you improvised!
We've discussed this many times before and I am reluctant to describe the method again. The "wrong" people might use the method for the "wrong" purpose and swipe our cars. (Yes, I use a "secret" method to disable my ignition.)
That’s why if you know about vulnerabilities you take certain steps to insure they wont be exploited….
RajunCajun said:
Ultimately, if a thief wants the car badly enough, he'll get it. The best you can do is make it more difficult to swipe.
exactly that pretains to anything not just cars,
on another topic
im going to be welding in my floor pans soon and wondering whats best way to get everything down snug and down right and if i should go ahead and make my subframes or wait or what?
the ones im thinking bout making are located
here
also i dont have a trans nor engine in the car so should i add some balist via the front engine bay mounting bracket area?
on another topic
im going to be welding in my floor pans soon and wondering whats best way to get everything down snug and down right and if i should go ahead and make my subframes or wait or what?
the ones im thinking bout making are located
here
also i dont have a trans nor engine in the car so should i add some balist via the front engine bay mounting bracket area?
When I welded in my new floor pans, I cut them in so they'd have about a 1/4 inch overlap and used sheet metal screws about every 4 inches and then after welding, took all the screws out and welded up the holes the screws left. Worked like a charm for me. Some people like to butt weld the pans in, and I'd guess you'd want to if doing a concours restoration, but it didn't matter to me so I made it easy and overlapped the seams.
Also, I'd recommend only doing one floor pan at a time, especially if you've got it up on jack stands.
To each his own!
Also, I'd recommend only doing one floor pan at a time, especially if you've got it up on jack stands.
To each his own!
I'm a new member with a 66 mustang, the original owner did not have a key. I know you've explained this before but if you could help me get out the ignition cylinder without a key. I really don't want to start tearing into the speedometer if I don't have to.
Thanks
Thanks
jlg8178 said:
On a '66 you will need to have the key to get the ignition out without damaging it. The later dash mounted ignitions come out easily, but that is beside the point. If you remove a door cylinder and take it to a lock smith, they will be able to make a key for you. The doors and ignition are keyed alike (providing a previous owner hasn't changed them) and the trunk has it's own key. So if you need a trunk key as well, get your other key first then drive to the lock smith.
the "rim" around your ignition key srews off. just place a piece of cloth over it, to protect it, and use some pilers to losen it.
6Stang7 said:
Not on a 66', unless you want to scew up your dash. The bezel is "keyed" to the dash and if you turn it with pliers, you damage both the rim and the dash metal.
I like the remove the door lock idea, that is UNLESS the door locks no longer match the ignition tumbler. I've seen lots of cars that no longer match.
I found the easiest way (short of a locksmith) is to use a body slide hammer and pull the tumblers. This WILL damage the tumbler and the switch, but its got me out of a jam. The replacement parts are fairly cheap.
jlg8178 said:
Yes.
Either borrow one or buy a cheapy--mine was $3 several years ago.
As I said, it will damage the tumbler and the part of the switch that holds the tumbler in. The switch is still useable, but the new tumbler will not remain latched in it. The bezel and the metal dash will not be damaged in any way (unless you are clumsy and scratch them with the screw end of the slide hammer.) No need to disconnect the battery either.
I've done this with junker rebuilds several times in order to drive (rather than hand winch) them onto my trailer.
Once the tumbler is removed, you can remove the switch by reaching up behind the dash and simultaneously push in on it and twist it. The pushing is to collapse a heavy spring that is part of the mounting assembly and the twisting is used to unlock the switch from the tabs of the chrome bezel (the rim as stated above.) Be sure that the battery has been disconnected before removing any electrical device. Also, the easiest way to access it is by removing the gauge part of the dash. The switch will be "right there."
yes that would be the tool in question. I had door keys but saw no reason to use old locks and wasnt planning on having any holes on the exterior of the door anyways.
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