Installing Spal Dual Fan....

cjhenry01

New Member
Mar 21, 2004
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I'm going to pull out my 16" Straight Blade Chrome Spal fan and will be replacing it with the Spal Dual 11" fan. There is no need for a dccontrol unit as it's only a weekend driver. Since there are two fan connections coming from the dual fan unit I'm wondering the following:

Can I just buy a splitter, connect it to these two fan connections and then connect it to my current single Spal harness and upgrade my current Spal relay to a Bosch 75a relay?

Or

Do I have to buy another Spal harness and relay so I end up having two seperate connections for each fan?

Also, my chrome 16" Spal is for sale if anybody wants it. When I bought it one year ago brand new it was $479.99 from streetrodstuff.com
 
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It depends.
Do you want it to go from no fans to both fans?

Does each fan have two speeds and do you want to utilize each?

Do you want to use one fan in traffic and wire one to the A/C circuit for automatic fan start-up when A/C is on?

Good luck.
 
I run the dual SPAL set up. You can wire them together through one relay/toggle if you like. But I can tell you -- it's gonna REALLY hit the alternator/battery when you turn them both on -- personal experience. I experimented with all kinds of set ups -- running them together, running them separately -- on different temp switches, etc.

Then I finally wised up and bought a DC controller. Even for a cruiser I HIGHLY recommend you leave the archaic and inefficienct world of 75A relays behind and buy a variable current/speed controller. MUCH better way to run these fans.

If you choose not to, I'd at least buy 2 relays and wire them up on separate toggles. Hit one fan -- if that won't cool it then bring the other one on. That minimizes wear/tear on the electrical system.

Here's a link with some info on my DC install driving the SPAL fans...

http://www.etnracing.com/pages/Tech/FanControl.htm
 
Love to cj - but I'm out of town on business with no access to my old receipts. I bought the kit -- and I let Brian know my battery had been relocated to the trunk so the wiring he provided me had a longer hot lead to reach the battery at the back of the car. Also a filter to go between the ground/hot leads on the controller to eliminate any problems with induced voltage spikes/drops when the starter drops off the system after cranking.