Issue with power windows on 2000 Coupe

[El_shawnzo]

Hey, guys! I've used the forum without an account to find other issues before, but the issue I'm currently having has no solution on any forum I've seen yet. So here's my problem, my power windows on both the driver and passenger side do not work. In the year I've had the car, I've only gotten the driver's side to work once or twice, but the passengers side worked for a few months before it finally stopped as well. There is also a clicking sound from the relay fuse thing when I push the driver side window button only. I switched the switch with a different one and had the same results. Additionally, the power lock on the driver's side does not work. The switch works on both sides for the passenger side only. Does anyone know what's going on with it? Is there another fuse that could be causing these issues or is there another issue? Thanks in advance!

 

[wmburns]

Do you have a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) or test light and are you prepared to use it? If so some detailed test at the GEM would be needed to narrow down where the problem is.

I would also perform a through visual inspection of the wiring harness where it passed through the door jam.

Further it would help to know for certain that the windows motor actually work by powering directly from an alternate power source.

 

[El_shawnzo]

I'm not as educated at this stuff as I wish I was. I know what the GEM is, but not where (I've also read that it's what is causing the clicking sound). Could it be what's causing the power locks on the driver's side to fail, too?
I also do not have a VOM.
Additionally, how would I power the motor from an alternate power source? I've read that people use 12V batteries, but not how they did it.

 

[wmburns]

I'm not as educated at this stuff as I wish I was.

Here's your chance to learn and save some real $$ in the process.

II know what the GEM is, but not where

Behind the dash slightly left of center. Yes. It's true. It's a PIA to access.

Could it be what's causing the power locks on the driver's side to fail, too?

Yes it's possible. Water is one common reason for failed GEM modules. The other is bad or weak grounds. There is a ground behind the center console that is very important to many systems located in the dash. It is shared by the radio and is frequently messed up during a radio install.

I also do not have a VOM.

IMO without something to test an electrical circuit with the chances of fixing this are very low. It will fall to happen stance finding a wiring fault by visual inspection (not a bad idea to always perform a visual inspection in addition). Or fixing by "parts changing" and luck. I try to encourage everyone to do more testing and less part changing for diagnostic reasons.

I recommend using a test light AND VOM. I use a made test light that was not very $$. I have included some information on how to make your own if $$ is tight.

Additionally, how would I power the motor from an alternate power source? I've read that people use 12V batteries, but not how they did it.

There are several methods. Including but not limited to:

• An extra battery
• An old school battery charger. Not the new ones that protect against hooking up backwards
• a set of long fused jumpers hooked directly to the battery.
• an "add a fuse" or "add a circuit" on an "always on" exiting circuit.

How To Make Your Own Test Lights

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L_fw7xn19k

 

[El_shawnzo]

About the ground wire behind the radio, what does it look like and how is it fixed? It all started with a faulty radio, so I replaced it with an aftermarket. I guess in the process of switching them I messed something up.
Also, when everything started messing up a fuse burnt out for the dash lights. Coincidence or was that a sign for the faulty GEM?

 

[wmburns]

How about starting with a visual inspection using the "Mark I" eyeball? You already know where the radio is. The ground behind the center console is a collection of wires that come together under a single bolt. So this could be any number of wires "pulled" free or otherwise damaged.

Again if this were my car I would start with the visual inspection. Perform any repairs needed. And then TEST to CONFIRM that the grounds really are able to carry a load back to battery positive. This will take 100% of the guess work out of this.

 

[El_shawnzo]

Sorry for such a late response. I've been trying to find those ground wires you mentioned, but I'm having issues locating them.

 

[wmburns]

So you have taken the radio out and followed the separate black wires right?

Or how about taking the cluster out and just measure the quality of the ground using the methods given. Then you will KNOW for certain one way or the other.

 

[El_shawnzo]

Sorry for such a late response. I searched for the ground wires, but had no luck. But I just remembered that my radio stopped working last year until I replaced the battery terminals in February. My battery has been acting up since I got the car, but it hasn't been so bad that I needed to replace it. It'll die occasionally when it hasn't been driven in a couple of days, but jumping it off always works. Is replacing the battery a possible fix?

 

[wmburns]

Please look through the following link for information on how to test grounds using a test light.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Note, quitting for an unknown reason with restart with no apparent problems is a prime symptom of a charging system problem. Usually battery related.

"There is no elevator to success. You have to take the steps!"