Just Bought used heads, need Recommendations

jes72mustang

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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S. Central PA
I just bought a set of used heads from a local guy for my 351C. they are the 2v heads which is a direct replacement for what is on the engine now. They come bare except for the valve which I will be replacing anyway.
So here is where I need the help:

What machine work should I or do I need to get done? I was thinking decking, porting, screw-in rocker studs, and 3 angle valve job. Did I miss anything?

And what parts should I buy? what rockers, springs, valves push-rods? What else? I am planning to install headers, a cam and timing chain (maybe gears) when I do the head swap.

This will be my first head build and the mechanic that I go to has also offered to me me out and tutor me on doing the build and swap.

The car is my 72 mustang coupe (grande), 351C-v2 FMX tranny dual exhaust. Mods by PO include Performer intake and Carb, Crane fireball ignition and MSD pro billet Dizzy. I do not race! so it is a street only car, but I want it somewhat radical.

Thanks for the Help
John
 
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Sounds like you are on the right path, but I do believe it's best to get the cam, springs, lifters and stuff that work best together. Whoever you are getting the cam from should be able to give you EXACT combo's for the best performance. Just my nickel :D.
 
When you buy your cam get the kit and it will come with springs, and everything need for the springs. Get the screw in studs and pretty much any name brand roller rocker will be good, I got comps magnum roller tips they where on my heads when I got them and I like them so far.

As for valves and push rods I can't help as I know nothing about what sizes the clevland will need I would say its close to what a windsor would want though, say 2.0 or 2.1 on the intake side and 1.9 on the exahust side? :shrug:
 
Ummm, are these the same heads you have now?

I am not a Cleveland expert but I thought the 2V heads had oversized chambers, meaning you may need new pistons if you are replacing a 4V setup. The Aussie heads have the 2V runners and the 4V chambers IIRC. I am sure one of our 351C experts will be along shortly to correct me if I am wrong.

:D
 
If he's got 2bbl heads now, the heads he bought will have the same open chambers he's got now, unless he happened to luck out and get a set of Aussie heads. Order replacement valves for 80-82 351M/400 heads. These had the same size valves but are single groove, not the earlier multi groove's that are known to drop valves. You'll need valve locks to match.
 
D.Hearne said:
Order replacement valves for 80-82 351M/400 heads. These had the same size valves but are single groove, not the earlier multi groove's that are known to drop valves. You'll need valve locks to match.

The problem with the stock (Ford) valves is not so much the multi-groove keepers as it is that they are a 2-piece valve that has a nasty habit of coming apart at higher RPMs. You should put in a 1-piece valve (like Ferrea).

IMO it would be cheaper to find a set of 2V heads that someone has already done all the good stuff to. Maybe even buy a set of the new Edelbrock aluminum heads (which have 2V ports). The Edelbrocks may seem kind of pricey but getting a set of heads machined for screw-in studs, a valve job, new valves and keepers, and ported is not cheap.
 
68RCodeConv said:
The problem with the stock (Ford) valves is not so much the multi-groove keepers as it is that they are a 2-piece valve that has a nasty habit of coming apart at higher RPMs. You should put in a 1-piece valve (like Ferrea).

IMO it would be cheaper to find a set of 2V heads that someone has already done all the good stuff to. Maybe even buy a set of the new Edelbrock aluminum heads (which have 2V ports). The Edelbrocks may seem kind of pricey but getting a set of heads machined for screw-in studs, a valve job, new valves and keepers, and ported is not cheap.

I'm only paying 75.50 for the heads, so even with all the parts and machine work I don't think that the cost to build will get as high as buying ones already built.
 
Thanks for all the recommendations. You all pretty much confirmed the stuff I had thought I would need. My mechanic has recommended a local machine shop that is supposed to be really good. I hope to get these all put together and on for the spring.