Just dumped codes, need help. Still have electrical problem.

[Chris_Polley]

Alright, after replacing the TFI module and coil I still have my intermittant cutout with my car like it is losing spark for a second or so. I have an '87 Stang GT with an AOD.
I bought a cheap scanner and dumped the codes... any help here would be appreciated.
First test was a Key ON, engine OFF test.
82_____82_____1 beep_____14_____18_____14_____18



The second test was a Key ON, engine ON test. I missed the beginning of it, but my book says it goes through twice.
First I saw was a 4_____94_____44
So I am assuming it was just another 44 94 before it.
Going through my book I see:
82: Air Diverter Solenoid Circuit failure (no clue what this is... can't be causing my prob though)
14: Ignition profile pickup (PIP) circuit failure (another gentleman on here suggested this was my problem. I know nothing at all about it however)
18: Loss of tachometer input/IDM circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded or:
18: SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word (SAW) circuit failure (ehh???)
94: Converter clutch control (CCC) circuit failure
94: Air diverter solenoid circuit fault
44: Thermactor air system fault

These are what my book translates the codes into. I know next to nothing about most of them. I am assuming from what the other gentleman said about the PIP circuit that it is probably my problem... any information here would be greatly appreciated.
Actually... any information about any of these codes would be appreciated

Thanks!

 

[jrichker]

The codes 14 & 18 suggest that the magnetic pickup (or Hall Effect Sensor) in the bottom of the distributor is going bad.

Remove the distributor cap and inspect the sensor that hides inside the shutter wheel. Make sure that the mounting screws are tight, and that there are no bare wires. If all looks OK, the you get to either replace the distributor or change the magnetic pickup.

In order to change the magnetic pickup you have to remove the distributor and press the drive gear off the shaft. The you can remove the shaft & change the sensor.

A rebuilt distributor is about $75 exchange, so consider what works best for you.

If the smog pump is still present, check the following test path. Some car owners have removed the smog pump, thinking that they would get more power. They won't, and the 44 & 94 codes result.

Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

 

[Chris_Polley]

Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. I think it's just time to replace the distributor. It'd be nice to get a better one in the car anyway.
What do you guys think of an Accel Billetech Distrib? Part #ACC-60201A in Summit for $239.95.

As far as my smog pump, it is still present. So I will have to take a look and see what the deal is there.
Any idea on the code 82 that came up first on there?

Another good question for you guys... when I go and put the TFI module on the new distributor, can I use heatsink compound for a computer processor or should I find something else?

Thanks!