the manual one you need to buy has only 1 input and one output.... you put that on the rear brake line along the firewall. the stock prop valve is right under the master cylinder, it has 2 inputs and 2 outputs and needs to be gutted to allow enough fluid to flow to the rear brakes.
Looking for others who have the SSBrakes rear disc conversion kit...
- Thread starter shootshescores
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the manual one you need to buy has only 1 input and one output.... you put that on the rear brake line along the firewall. the stock prop valve is right under the master cylinder, it has 2 inputs and 2 outputs and needs to be gutted to allow enough fluid to flow to the rear brakes.
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The directions for the SSB Rear Disc Conversion Kit read:
Distribution Block and Proportioning Valve
A) Unscrew plug from front side of distribution block. BE CAREFUL-it is spring loaded. Inside the unit is a spring, spring seat, and piston. Pull out spring and piston (use needle nose pliers). Remove U-cup and spring from piston and discard.
B) Reassemble using only the bare piston. Screw plug back into block. BE SURE TO LEAVE OUT SPRING AND U CUP SEAL, BUT SEAL UNDER PLUG MUST REMAIN.
C) If desired, an adjustable "in-line proportioning valve is available from SSBC as an extra cost option.
The stock proportioning valve is retained, but gutted of the spring and U-cup.
After purchasing a caliper guage from SSBC I had 1300lbs. of pressure at both rear calipers.
Tech support told me that was a very good number.
With that kind of pressure at the rear calipers, to me, that rules out any stock proportioning valve issues.
Distribution Block and Proportioning Valve
A) Unscrew plug from front side of distribution block. BE CAREFUL-it is spring loaded. Inside the unit is a spring, spring seat, and piston. Pull out spring and piston (use needle nose pliers). Remove U-cup and spring from piston and discard.
B) Reassemble using only the bare piston. Screw plug back into block. BE SURE TO LEAVE OUT SPRING AND U CUP SEAL, BUT SEAL UNDER PLUG MUST REMAIN.
C) If desired, an adjustable "in-line proportioning valve is available from SSBC as an extra cost option.
The stock proportioning valve is retained, but gutted of the spring and U-cup.
After purchasing a caliper guage from SSBC I had 1300lbs. of pressure at both rear calipers.
Tech support told me that was a very good number.
With that kind of pressure at the rear calipers, to me, that rules out any stock proportioning valve issues.
1991vert
10 Year Member
- May 1, 2005
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1991vert
10 Year Member
JKidd
Member
Sounds like something else is wrong. I put that kit on my '92 LX and was very happy with it. Stopped considerably better (and more stable) than the stock set up and I had stock pads all the way around.
I gutted the stock prop valve like they suggested and never installed an aftermarket one. There was a definite improvement over stock.
If you really want to maximize your stopping power now, upgrade the front discs/pads and get a proportioning valve. I wouldn't say the SSBC was a $700 mistake at all. Look at it in the sense that you can now tune your braking to be much more efficient with a complete 4 disc set up than it ever could have been with the stock drums.
Don't give up on it.
I gutted the stock prop valve like they suggested and never installed an aftermarket one. There was a definite improvement over stock.
If you really want to maximize your stopping power now, upgrade the front discs/pads and get a proportioning valve. I wouldn't say the SSBC was a $700 mistake at all. Look at it in the sense that you can now tune your braking to be much more efficient with a complete 4 disc set up than it ever could have been with the stock drums.
Don't give up on it.
- May 1, 2005
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93 LX
Founding Member
Basicly this kit is a 87-88 Turbo T-Bird kit with a MC and brackets that allow you to retain the stock FOX Track. A few years ago I got hold of a 3.73, 87 Rear End from said car and installed it in my 82 Capri. What I found is its not the pressure of the fluid its the volume of fluid that helps.
When I replaced my MC I used the 85-86 SVO unit and I also externed my Power Boosters rod, this is the rod that presses the MC's piston when the brakes are applied. I think it was 2 turns or 1/4" longer then stock. I also retained the 3/8" brakes lines on the T-bird rear end instead of the smaller drum brakes lines from the previous drum 8.8 this unit replaced. Along with this "upgrade" I replaced the stock front brake setup. On my 82 Capri this was a 10" disk along with the small calipers. I upgraded this to the larger 11" rotors and 73mm calipers.
Brake Performance:
Over stock 11", 73mm front with drum rear to disk rear I noticed several improvments.
1. The car tends to sqwat now under hard braking. With drums this was more like a nose dive under the same braking conditions.
2. under hard cornering braking is more consistant with less brake fade. I have the rears set to grab harder so in extreame cases the rear tends to help me get through the curves better. In fact last year I was running down some local hills and out braked this guy in a M5 and in the straights pulled away letting this guy seem the rear of my Capri the rest of the way down the hill.
One note I did notice a hard brake pedal, this is due to the booster being a bit small fron this application. At one point I will get a SVO unit since it fits the generation of my FOX chassis and I do not want to bag the hell out of my shock tower to get the 93 Cobra unit installed.
Anyway keep working the brakes and you will get them to perfom better. Check the booster rod length, also you do need an adjustable porp valve to control the amount of fliud going to the rear. This will help the fronts grab better as well. Also remember Foxes do not stop well at all so any helps is much need in any case. BTW my upgrade for the rear cost me 300 including the rear end from the boneyard and a week of working on it when I had the time.
My next mod will be to retain the stock track by getting stock length axles along with NCR brackets as mentioned at the site mentioned above. I think I will go 5 lug so I will redrill the 4 lug rotors as well.
When I replaced my MC I used the 85-86 SVO unit and I also externed my Power Boosters rod, this is the rod that presses the MC's piston when the brakes are applied. I think it was 2 turns or 1/4" longer then stock. I also retained the 3/8" brakes lines on the T-bird rear end instead of the smaller drum brakes lines from the previous drum 8.8 this unit replaced. Along with this "upgrade" I replaced the stock front brake setup. On my 82 Capri this was a 10" disk along with the small calipers. I upgraded this to the larger 11" rotors and 73mm calipers.
Brake Performance:
Over stock 11", 73mm front with drum rear to disk rear I noticed several improvments.
1. The car tends to sqwat now under hard braking. With drums this was more like a nose dive under the same braking conditions.
2. under hard cornering braking is more consistant with less brake fade. I have the rears set to grab harder so in extreame cases the rear tends to help me get through the curves better. In fact last year I was running down some local hills and out braked this guy in a M5 and in the straights pulled away letting this guy seem the rear of my Capri the rest of the way down the hill.
One note I did notice a hard brake pedal, this is due to the booster being a bit small fron this application. At one point I will get a SVO unit since it fits the generation of my FOX chassis and I do not want to bag the hell out of my shock tower to get the 93 Cobra unit installed.
Anyway keep working the brakes and you will get them to perfom better. Check the booster rod length, also you do need an adjustable porp valve to control the amount of fliud going to the rear. This will help the fronts grab better as well. Also remember Foxes do not stop well at all so any helps is much need in any case. BTW my upgrade for the rear cost me 300 including the rear end from the boneyard and a week of working on it when I had the time.
My next mod will be to retain the stock track by getting stock length axles along with NCR brackets as mentioned at the site mentioned above. I think I will go 5 lug so I will redrill the 4 lug rotors as well.
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