Microsquirt setup and first start questions

Allbizns

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Jun 14, 2019
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Charlotte NC
I just installed a DIY Microsquirt in my almost stock,92 mustang 5.0. It just has a CAI and a BBK 70mm T-body only because the factory was sticking bad and I had this laying around. Idecided to install it now for 2 reasons 1) I purchased it used and wanted to make sure it worked and 2) I just finished building a healthy 347 and wanted to get things figured out on the stock engine to hopefully make it easier once i install the 347.
I completed the install yesterday and was able to get it up and runing Timing is checked and good. I am using a NGK AFX wideband O2 hooked to the micro. I have the EGO set for this wideband. It seems to reading accurate to what the unit displays the thing that concerned me was when I selected it in the drop down the voltage It showed in the blocks did not match the voltage scale that is supplied with the NGK unit. But the voltage shown is grayed out and you can not change it. So being it appears to read correctly those are just bogus voltages displayed?
It started up and ran decent. It had a little surge at idle but nothing too bad. These are things I'm sure with a little time and learning I will get figured out. Mind you this was just a quick start and drive around the block quick to make sure the unit worked.

The questions I have is I used the base stock map that supplied with the micro. As I went thru the setup parameters I noticed the required fuel was set up for a 306cui with 30lb injectors with an injector dead time of 1.3 @ 13.2v and a Voltage correction of .100.

I assume before going any further I should set the required fuel to a 302 with 19lb injectors. I assume I should also get the injector data for the 19lb injectors and do the math as @awhat91 has shown in the sticky portion? I guess from there once that is set up I assume I need to get a VE table somewhat close before I do anything with any Closed loop idle.

I have watched Most of @a91what videos which has helped me understand a good bit more. Any advice would be great. just trying to do some self learning I'm the type that likes to figure things out and understand them so sorry for any dumb or repeated questions.
 
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Allbizns

Member
Jun 14, 2019
16
2
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Charlotte NC
Thanks I will use those numbers.

I had a small hot start surge this weekend. Other than that it runs and idles decently. Even cold start is pretty good.
When I looked at the log the MAT temp was 65deg but it was reading in the upper end of the scale in the MAT air density table at 248deg. I looked at the MAT/CLT correction and it is set at 0. Not sure if that has some thing to do.

Also I did notice when I set up the the temp sensors that I can cal the CLT to the ford cal but when i try and do the MAT sensor it fails to write.

Before i go down a rabbit hole I will adjust the Required fuel settings and go from there. It could also be that the idle is just to lean. The AFR table right now is requesting 14.8

Also the EGO correction i assume 100 on the gauge is not correcting any. If it goes under 100 it is removing and over 100 it is adding fuel. Is there a way to adjust the gauge to just read the percent its adding or removing?
 

Allbizns

Member
Jun 14, 2019
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2
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Charlotte NC
I have since loaded your MAT/CLT table from the sticky. I was going to try it tomorrow.
The one thing I noticed is the MAT temp appears to be off. When I started the car this morning the air temp in the garage was 50deg and the MAT was reading -2deg at start up. It slowly climed to 32-35deg it was reading when I arrived at work which is only about 3.5 miles and the outside air temp was 47deg. so I need to do some digging there. I have a new sensor in the garage I could try installing.
I still need to ajust the required fuel and injector info. the car runs decent enough right now I was going to wait till this weekend til I had more time to drive it to swap over that stuff and then try and enable CL idle. I wasn't sure if the VE table was close if changing the required fuel and injector data would effect the VE table at all.
 

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I personally wouldn't be adjusting the VE table or Required fuel until you have the MAT fixed. The ECU adds additional fuel when it thinks the intake temps are colder then when hot. You are going to need to make changes again to these tables even if you get them right as soon as that sensor reads right.
 

Allbizns

Member
Jun 14, 2019
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Charlotte NC
That was my thoughts as well. I hope to get some time tonight to try that sensor or at least look at the voltage output on the current sensor.
 

Allbizns

Member
Jun 14, 2019
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Charlotte NC
Had a chance to mess with things tonight. Tested ohms and resistance from sensor connector to ECU connector it was in spec, I tried wiggling the connections along with messing with the salt and pepper connectors this had no effect on the sensor reading still reading -17 deg. At this point I tried to re callibrate the sensor but once again it gave me a could not write error like previously so I changed out the sensor. It had the same reading as the other sensor, both reading -17 deg at
60deg ambient . So once again I attempted to calibrate the new sensor and it accepted it. Now it reads 60deg right about ambient like it should. So out of curiosity I reinstalled the original sensor and It also read 60deg. Not sure what happened but glad everything is now reading correctly. I did end up putting the new sensor back in.

So I attempted to start the car and as suspected everything was way off. It wanted to stall and then started to surge. I let it run a little in the garage to watch the MAT sensor and it was climbing, it climbed to about 88deg at 160deg coolant temp. I figure now is the time to enter the correct required fuel numbers and injector data and start the process over.

I will try and mess with it some more tomorrow and see how it goes. I will try and data log any issues I run into.
 
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