More gear change question

[PNY PWR]

Well I have all my control arms , shocks, brake junk.etc... off waiting for parts. Only thing attached is the main brake line and driveshaft. Would it be easier to do the ring pinon with the rear end pulled? I'm thinking I should go ahead and pull it then just strip it down on saw horses. I hate to dig into that rear end, never done it, but I need to get rid of those 2.73's

I was thinking about getting FMS 3.73's and full install kit w/ everything. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[351 82GT]

Unless you know how to install gears and have the proper tools, I would leave that job to a professional.
I'm getting ready to buy new gears but I'm letting a shop do it.
It's about a $200-$250 job.

 

[PNY PWR]

I gotta learn how to do it sometime. I could barely make myself let someone paint my car. I hate others working on my stuff. I do understand where you're coming from though.

 

[PNY PWR]

Fixin to order gears, like right now. I can't decide between 3.73 and 4.10. Somebody pick quickly. Yes I will hold you to it if they suck

 

[351 82GT]

Fixin to order gears, like right now. I can't decide between 3.73 and 4.10. Somebody pick quickly. Yes I will hold you to it if they suck

Me too but I can't decide between 4:10 or 4:30
Since I only have a C-4, I'm leaning towards the 4:10's

 

[PNY PWR]

I always heard use 4.30's w/ the AOD, maybe 4.10's would be best for you. Of course I have no idea.

I'm leaning toward the 3.73's

Any pics of that 82 GT? My first Stang was an 82 GT, triple black 4spd. Man, that was sweet looking car.

 

[drgn5.0]

i would go 4.10's. i'd not have any less for n/a.

 

[SlowGT]

I'd use 3.73s with a 5spd.

As far as the gear change goes, it shouldn't be too difficult if you're getting a FMS R&P. Simply reuse all of the factory shims in their original locations and it 'should' be fine. After you reassemble it, do a contact check and see how the mesh looks. There are tons of how-to's and pictures on the internet. I've got a Ford shop manual, so if you find yourself looking for the factory specs, let me know and I'll send you a copy of them. I've seen guys set these up without dial indicators and everything was fine. But that's years of experience showing. The biggest tool of issue for most folks is a press for changing the carrier & pinion bearings. Don't forget to save any shims from behind the pinion bearing. I'd also recommend repacking the trac-loc while you have everything apart. Good luck.

 

[Jester73440]

How much does a fms gear and kit go for $ wise ?

 

[Jester73440]

How much does a fms gear and kit go for $ wise ?

I heard 3.55-3.73 5 spd 4.10 aod

 

[Mavrick]

If you repack the clutches, be sure to soak the clutches in friction modifier for a few hours.

And i'd go with, well i DID go with, 3:73's in a 5spd

 

[Michael Yount]

PNY - special tools are required for the gear swap - at the very least, have someone help you that has the tools and knows what they're doing. Many brand new gear sets have been ruined because someone figured they'd put them in themselves to 'learn' how.

 

[SlowGT]

How much does a fms gear and kit go for $ wise ?

$139 + s/h from Gene Evans Ford I don't recall if it comes with any shims or not. I've got a pile of my own, so I don't usually pay much attention to what else is in the box besides the R&P.

This would be a good time to replace your carrier, pinion & axle bearings, too. Axle & carrier bearings and axle seals will probably run you around $75 depending on where you shop. If you call Gene Evans, ask about the master rebuild kit for the rearend. I'm pretty sure it includes all bearings, shims and seals. I don't know how much that kit sells for.

I've been getting the clutch kits for the trac-loc on eBay. I think the last one was $54. Get the set with 8 clutches. The factory setup only uses 6. Throw away one of the steel spacers from each side and stagger 4 clutches each instead of 3. I've been tightening up the setup with a .040" shim on the carrier end of the clutch packs. The factory shim is .035". I don't recall how much those shims cost. I think you buy a kit with a variety of sizes (.025"-.045" by .005" increments). I believe those are the included sizes. I'm judging by the fact that I've got a pile of these but I'm out of .040s.

The friction modifier is a personal preference. I don't use it anymore and I haven't put it in the last 3 rebuilds that I've done for others. No problems to date.

 

[timewarped1972]

if your bent on doing it yourself, you may want to look around and see if you can find a set of used gears. sometimes you can find real low mile gears out of a newer truck etc and if you mees it up or it doesnt last as long as you'd hope your not out a new set of gears. i would definatly have some one who has done a few gear swaps help if you have never touched an 8.8 axle.
it is possible to do it at home but at a minimum you need a torque wrench, a breaker bar, quality verneir calipers, a jack,2 jack stands, a good flouresent drop light, and maybe a telescoping magnet ( for easy c clip removal ).
you can buy the install kits or shims and cruch sleeve from summit....like i said it can be done just have some one who has a clue help you.
if not, take it to a shop, in the morning, and just camp out there all day while they do it.......know how you feel about leaving it some where....lol...

 

[SlowGT]

If you want, for added help, I can send you a copy of the step-by-step in the Ford service manual. It's very easy to follow, with diagrams. Let me know.

 

[Jester73440]

I can get you the gear $135 shipped and the master bearing kit slowgt is talking about for under $50 shipped everything is motive gear and full factory warranty as far as clutch packs i believe we have those too. If anyone needs anything let me know I got connections in the drive train industry.And I can work deals if like 5 guys get together to buy gear or anyone got something I need I will work with trades. Anyway in my opinion pnypwr I would find someone who has done it before and assest them best and safe way to learn

 

[stockhatch]

Do it yourself man. The guys that people pay to do gear swaps did their first one too you know. I had never seen the inside of a diff and I did my own gear install. Take your time and do it right and you will have no problems....plus, once you can do it, the neighborhood people who are too scared to learn will pay you to do their cars

AC

EDIT: Oh, and for sure do it on jackstands if you can. It SUCKS to do it on the floor. And you WILL need a dial indicater and good torque wrenches. If you dont have or cant get them, then yeah, take it to somebody else.

EDIT EDIT: 4.10's!!!!!! T5 or no. Dont fear the gear

 

[PNY PWR]

Thanks for all the informative replies. I sent those POS Granatelli lca's back and swapped for a set of Ford Racing 3.73's. I ordered a Richmond full rear end rebuild kit, no sense in not doing it all while I'm doing R&P. Car's got 150k miles on it.

With all the tools, presses, and stuff needed to do the whole thing I decided to let a pro do it. I just wouldn't have the time to run and get bearings pressed and so on, working 70hrs a week.

There's an old man w/ a shop here in town, I talked to him for quite a while on the phone and he knows his stuff. He has a 67 Mustang 289/4spd. He's been a mechanic longer than I've been alive and use to do nothing but gear work, now owns his own shop. At his shop he is the one that does rear ends rather than his other mechanics.

He's going to do the complete rebuild w/ my parts for $300. The rear end is out of the car cause I'm redoing the suspension. I'm just going to take him the rear end.

I can't wait to see how she does w/ all new control arms, bushings, shocks, and 3.73 gears.

 

[SlowGT]

There's an old man w/ a shop here in town, I talked to him for quite a while on the phone and he knows his stuff. He has a 67 Mustang 289/4spd. He's been a mechanic longer than I've been alive and use to do nothing but gear work, now owns his own shop. At his shop he is the one that does rear ends rather than his other mechanics.

He's going to do the complete rebuild w/ my parts for $300. The rear end is out of the car cause I'm redoing the suspension. I'm just going to take him the rear end.

After 70hrs a week, I agree that $300 is definitely money well spent.


There's an old mechanic around here like that, too. I'm not sure if he even owns any dial indicators or calipers. He sets them up by 'calibrated' hands & eyes. Everybody that's had work done there speaks highly for his R&P work.



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