My 1994 GT Mustang Aode to T5 Conversion w/PICS!

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 99FiveOh, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. Well, I got all my parts rounded up so I figured I'd do alot of people a favor and document my progress on this swap.

    I've done about 6 of these swaps so far (foxes and SN95's)so this will be cake for me.

    For my swap, I'll be using a Fox T5 transmission and bellhousing. This is fine as long as you use bell and trans together from a fox. I do this because 94/95 parts are getting more scarce by the day and there's not alot of aftermarket support for items like transmissions and bellhousings, etc. Using Fox parts ensures that I'll have a much larger supply of new and used parts for the future. And I'll show in the end that the shifter isn't all that bad, matter of fact, after a few days with it you won't even notice it anymore. Also, there are little plates you can get to move the shifter handle back a little to compensate.

    I'm also going to show how to use your automatic block seperator plate instead of locating and purchasing a T5 plate.

    So, if you're looking into doing this swap, follow along and enjoy. :D

    First, you'll want to get your car as high as possible. A lift is nice, but most of us don't have that luxury. :nono:


    After I lifted the car up, I prepared to swap the pedals out. I highly recommend taking out the driver seat! If you try this with the seat in place, you're neck will be cursing you for days! :nonono: There's 2 15mm nuts and 2 15mm bolts holding the captain's chair in place.




    Man, is that carpet discusting! :eek: I'll have to rectify that situation before reassembly for sure. Look there! Found some money! :D I found a grand total of $1.76 :nice:

    Ok, with the seat out of the way you'll want to put a piece of cardboard over the studs or they'll stick right into your back! Not good times at all. Now, you'll want to go under the dash with a 8mm socket and remove the trim panel under the steering wheel. Once that is removed, there may or may not be a black steel shield behind the trim panel. Again, 2 8mm bolts hold it in place.

    When the black shield is gone, you'll see a steel brace with a slight curve to it, and once again, 2 8mm bolts hold it on. After that is out of the way you can see exactly what you're working with.

    Now, before you go under the dash you'll need to be prepared because once you're situated and comfortable under there, you're not gonna want to get back out to get tools. So here's a list of what to take with you:
    Needle nose pliers
    13mm short well socket w/swivel and extensions of various size
    10 mm short or long well
    3/8 Ratchet
    Flat screwdriver
    13mm Wrench
    Assortment of Torx bits (can't remember if it's a T50 or T45)

    Now get situated under the dash. First thing you do is make sure your steering is locked. Then you'll take the torx bolt out of the steering shaft/knuckle. Then remove the 13mm bolt holding the knuckle to the steering column. Now take the steering shaft that goes through the floorboard and push it down into the floor as far as you can get it, then remove the knuckle. Don't forget to remove the little floor vent elbow, it get's a little annoying! There's a spring and a disk with a bunch of little holes in it that will probably fall off the column shaft. Just remember how they go back on, disk then spring then knuckle.

    Then, you'll see a yellow retainer clip holding the brake shaft/brake light sensor to the brake pedal. Pull the clip with needle nose and use your screwdriver to pry it off. Pay attention on how it all comes apart so you can get it all back together correctly. It seems kinda intimidating at first, but on the reassembly it'll come to you. Now, push in the retainer tabs on the sensor with the vacuum hose (cruise) and pull it away from the pedal assy. Tuck it back away somewhere. Then remove that little white plastic clip thing that's attached to the brake pedal itself. It'll get in the way of the next step if you don't!

    Next, take your short 13mm and use it with your swivel and extensions and get the 4 nuts that hold the clutch pedal assy. to the firewall. Then get the 10mm bolt that goes through the top of the pedal assy. Now remove all the plugs and wiring that's still attached to the assy. You should be able to pull the assy free now. Take your time and it'll come right out.





    Now that you have the pedals out it's time to get the 5 speed pedals ready to install. Do yourself a favor and purchase an aluminum double hook quadrant and firewall adjuster. However, DO NOT buy any aftermarket cables! They brake and are 99% of the time JUNK! :shrug: Your choices for a cable are a new/used OEM cable or a Maximum Motorsports cable.

    Here I have pictures of the stock crappy plastic self adjusting setup and with my new Steeda setup:




    Now, get back under the dash with your clutch pedal assy. and manuver it into place. This will try your patients a little, but keep at it, it WILL go in! Then you'll be left with this:


    The experienced SN95 guys will probably notice that my clutch pedal assy. is the wrong one, it's out of a 96 up car evidently. I can tell because there's no where to install the cruise control cancel switch! False advertisement on the part of the seller, failure to properly inspect the part on the part of the buyer! (no pun intended) Anyway, it'll work fine for me since I'm going to ditch my cruise anyway.

    It's a good idea to leave the panels and pieces under the dash disassembled for now. Soon you'll be back in that area to remove the shift interlock device when you pull your shifter out.
  2. Ah, "fond" memories of doing this for my Cobra conversion. As a side note, I believe the Maximum Motorsports cable is actually a generic Ford cable, rather than a specific one for any model year. It works wonderfully with their quadrant too.

    Nice write-up so far!
  3. Computer swap

    This part is pretty self explanitory. You must change the computer in 94/95's when you convert to 5 speed because the AODE computer will pull timing and fuel when it "thinks" it needs to shift. And because it's idea and your idea of when it's time to shift will most certainly be different, it's gonna get funky at wierd times during acceleration and cause backfiring and missing! :nonono:

    If you have a chip or Tweecer or other tuning device, you can have the AODE functions turned off, this will allow you to skip this entire step and possibly save you some cash!

    Now, you need to pull the door sill plate up and then pull off the passenger side kick panel. And there's the computer chilling in it's little cuby....


    To get the computer out you'll need a 9/32's and a 6 or 6.5 mm socket. There's a screw to the right and one at the bottom of the black bracket. The lower screw is hiding under the carpet. Pull all the wiring connectors apart and away from the black bracket and set to the side. Now, use a 10mm short well socket and loosen the bolt holding the main computer connector to the computer. Then use the small 6 or 6.5 socket to loosen the white plastic retainer that holds the computer. With a little finangling the computer will come free.

    Here's what we're installing!

    Install the computer and wiring in reverse. At this point, you can still start the car if you have only gotten as far as I have to this point. It's a good idea to test out your computer now, this way you can rule the computer out if you happen to have trouble after the entire swap is done! If it starts up and idles fine, turn it back off, put your trim panels back on and you're done with the computer swap! :nice:

    Now is a great time to go and unhook your neg. battery cable if you haven't done so already.

    To be continued tomarrow evening! :SNSign:
  4. Nice thread friend nice thread
  5. Great write-up! Good info.
  6. good work,Mark:nice:
    got me reminiscing about my swap:)
  7. :hail2: Mark! Makes me wanna leave work right now and go start mine right away!!
  8. I have a lake outside right now because it's been pouring all night and as we speak, :nonono: but I'm gonna be a soldier and work in the rain. I'll go get a little canopy thing from the dollar store and see how it works out. A little rain never hurt anyone, right?! :shrug:
  9. is it wet under the car aswell?
    if so,maybe you should just wait til it dries.
    easier to work when you dont have to worry about getting soaked.

    if its not wet,and just cold,dress warm.
    dont want to get sick:(

    **heres a tip,whep i did the conversion,i took the front wheels off.
    it let alittle more light in under there,and felt less claustrophobic.
  10. Awesome write up so far!!! Can't wait to see it finished! I may have to do this for a buddy of mine soon so I will definetly be using this!!! Keep it coming!!
  11. Wait, i dont understand..the 5 speed main parts are already on an auto? All you have to do is hook it up? I thought you would have to make a bunch of holes and do a whole bunch more stuff.
  12. Yes sir. It's a fairly easy swap. Just takes time! But it's nice that somebody is finally doing a write up! I think he needs a well deserved pat on the back!:flag:
  13. the only cutting involved is to open up the shifter hole on the trans tunnel.

    Posted via Mobile Device
  14. Yes, I'll get to that. How long can a post be? I may just edit my second part and add all the info into that post.
  15. H-Pipe removal and starter removal

    Man! What a drag working in the nasty, cold, wet a$$ weather! :notnice: I managed to get the H pipe pulled down and not much else.

    I also removed the smog pump and associated plumbing, when I can get to rear of the motor easily, I'll eliminate the smog crossover tube, too.

    I'm sure alot of you know how to remove a H-pipe by now, but for those who would like to be walked through the process here it is.

    If your H pipe is stock like mine was, then you'll need a ratchet, a few extensions,9/16 socket, 18mm socket for the header flange nuts and 13mm socket for the H pipe hanger nuts.

    First, get under the car and remove the nuts that hold the mufflers to the H pipe. When the nuts are removed, pull the muffler flow tubes free from the H pipe flanges and let them hang aside.


    Next, pull the O2 sensor plugs apart. You'll want to soak the header flange studs down with PB Blaster or equivilant, those studs are all too easy to break off! Then use your extensions with the 18mm socket and remove the nuts from the studs.

    Now you'll want to loosen the two 13mm nuts that hold H pipe hanger to the crossmember. When they're pretty loose, use your knee to hold the H pipe up else it may come down right on your noggin! :mad: Once you have all the nuts/bolts off, you can try wiggling it free. There is a pipe that runs up to your smog pump, mine just pulled right off the H pipe, but in my experiences they're usually a PITA! I usually just hack it off and have it rewelded after I'm finished. I'm eliminating my smog so i won't need it anymore.


    And here you can see the nuts are removed leaving just the studs.

    I didn't get pics of the hanger nuts or the smog tube because my camer was dying and I was just about ready to get out of the rainy weather.


    These can be tricky for first timers so I'll outline real quick the easy way to take out the starter.

    First, you'll need a 9/16" socket to remove the nut from the lower starter bolt stud, it holds the passenger side O2 sensor plug bracket. Once that is removed, you'll be able to use a deep well 13mm socket and get the lower starter bolt out. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you are on that bolt SQUARE! They are very easy to round off, take your time and it'll come loose.

    The top one can really be a pain to get out, but I've learned a trick over the years. Use a deep well and a short extension, reach your arm up over the A arm and through a oval shaped hole in the K member, if done correctly your socket will be right on the bolt. Use your other hand to keep the socket steady and square. The good news is once these bolts are broken loose they usually just screw out by hand. :nice:

    Once you have the starter out, lay it up in the K member out of the way somewhere.

    That's as far as I got this afternoon. After many trips to 4 different parts stores gathering the last of what I needed, I didn't have alot of time left to actually work on the car. Tomarrow I'll finish this for sure. Stay tuned!
  16. Awsome work man, Great detail!
  17. Thanks! Tomarrow I'll get into the meat and potatoes of this swap!
  18. You didn't have to use a u-joint adapter to get to the h-pipe to header bolts?
  19. No, I used a wobbler extension, but you can use a swivel if you want. Either way will work. Mine weren't too bad really, could've gotten away with a straight extension.
  20. Excellent write up. Thanks!