My build log: 66 coupe, will be 4.6L DOHC

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by wicked93gs, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. Looks good so far. What does a Junk yard DOHC cost? and what about the computer? When doing a car like this I found it much easier to buy a complete , running car, then you have all the STUFF you need. I like the front end parts, Don't you wish FORD would have done this a long time ago.
  2. a "junkyard" DOHC runs about $150 but I would say a rebuild is a necessity for one of those....a "salvage" yard engine is about $400-$1000 and come with a 3 month warranty on average....mine cost me $600 with 20k miles on it, but I found a mint engine some guy got from a salvage yard and just had sitting in his garage for about 5 years, tough he kept it up right...he was panning on dropping i in a cobra kit car, but decided to build a wild S2000 with a hayabusa v8 instead(evidently some guy builds a v8 block and crank for hayabusa heads....ends up with a 3.0L v8 making 350HP weighing 200lbs)

    as for wiring harness and ECU..I will buld my own harness sine I am using Megasquirt(or more correctly Megasquirt 2 v 3.0) which actually has flex fuel sensor support built in(good for me since this will be a flex fuel car Ethanol/Gasoline) MS costs about $400 or so....and I dont need things like MAF sensor anymore(you can use one with megasquirt if you so choose...I do not so choose)...whjich simplifies the whole intake...the transmission I got for $300 with 26k all told the swap is $ $1300more for the mustang II its concievable someone could have a DOHC 4.6L mustang for $2500
  3. alright, more progress and more pictures, finally finished(or almost) the motor mounts, heres some pics

    I will re-do this one soon to match the other

    no idea what car these are from...I'm assuming a crown vic...just found them on a junk 4.6L

    overall picture of the mounted engine in the bay...
    picture inside of the shifter area...I have yet to make the tranny mount brackets...they will attach to the frame rails though using a SN95 crossmember

    and an overall picture of the car...the first I have even posted...for obvious reasons

    if anyone could tell me what the hell wheels I have I would appreciate it...they are 16"
  4. PicturesfromKellysCameraJune142009.jpg
    remade the passenger's side mount bracket to match the driver's side....all thats left now is the tranny mount
  5. :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

    way to go dood! project is looking like its coming along nicely now! thing you know, you'll be drivin it :D
  6. PicturesfromKellysCameraJune1420-30.jpg
    what I have so far for the tranny mount crossmember brackets
    the brackets are just tacked in right now...I have to finish welding and add gussets before I trust this to support my tranny

    its a SN95 crossmember by the way...the mount itself came from a 3.8L automatic mustang...evidently they use the same mount for all models from base to cobra
  7. Outstanding pics all the way through; what a project! :hail2:
    Now, if it were me (ornery SOB-ing B*ST*ARD that I have been known to be at times); I'd try to find the stickiest tires available in 16", put some kind of bland paint job on her, and scare the Be-Jebus out of any idiots threatening me at the nearest track.
    (But that's just me, YMMV) :rlaugh:

    As for the rims ("correct" term for those particular specimens, just read on); I've seen verrr-ry similar factory styles on early-90's S-10 Blazers, and from what I can tell, identical ones on a mid-late 90's Mazda Navajo.
    (THINK: "2-Door Ford Exploder")
    Don't know if they're factory Mazda, factory Ford, aftermarket (???) or what, but their looks tend to follow through on the 'theme' that you're building. I personally like 'em.

  8. Bronco II/Ranger Wheels...
  9. well, today I modified the Fiero seat tracks and bolted them in, thought I would show how I did was actually the simplest thing I have done so far....the front hole spread is close enough that you can just slot them out a little and it will line up fine...the back holes are another story...

    you can see here where I simply cut off the mounting feet.....
    moved them down to an 11" spread(front to back) and re-welded them
    I then cut the head off of a 7/16 fine thread 2" bolt(making it a stud) and welded it in...
    making sure it was 14" spread side to side
    at the front I welded bolts in....the finished product looked like this...though one of the bolts wasnt perfectly straight, it still worked
    and here we have them installed, now I need to re-cover them with some mrmike covers, and install some speakers in them...modifying the fiero brackets has one huge advantage for tall people....I am 6'3" and if I put the seats all the way back I cant even press down the clutch all the way(though I dont have the clutch assembly installed yet)

    edit: the adjustment mechanisms are on the inside of the seat where they are not as visible, and now I have seats that dont hurt my back if I drive for over an hour(though I have yet to ever actually drive this thing
  10. well, today I went to the junkyard looking for a 7/8" bore master cylinder....for my planned 4 wheel manual disc setup...and I found one in an 84? thunderbird...the ports are on the passenger side...but oh well, I'll deal with that later....anyway, as I was walking through the junkyard I saw a couple 94 mark VIIIs that have been there for a couple months...but I then stumbled on a 98 mark VIII as well...jackpot! I've been looking for one because I wanted the intake manifold...anyway some pictures...ignore the oil and dirt...I just need to clean and paint it....


    when everything is tightened down there is about 1/8" clearance between the TB and the PCV valve boss in the valve cover...yikes! may need to clearance the valve cover slightly before bolting everything together

    here's my clearance(or lack thereof) between the master cylinder and the drivers side valve cover(ignore the hole punched in it from whoever removed the engine...the valvetrain stuff is all fine...just need a new valve cover, regardless I think I will be able to trim a small amount off of the master cylinder to increase clearance slightly...oddly enough I dont think the brake lines will be an issue as long as I use tight radius bends
  11. wow man you have a big project, keep up the good work
  12. heh, I dont have nearly as much work on this nightmare as when I started...was just a stripped down shell, within a couple weeks if I'm lucky I should have it stopping and the very least I'll have it stopping(thats one advantage of manual brakes I guess)
  13. my progress today was pretty good for being a weeknight....

    tonight I got the front brakes plumbed(ignore the line going was a test line, making sure I could make the tight radius bend I needed to clear the VC without kinking the line...I did without too much issue...note: the 85 master cylinder I pulled from the junkyard may have been good...but since this cast aluminum rebuilt unit was only $17 I couldnt resist the chance to save a pound or so(and have a MC that will never rust)
    the clearance here is about 1/8"....I actually had to grind on the MC just a touch...I could probably grind another 3/16" away if it turns out I need to...I personally don't think i will have to

    did a quick and dirty restoration on the pedals and pedal support....mainly because I'll be tearing them back out again at some point to do my hydraulic clutch well as a roller bearing conversion....I need a damn gas pedal though...havent had any luck finding one

    my 5.0L UPR fuel rails fit fine as far as injector spacing manifold interference either...I just need to fab some mounting brackets for them and they are good to go
  14. well, another productive junkyard day for me....

    this is a gas pedal assembly from a 97 mark viii...5" pedal centers with the gas pedal 2" lower than the brake...the same as an 05+ mustang(I measured) although on the 05 the gas pedal is actually 1 3/4" I need to space the pedal out anther 1/4" or so...the pedal itself however is hideous...I'll need to find some pedal covers that actually look good....

    my wilwood porportioning valve came in today...mocked up and half plumbed in this picture...I wont be using hinges on this car...hood wll be a full pin on

    the throttle cable from the same mark...I can sit in the drivers seat and actuate the throttle body...makes the car seem a lot closer to completion for some reason

    I found a big block truck in the junkyard as well with a C6...took me a few minutes to figure the U-joint out(first time I've had to do it) but at $7 its a tenth the cost of a new one...and for the record it does fit the T45
  15. spent the day today pulling off the entire front suspension, painting it, and re-installing...wish I had done it the first time around, would have been much simpler...I still have to touch up the paint on the frame,


    it looks decent now...its more rust prevention than show though...this is after all going to be a driver, not a show car

    p.s. in other news while I had the wheels off I measured the backspacing on actually ended up being 4.25" which doesnt mean much since I'm not planning on using these wheels....however since the tires stick out 1/2" past the fenders on either side with the lincoln rear end, it means that if I use 4.75" backspaced wheels I will get the correct spacing....although maybe not if the width increases...uggh, I hate wheels and trying to find the right size...luckily they are last on my list...the rear end will most likely be changed again before I ever get to that point...I've been playing with the idea of an IRS 8.8" assembly from a Mark VIII lately
  16. not too much progress lately, been busy with other stuff

    I fond what looks to be an old grant wheel in the junkyard on a 65 F100, so I pulled it and installed it on my column...seems to fit fine...temporary wheel only, this is rather ugly and not what I want...but for $10 it lets me concentrate on other things for awhile

    the other day while at work I was able to pick up a scrap of stainless for free...I'll be using it for my console...but I will be brushing it with a wire brush an coating it with some type of coating to take off as much of the shine as I can...I want it to look like brushed aluminum when I get done with it(or fairly close) I suppose I might be able to paint it with aluminum paint with an actual paintbrush?
  17. well, no pictures today, but I installed my pilot bearing, block spacer plate, and clutch today, used a new throwout bearing and a 96 mustang v6 clutch fork(evidently clutch forks are the same for ANY T5(v6 or not) as well as the T45...also dropped the engine and tranny back in for the last time(it was PITA for some reason and didnt want to go in today..took 4 hours) I also decided I was unhappy with the mark viii gas pedal I was using simply because it put the throttle cable out too I test fit one from a 72 mustang, it looks like it should work perfectly....also test fit my 01 Cobra exhaust manifolds...a good fit...though it looks as if the steering linkage will almost certainly have to be 2 this point the only mechanical things left to do to the car are the driveshaft(easy enough)steering, and the clutch fork actuation...havent decided on whether I want cable or hydraulic...leaning toward hydraulic since it wont be much more and allows me better routing options...other than that, all my moving parts are finished(still have the cooling system, electrical, and fuel before the car can start however, then interior, body, and paint before the car is finished) I'll get some pics up this weekend
  18. I would use the cobra IRS. There are more off the shelf performance parts for it. Plus it is bolt in with a DVS kit. I have a t-bird IRS in my 67 fast back and using 17x8 bullets from the new edge mustangs. They did stick out but my body guy flared out the rear quarters,without using wheel flares. Also if you want the cobra brakes out back there is a caliper relocation bracket you will need from North Race Cars. You'll have to change the rear hubs to cobra hubs too.
  19. W000000000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  20. well, I'd like to use the cobra IRS, but there is no way I'm paying more for a kit to install that rear end than I am for the rear end itself....if I can find one, I'll build the needed brackets myself...regardless if I use a cobra IRS I would need both late model wheels and wheel flares(no big deal since I was wanting to flare my fenders anyway, I can just buy some pre-flared fiberglass front fenders when the time comes)