Engine Need help

88turbogt

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I have a 1988 gt and I am having a issue with it. When you first start driving it it runs like crap till around 3000 rpms and then it will pop though the intake and runs ok. But as soon as you get out of it. It starts running bad like it's missing. But it last for about 10 to 15 miles and clears up but it dont have the power as it did for this all started happening. But if you turn car off and restart it it will do the same thing again but last longer. Has anyone ran into this before? There motor is .30 over with f303 cam msd distributor and a msd 6la-2 box stock inj and mass air, shorty headers. Thanks
 
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08GT500

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I have a 1988 gt and I am having a issue with it. When you first start driving it it runs like crap till around 3000 rpms and then it will pop though the intake and runs ok. But as soon as you get out of it. It starts running bad like it's missing. But it last for about 10 to 15 miles and clears up but it dont have the power as it did for this all started happening. But if you turn car off and restart it it will do the same thing again but last longer. Has anyone ran into this before? There motor is .30 over with f303 cam msd distributor and a msd 6la-2 box stock inj and mass air, shorty headers. Thanks
Hi,
HmmMSD..
This a new build that was this running right previously & just suddenly began occurring?
Pop through the intake, nothing through exhaust?
Check for trouble codesWhat are they?.
Fuel pressure at the rail, fuel volume?
Pull, clean, solidify grounds. Block to battery, block to chassis, battery to EEC.
Check vacuum lines and air Intake air for vacuum leaks, bad connections, dry rotted vacuum lines.
Alternator output voltage(13.2-13.8V), battery voltage test(>/=12VDC)..
Pull the Dizzy apart, check for moisture, cracks, ? connections, SPOUT, blast w/CRC.
Run the Car outside at dusk, and look carefully for stray arc’s from the ignition system.
Temporarily bypass the 6AL box, see how the motor runs.
Further info will help!
Best!
John
 
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08GT500

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Jul 12, 2018
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I think this is not a good idea.
If you die from carbon monoxide poisoning stangnet will revoke your membership
:chinRev. 1
Purchase 8 dozen donuts and (20) large cups of coffee from DD, clearly seen from the road on a 6’x4’ folding table.
(2) Police Cars, (3) Ambulances, (3) Fire Department ladder trucks will appear within 30 minutes.
After donning the self contained breathing apparatus as instructed per the fire chief, follow the other fireman into the garage wearing his SCBA with a handheld CO detector in one hand, 3,000 Watt penlight in the other.
Start the engine and Run the Car in the garage, door closed- dark.
While you can, look for any stray electrical Arc’s from your engine.
Once the properly installed Carbon Monoxide detectors within the garage begin to alert of potentially hazardous levels, shut the engine, exit the garage per the The fire chief will then verify proper positioning and calibration of your CO detectors and your adherence of the CO detector poisoning act of 2010!
Then, issue citations for the 2 ungrounded 120V receptacles under your workbench, and the 4 120V S/G receptacles lacking GFCI protection in a structure with a concrete floor. One more for not installing an expansion fitting on the Service Entrance PVC conduit feeding the structure.
Don’t let him inside to use the bathroom, it’s only a trick to nail you for no GFCI protection in the outlet near the sink!
(Never, ever eat the last Boston cream doughnut!).
You could also wait until dusk & look for stray arc’s then, in the open air. You’ll be safe, still have some money left...and you’ll still be a SN member in good standing!
....and so will I..right?
:coff:
- In all seriousness, yes, always use (more than) adequate ventilation in a closed space with a vehicle running!
 
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:chinRev. 1
Purchase 8 dozen donuts and (20) large cups of coffee from DD, clearly seen from the road on a 6’x4’ folding table.
(2) Police Cars, (3) Ambulances, (3) Fire Department ladder trucks will appear within 30 minutes.
After donning the self contained breathing apparatus as instructed per the fire chief, follow the other fireman into the garage wearing his SCBA with a handheld CO detector in one hand, 3,000 Watt penlight in the other.
Start the engine and Run the Car in the garage, door closed- dark.
While you can, look for any stray electrical Arc’s from your engine.
Once the properly installed Carbon Monoxide detectors within the garage begin to alert of potentially hazardous levels, shut the engine, exit the garage per the The fire chief will then verify proper positioning and calibration of your CO detectors and your adherence of the CO detector poisoning act of 2010!
Then, issue citations for the 2 ungrounded 120V receptacles under your workbench, and the 4 120V S/G receptacles lacking GFCI protection in a structure with a concrete floor. One more for not installing an expansion fitting on the Service Entrance PVC conduit feeding the structure.
Don’t let him inside to use the bathroom, it’s only a trick to nail you for no GFCI protection in the outlet near the sink!
(Never, ever eat the last Boston cream doughnut!).
You could also wait until dusk & look for stray arc’s then, in the open air. You’ll be safe, still have some money left...and you’ll still be a SN member in good standing!
....and so will I..right?
:coff:
- In all seriousness, yes, always use (more than) adequate ventilation in a closed space with a vehicle running!
So I'm thinking the six extension cords I have from the laundry room 80' to my carport for the 110 ac unit and 5 fans would be in violation? :shrug:
 
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jrichker

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I have a 1988 gt and I am having a issue with it. When you first start driving it it runs like crap till around 3000 rpms and then it will pop though the intake and runs ok. But as soon as you get out of it. It starts running bad like it's missing. But it last for about 10 to 15 miles and clears up but it dont have the power as it did for this all started happening. But if you turn car off and restart it it will do the same thing again but last longer. Has anyone ran into this before? There motor is .30 over with f303 cam msd distributor and a msd 6la-2 box stock inj and mass air, shorty headers. Thanks
Ford Racing tells us that the F303 cam is only suitable for engines with Mass Airflow computer systems. The stock, non-California cars made prior to 1989 all had speed density computer systems.
See www.jegs.com/fordracing/ford_50l_cam_specs.html for more details.

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
So I'm thinking the six extension cords I have from the laundry room 80' to my carport for the 110 ac unit and 5 fans would be in violation? :shrug:
Hmm..
Plug it into a neighbors outlet?. Conserve (your) electricity, flatly deny any involvement.
:lol:
Utility training Vid. viewed in the 90’s, System response to larger than anticipated demand? Why more demand? Who cares-Transfer more sources to balance the offset.lol. Quite remarkably, 0 injured. Underwear sales rose 30% locally, lol!
System safety improves to date from this footage. Quite a ride.
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ecHddF1Rc84
 
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