Need your opinions on my hood

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 95BlueStallion, Feb 14, 2013.

  1. That was my thoughts before i even read your post.
    The hood would be disproportionate without the rest of the body kit and wheels.
  2. Well you guys have talked me out of those two options. I most likely will go with the Steeda Q series hood, as it looks very close to stock and keeps under hood temps within 10 degrees of ambient temps. Its the only heat extractor style offered for my car, and is also just different enough not to be like everyone else.

    ThatBear and aar0s like this.
  3. That thar is pretty sexy.
  4. I heartily approve!
    That's awesome, and you won't see it on every corner.

    Was looking at Cervinis ads on the plane last night... what do you think of their hood that looks like an SS hood, or 68 GT500 hood, (depending on your age)?

    Have to say though, that I think I like this one better!
  5. I am not one for a nostril style hood Husky. The SS hood looks good, but if I were going with the center scoop I would toss that Boss scoop on to be different. At first I was thinking I would just make my stock hood like that Steeda hood, but its not even close to the same. My stock raised center runs all the way down over the top of where their vent is. Also, their "cowl" section is 1/2" higher than stock, which I love because I like seeing the hood out of the windshield. Best part of all, is that their hood does the best job at lowering temps, and I have read a lot of stories about cylinder 8 overheating on the 5.0 when pushed hard for too long. After wanting to just do something different, I have now turned my attention to function.
  6. You've seen MMR's solution to the #8 cylinder problem, right?
  7. Yeah, but for $200 and no guarantee that I can get back there to install it, I would rather start by just cooling the air in the engine bay since I plan on changing up my hood anyway. Im sure one day I will get around to putting that :poo: on the engine to be safe.
  8. Quick update: I cant leave shi t alone, so I decided to make my own heat extractor, kind of modeled after the '67-68 hoods. Here is where I am so far. Naturally, I suck at welding so I have propositioned a friend to help actually weld the pieces to my hood. I cut and shaped them though. For those that want to critique my skills, thats cool but I am not trying to pretend I know what I am doing. Just figuring it out as I go. The final picture basically has the two pieces sandwiched between the top layer of the hood, and the underside bracing of the hood using "tabs" I bent over from the side material. They are just resting in place, not tacked in at all yet. Caution, weird shaped cell phone pics below. Most were snapped to show to my pops as I was working on it.





    88LX5.Oh and ThatBear like this.
  9. DAMN! I LOVE IT!!! Way to think outside the box!

    Any way to get someone to radius the bottom bends (from flat to vertical)? Would give it a little more finish, and be more like the 67-68 hood.

    Even without, I think it's going to look pretty sharp. Definitely won't be like the rest of them. Keep us posted!
  10. Thanks Husky! I am pretty pleased with how it is looking so far. I plan to put a little body filler in to smooth the seams and create a slight radius on those bottom bends. I will keep you posted as I progress. I only get about an hour out in the garage a night. Tonight I pulled the pieces out, cut off the tabs and ground the vertical sides to fit flush against the shape of the hood from underneath. I got them nice and even, so it should be very close to symmetrical (as close as a guy like me is gonna get). This way I can hold them in place while my buddy puts the first few tacks in place, and then he can burn them in without any gaps from them hanging by the tabs like they were before.


  11. It's hard to tell but it kinda looks like the vents from the Cobra hood off of my car.
    But, aren't you concerned that you'll have two (forgive the analogy) gutters that will literally allow water to pour into your engine compartment?
  12. I started off using the '03-'04 Cobra as my inspiration. I was shortly contemplating a Roush supercharger, so I made the "vents" not nearly as deep to allow the proper clearance (my hood liner fits back on like nothing is done) which now gives it more of the '67-'68 depth. Not worried about the water, cause its not my DD and has a nice spot in the garage. When I wash it, I always lightly spray the dust off the engine anyway, so it wont be much different as far as that goes. I have a mesh I will be using in the front to keep any leaves and twigs from blowing in while its parked at work on nice days, too.
  13. Oh don't get me wrong,...I applaud you for jumping into the thing and trying to make it different yourself....( Hmmm imagine me,.....a promoter of trying to be different):rolleyes:


    You do realize that your " buddy" better be one hell of a knowledgeable welder w/ regard to controlling heat on thin metal,..or it'll be different allright, a bad way. AND you will have one hell of a warped hood to try and fill. Be careful!,....It really won't matter how much he moves around,....he cannot "Burn the edges into" the underside of your hood. Hopefully he's experienced w/ thin gauge stuff,...and you're experienced w/ a hammer and the pink fungoo that requires sanding in case he ain't.;)
  14. 95BlueStallion

    You got kids or ever watched em play a video game that you knew well? That's madmike1157 right now. :D He's watching this go on... KNOWS what the pitfalls are, and is itching to get in there and take that game controller away so that he can get this done the way it's supposed to be. :lol:
  15. When welding the hood, blow cool compressed air over the weld to cool it off. Tack, cool with compressed air and move around. Another tip, DO NOT use body filler to add a curve/radius to the metal. Building up too much filler will crack when the hood gets stressed from slamming it down, lifting it awkward or road vibration. After welding the seams you can grind the curve into the weld and then apply light filler to smooth it.

    BTW, Looking good!
  16. Thanks for the tips guys! Ive never used bondo, so I was wondering about how well it will hold up. I have done way more sanding and smoothing with office furniture than I ever care to remember, so I am sure I can handle that part. My buddy is pretty decent with welding, and we are going to go slowly using tack welds, knowing you cant just roll on down the line on this thin metal. I am prepared to do a lot of grinding and smoothing. Half the fun is doing the project, not just the finished product. Also, I almost threw in the towel and bought a new hood already, so if we completely f*ck it up I will just get the Steeda hood anyway. I would rather just have something one off if I am able to make it happen.
  17. I was thinking an even bigger radius than what you could do with a grinder or with bondo... Think a dime radius. Any reputable metal fabrication shop ought to be able to do it for you. Will take a little longer, and maybe cost a hundred bucks or so, but it'll give you a single-piece, smoother transition.

    Everybody's already said it, so I'll say it again--weld slow. Figure out how long you think it should take, then double the cooling time. At my most patient pace, I still get in a hurry and warp stuff--"oh, just one more stitch..." As soon as that thought enters your brain, put the torch down and go check the baseball scores.
  18. Exactly, it should take at least 2 hours per panel to tack weld them up.
  19. Pi ss off Noobz,....I'm only offering my extensive library of stored knowledge to another member. You'd think you'd applaud my benevolence.
  20. Benefugginnevolence.