New 3.55 gears?

[BlackPearl955.0]

So I finally have time to put new gears in. (3.55) What else should I get with them?
I know I will need an istallation kit which comes with
Pinion Seal
Carrier Shims
Crush Sleeve
Pinion Nut
Cover Gasket
Ring Gear Bolts
Brush
Gear Marking Compound
Loctite

Or should I just go with the bearing kit
Front & Rear Pinion Bearing
Pinion Seal
Carrier Bearings
Carrier Shims
Differential Bearings
Crush Sleeve
Pinion Nut
Cover Gasket
Ring Gear Bolts
Brush
Gear Marking Compound
Loctite
and twice the money?
like 75 which is worth it I guess

Also I know this is a stupid question but a stock 95 gt has an 8.8" rear end right? cause I dont think it is a 7.5"

Now I run 285/35-18 in the rear for tires how much will the new gears with the tire combination mess with the speedo and odometer? and what can I do to fix this?
I dont want mystery miles on the car or at least not alot
In a way it doesnt matter considering the odometer is at 120000 but the engine in now before the rebuild was at 60000 and that was rebuilt and currently has no miles since

also I know alot of people like 3.73 gears but it is just not practicle for me to run cause I still use the car as a highway driver and most of the week driver.

 

[final5-0]

Yes ... you have a 8.8" rear end

You can get an accurate speedo reading with nothing more than
a simple driven gear change in the tail shaft of your trans with 355's

Just for curiosity I ran your tire size and trans type through one of those
calculators for 355's, 373's, 390's, & 4.10's at 70 mph

355's - 2196 rpm
373's - 2308 rpm
a difference of 112 rpm

355's - 2196 rpm
390's - 2413 rpm
a difference of 217 rpm

355's - 2196 rpm
410's - 2537 rpm
a difference of 341 rpm

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/608.shtml

Grady

 

[red95gtconvert]

Use black RTV instead of the cover gasket, seals perfect every time, also buy a hand pump to put the gear oil in and don't forget the 4 oz. bottle of friction modifier.

 

[Blackened302]

where would one acquire the friction modifier?

+1 for the black rtv!

 

[red95gtconvert]

where would one acquire the friction modifier?

+1 for the black rtv!

Any Ford stealership parts counter will have it.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

So what I am getting from the calculator info posted there is no big differance between 3.55 and 3.73 with my tire size? I still have been told to just go with 3.55 because they will be friendlier as a daily driver, but still light it up when I am at a light. Also I do not drag alot unless I get caught next to someone, I am usually running a circuit, so wouldn't 3.55 be better for that. Right now my first gear goes to maybe 30 before I get jumpy and shift, I just want to enjoy first more and give my girlfriend wiplash when she is in the car. but my second and third have alot of bite.
(any of you guys get alot of pick up trucks wanting to race?) I get too many.


Quick side note what size and or brand rotors do your recomend cause since the tire change my stopping distance has increased and I am just looking for extra little stopping power nothing too expensive like a conversion just maybe some drill/slot or something. I do not feel like changing the calipers. also the stock rotors do not look too pretty behind my rims.

 

[Zero Signal]

Yeah but you will feel a real SOTP difference. If you are staying N/A I would definitely go with 3.73 at least. If blown or turbo, or anything with huge midrange and low end torque, I would stick with 3.55.

 

[final5-0]

So what I am getting from the calculator info posted there is no big differance between 3.55 and 3.73 with my tire size? I still have been told to just go with 3.55 because they will be friendlier as a daily driver, but still light it up when I am at a light. Also I do not drag alot unless I get caught next to someone, I am usually running a circuit, so wouldn't 3.55 be better for that. Right now my first gear goes to maybe 30 before I get jumpy and shift, I just want to enjoy first more and give my girlfriend wiplash when she is in the car. but my second and third have alot of bite.
(any of you guys get alot of pick up trucks wanting to race?) I get too many.


Quick side note what size and or brand rotors do your recomend cause since the tire change my stopping distance has increased and I am just looking for extra little stopping power nothing too expensive like a conversion just maybe some drill/slot or something. I do not feel like changing the calipers. also the stock rotors do not look too pretty behind my rims.

While it is true you need tire size to accurately arrive at a value when talking
amount of rpm's to mph .........

You could have a diameter that is smaller or larger and the amount is still
gonna be so slight you are not gonna notice it as the same tire is used
with each ratio.

When working with these ratios a rule of thumb is ..............

1/4 of a turn difference will be just barely felt

You need 1/2 of a turn or more to make a difference you can really feel :Word:

I understand about what ... "T H E Y" said or told you

You just gotta ensure that they have a working knowledge or more
bluntly put .... have they actually had various ratios in an application
like you are considering to do.

The math is hard data here
and
Is not subject to opinion or bias

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

So what I am getting from the calculator info posted there is no big differance between 3.55 and 3.73 with my tire size? I still have been told to just go with 3.55 because they will be friendlier as a daily driver, but still light it up when I am at a light. Also I do not drag alot unless I get caught next to someone, I am usually running a circuit, so wouldn't 3.55 be better for that. Right now my first gear goes to maybe 30 before I get jumpy and shift, I just want to enjoy first more and give my girlfriend wiplash when she is in the car. but my second and third have alot of bite.
(any of you guys get alot of pick up trucks wanting to race?) I get too many.


....

The math may seem like not much but it is a big difference on the HWY. The difference between 3.55 and 4.10 is HUGE. 100+rpm does make a big difference in my o and every little bit at HWY speeds help. I would not recommend 4.10 to anyone with a DD. At MOST 3.90. There has to be a cutoff point somewhere...especially if you want yer gal riding in your car. Hmm.. Gal..car...Gal..car...Gal......car..........GAL.....Yep Gal....3.27's it is.

So let me re-iterate my view:

4.10 Great for QM not HWY
3.90 Great for QM, you can use 1st gear, better for HWY.
3.55-3.73 BOOMY but better HWY. 3.55's take some of the grunt out of her low end though..and shifts at weird points.
3.08s? .. never

 

[The Green GT]

When I did my gears I got the gears, install kit, and trak lock rebuilt kit all from www.buyfordracing.com. It had everything I needed minus the 8 cans of carb cleaner and the oil.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

I guess I want something that lets me yield higher torque levels at lower rpms but i want it to be friendly enough for a daily driver. now i am just stuck between 3.55 and 3.73. also i dont want to fill the tank up every hour. (the first week I got the car I filled the tank 8 times , not lying, just a little fun fact) but I guess what i am getting at is I want a good circuit gear that will give me quicker acceleration out of corners but still be able to drive on the hwy without redlining.

 

[Pokageek]

If I were you...I would go 3.73. I have had 3.55, 3.90 , 3.08 and 3.27 btw.

 

[final5-0]

I guess I want something that lets me yield higher torque levels at lower rpms but i want it to be friendly enough for a daily driver. now i am just stuck between 3.55 and 3.73. also i dont want to fill the tank up every hour. (the first week I got the car I filled the tank 8 times , not lying, just a little fun fact) but I guess what i am getting at is I want a good circuit gear that will give me quicker acceleration out of corners but still be able to drive on the hwy without redlining.

Its no more complicated than

355's - 2196 rpm
373's - 2308 rpm
a difference of 112 rpm

Maybe this would help

Get on the highway
Put it in 5th and go 2200 rpm
then
Speed up to 2300 rpm

That is the difference :Word:

You are putting too much focus on what ... they ... say

Grady

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

yea alot of times "they" piss me off one of which is my father.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

Also "3.55-3.73 BOOMY but better HWY. 3.55's take some of the grunt out of her low end though..and shifts at weird points."
so i will get quicker accel with 3.73 with a better shift points?"
kind of makes you even wonder why 3.55's exist if they are so similar.
Just so i can get some more input, what do you recommend for a "mild/high" street and circuit car?
What have you used or are currently using, some 0-60 or 5-60 times would be nice too. also how much you can use 4th and 5th to pass (even third to pass on hwy) comfortibly without getting pissed and exiting the hwy because of lack of high end torque.
I know that no one or at least no one I met wants highend torque over low, maybe I am greedy but I want a high amout of low end torque and a fairly good amount of high end torque so I can pass people without flooring it.

 

[final5-0]

Maybe this can help you relate a bit more

I did the copy and paste thing for your convenience and mine

Here is the complete thread if you wanna sift through two pages

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=686067&highlight=band

with 410s and a 5speed at like 80mph ull be hundreds of rpm away from the stock 5.0s peak torque which is made at 3800. i dont like that at all, engines spinning for nothing. ever since i got my 373s i cruise more often at 65mph then i use to on the highway, i used to cruise at 70-75 mosty before with 308s

So True ... Something to be said about what you speak of here

Thats why it is not valid to say this or that ratio is ...........
"The One ... For Everyone"

True ... at such and such speed you turn such and such rpm .......
No matter what kind of combo you got

BUT

It is all about the power band
and
how it is configured

General rule of thumb is ..........

The higher the band has been shifted .........
The steeper the ratio needs to be

RPM vrs Highway Speed is only a part of the .........
Which ratio selection issue

Or in other words .........

410's don't act the same in a little stocker Stang
as opposed to
A modded Head Cam Intake Stang

Grady



Another Very Important Consideration about ratio selection
which
I completely omitted in the info above

The length of the power band

Ever notice on Dyno Curves how a stock Stang is outta breath
around the 5K point and droppin big time

Head/Cam/Intake Combos which have decent parts selected
that pull to 6K before dropping are not all that uncommon

So ... when you see a Stock or Bolt-On Stang owner make a
statement along the lines of .............

"Steep gears made my 1st gear too short"

Remember ... That fellow has less rpm to work with

Thats why ... Don't Ya See
Steep Ratios just don't work the same for all combos

Sorry about the omission of info above
but
better late than never

btw ... about that gas mileage thing .........

I got a bit more than 19mpg on a little trip several years ago at
Cruise Speeds of 75mph ... most of the time
even with
One little jaunt where I showed my t-lites to a F body of some kind

Grady

 

[Pokageek]

I buy in heavily to the guy on here that said 3.73's will be quicker to 60mph because you DON't have to shift 3 times to get there as compared to 4.10's. Yes, it does make a difference.

Now quicker to 40mph? I dunno.

3.73's will be much better on hwy too. 200+rpmmakes all the difference in 5th. The difference between my 3.55's and 3.90's felt like night and day on the hwy. That is my EXPERIENCE, yes after having both. Long trips, the 3.55's were noticeably better. It's not just a number, its sound, rumble..all around enjoyment of the car. All around? I think 3.73's would be perfect for you. Great power on the beltway without revving too high and great power 0-60 and 5-60.

Now. If you plan on QM then go 4.10-4.30 with slicks and you will probably rock simply because of traction and beat a lot of cars. Personally though, I dont want to rev so high and be drivin around on slicks all the time..I am a streeter.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

That is my EXPERIENCE, yes after having both. Long trips, the 3.55's were noticeably better. It's not just a number, its sound, rumble..all around enjoyment of the car. All around? I think 3.73's would be perfect for you. Great power on the beltway without revving too high and great power 0-60 and 5-60.

Now I am leaning toward 3.73 but I still have some individual researd to do. but new question, how much sound difference would there be between gears? is it the higher the number, the deeper the sound?
Just want to know

 

[final5-0]

We get into these discussions and talk about our findings which is
great and helps one relate ... if they've had no experience.

However ... ALWAYS ... ALWAYS ... look at the complete application

All that talk about sound ......
Its really about the drone you can get from after market mufflers

Some do it very little
and
Some are terrible

I run the stock cat back ... purposely ... to avoid it

I absolutely loathe that sound :Word:

So you see ... for MY application
The sound of things here is of no consequence what so ever to me

Most Stangers ... like Keith ... deal with that ... cause ... sound is a MUST
and
I did all that myself ... Once upon a time

I gotta tell you ... What he speaks of ... It is very real :Word:

It usually occurs at 2K rpm with a SBF ... give or take a little

So ... Like Keith has said
Differences in ratios can make it occur during cruise speed or not.

Bottom line about application here is two choices as I see it

1) Sound (drone)
2) Performance

Performance is of very little consequence when talking about how your
exhaust system S O U N D S

Performance is of a great consequence when talking about gear ratio
selection. Having it complement your power band is critical.

Ain't is always about ... the compromises

Grady