Been on this form and YouTube for the past 2 days looking though all similar items.
Recently bought a 90 Notch, smog delete, header, intake.
What happened:
I buy the car in NC no issues, drive it around for a few months, drive it to IL. After about 2k miles I change the Oil.
*I pulled the coil plug off to reach down to pull the filter. Finished oil change no issues, I go to crank it and I hear a loud snap. I look and realized I forgot to put the coil wire back on. I put it back on and cranks no spark.
I’ve spent the next few days with a meter and incandescent test light checking everything.
Checklist:
Coil: 12.5V on both sides, no pulse with incandescent test light on “negative side”
TFI:
PIP probe- 12.5V key on, when grounding the test light to show tower and probing the pip I get spark.
Spout- 12.5V key on
Start- 12.5V when cranking
Run- 12.5 key on
Fuel:
Fuel pump kicks on at during key on
Back probe injectors, 12.5V both sides no pulse during crank with test light.
All other electronics work in the vehicle.
Recently bought a 90 Notch, smog delete, header, intake.
What happened:
I buy the car in NC no issues, drive it around for a few months, drive it to IL. After about 2k miles I change the Oil.
*I pulled the coil plug off to reach down to pull the filter. Finished oil change no issues, I go to crank it and I hear a loud snap. I look and realized I forgot to put the coil wire back on. I put it back on and cranks no spark.
I’ve spent the next few days with a meter and incandescent test light checking everything.
Checklist:
Coil: 12.5V on both sides, no pulse with incandescent test light on “negative side”
TFI:
PIP probe- 12.5V key on, when grounding the test light to show tower and probing the pip I get spark.
Spout- 12.5V key on
Start- 12.5V when cranking
Run- 12.5 key on
Fuel:
Fuel pump kicks on at during key on
Back probe injectors, 12.5V both sides no pulse during crank with test light.
All other electronics work in the vehicle.