Some of you know after milling my heads .030 I shimmed the pedestal roller rockers to gain proper lifter preload. The process went well and all is fine but I wanted to point out a conflict in the installation instructions that came with the Ford Racing rocker kit (which are actually made by Crane Cams).
Just to preface, the Ford kit came with shims but I did not realize it. Because of this, I bought a shim kit boxed in Crane Cams packaging as well and I'm glad I did.
The instructions in the Ford kit basically said to shim the rockers individually as needed. The instructions in the Crane shim kit were different. They said that because the 302W engine uses steel bridges between the intake and exhaust valves for each cylinder, you "must" put the same amount of shims under both valves of any given cylinder. They said that unequal shimming across a single bridge would cock the bridge deck and cause problems. When I read this I totally understood. Again, I'm glad I didn't realize the Ford kit had shims and bought the Crane kit which warned me of this potential problem. I think Ford needs to correct or clarify their instructions in this kit to include "bridge pivot" style applications.
Incidentally, as I did my installation I was discovering that .060 shims were the ones on each cylinder that brought me in the middle of the spec range for preload. After about half way through the process, for a second or two, I was tempted to slap the rest together without even checking but I ditched that silly idea quickly. I'm glad I did because the very last valve I checked (intake for #1 cyl) would not achieve adequate preload with the .060 shim. So, cylinder #1 got .030, all the rest got .060. All valves (with exception of cyl #1) are now at 1/2 turn down from zero lash to bolt tq specs. On cyl #1, the intake is 1/2 turn and the exhaust is 3/4 turn. So, obviously there's a machining difference in the intake position for #1 cyl. In asking around, I've been told it's not uncommon.
If any of you are wondering why I did cyl #1 last, it has to do with my preference in adjusting valves. I don't choose to do any cylinder first or last. It just depends on what position the rotating assembly is in when I begin the process. Of the various ways to do this, here is the process I like to use, especially if the intake manifold is not on the engine.
I simply look at which lifters for a given cylinder are all the way up (on lobe). When I see this on a given cylinder, it means that the other lifter for that same cylinder must be somewhere on its base circle and in position for adjustment. Its the quickest, easiest and most fail safe method in my opinion.
Here are the instructions for the Ford boxed kit and the Crane Cams boxed kit. Read them over and tell me if you don't see the same conflict I do. The Ford instructions fail to mention "bridge pivot" style such as common on the HO 5.0 in stock form.
Just to preface, the Ford kit came with shims but I did not realize it. Because of this, I bought a shim kit boxed in Crane Cams packaging as well and I'm glad I did.
The instructions in the Ford kit basically said to shim the rockers individually as needed. The instructions in the Crane shim kit were different. They said that because the 302W engine uses steel bridges between the intake and exhaust valves for each cylinder, you "must" put the same amount of shims under both valves of any given cylinder. They said that unequal shimming across a single bridge would cock the bridge deck and cause problems. When I read this I totally understood. Again, I'm glad I didn't realize the Ford kit had shims and bought the Crane kit which warned me of this potential problem. I think Ford needs to correct or clarify their instructions in this kit to include "bridge pivot" style applications.
Incidentally, as I did my installation I was discovering that .060 shims were the ones on each cylinder that brought me in the middle of the spec range for preload. After about half way through the process, for a second or two, I was tempted to slap the rest together without even checking but I ditched that silly idea quickly. I'm glad I did because the very last valve I checked (intake for #1 cyl) would not achieve adequate preload with the .060 shim. So, cylinder #1 got .030, all the rest got .060. All valves (with exception of cyl #1) are now at 1/2 turn down from zero lash to bolt tq specs. On cyl #1, the intake is 1/2 turn and the exhaust is 3/4 turn. So, obviously there's a machining difference in the intake position for #1 cyl. In asking around, I've been told it's not uncommon.
If any of you are wondering why I did cyl #1 last, it has to do with my preference in adjusting valves. I don't choose to do any cylinder first or last. It just depends on what position the rotating assembly is in when I begin the process. Of the various ways to do this, here is the process I like to use, especially if the intake manifold is not on the engine.
I simply look at which lifters for a given cylinder are all the way up (on lobe). When I see this on a given cylinder, it means that the other lifter for that same cylinder must be somewhere on its base circle and in position for adjustment. Its the quickest, easiest and most fail safe method in my opinion.
Here are the instructions for the Ford boxed kit and the Crane Cams boxed kit. Read them over and tell me if you don't see the same conflict I do. The Ford instructions fail to mention "bridge pivot" style such as common on the HO 5.0 in stock form.
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