P.M.S help

#21

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#22
Sure enough I had a fouled plug. She runs like a champ again.

Ok, here is what I had to do. First off I set everything back to 0. I put my Autologic chip back in to see if she would run like she did before the plug incident. Sure enough everything was great. So then I started playing with the PMS. Right now my settings are this:

Idle-850rpm
Start Fuel -16%
Idle Fuel +12%

Since Troy said to let the computer do the middle settings I skipped them.

WOT
2200 F +2%, T -3
4000 F +4%, T -4
6000 F +6%, T -4
7800 F +6%, T -4

Here is the thing. At idle my O2's read a bit weird. The left side goes back and forth from "R" to "L" but the passenger side stays "L". So I get .46 R or L drivers side, .19L which doesn't change on the passenger.

I also got a 4000 code at the end and hot starts still seem to be an issue.

The Autologic chip is still IN. I'm not gonna pull it until I learn this thing. So far the last 2 hours have been pretty fun now that it runs. Let me know what you guys think.
 
#23
Unless you have idle control on, putting the desired idle rpm into the PMS doesn't do anything.

Since you are having hot start surging problems, pull out more cranking fuel. Try -22% or so.

Why are you pulling out timing @ WOT?

As long as the o2's are reading, you're fine. If they're reading 0 that most likely means they've cooled down due to the longtubes. That happens sometimes with my car, i'll notice the drivers side O2 reading 0. When that happens the cruise a/f usually leans out and I can feel the car start to buck a little. Shutting the car off andf restarting it after a few seconds usually fixes that.

For your high load tune, put whatever your WOT tune is in. I had to play with my meduim load tune but it will be easier for you once you get a wideband.
 
#24
Mike it just seemed like I already have too much timing in it already. I haven't done a WOT run so I won't know what my total timing is until then. I just don't want any detonation right now while I'm tuning it hence taking timing away up top. I must have IDLE on because when I make changes in that screen the car responds. In fact it responded very well to the things I've changed. What do you think about the Low and medium sections? Leave them alone? I got a little bucking I want to get rid off.
 
#25
VibrantRedGT said:
Mike it just seemed like I already have too much timing in it already. I haven't done a WOT run so I won't know what my total timing is until then. I just don't want any detonation right now while I'm tuning it hence taking timing away up top. I must have IDLE on because when I make changes in that screen the car responds. In fact it responded very well to the things I've changed. What do you think about the Low and medium sections? Leave them alone? I got a little bucking I want to get rid off.
Click to expand...


Why do you have to do a WOT run to see the timing? Is your chip still plugged in? Is that changing the timing? I forget what the eec does, mike will have to remind us, but i know its the base + the eec addition + what the PMS(or chip) adds. That will be your total timing at whatever rpm.

The low and medium loads should have enough fuel so that it doesnt buck. But not too much so that you are wasting fuel. Add a little timing for a boost in MPG. And that should be it.

The wideband makes all this stuff a walk in the park. :hail2:
 
#27
Holy crap, I've been driving the car all day. I must say its way faster now. I may have got a handle on this thing because the manners are sooooo much better right now. I've been playing with the settings all day. The chip is still IN. Its nice because the fan come on at 140 degrees among many little things. Its nice to tune around it. The car breaks lose even in 3rd gear now. I need to get rid of the bucking at low rpm though. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
#28
BlackVert said:
how do you turn idle control off?
Click to expand...

Put in 'no' for idle control in whatever menu its in (I forget which menu thats in) Pretty simple huh :D

Joe, if you have standalone ON, then you're running 25* total from 4000+ plus what you add/subtract in. So if you're pulling out 4* thats like a timing curve for a mild blower car, get some timing in it man :D Try +6-+7*. In standalone above 4000 rpm, the timing is all in the pms and its suppose to shoot for a 12.8:1 a/f with a calibrated pro m 80mm.

For medium load you'll just have to play with it once you get a wideband. I had to add in a bit of fuel under 4000 rpm and above 4000 rpm I took a little bit out. I run 34* total from 4000+ @ WOT and under 4000 @ WOT its appx 36* total. Next time i'm in my car i'll write down my full tune and post it.

Why are you running a chip AND the pms?
 
#31
Yea, basically I'm running the chip because the fan is programed to come on early. I could do the A/C trick but it won't turn on "High" until after 190. By then my car is running like ass.

I did add fuel and timing in the 2200, 4000, 6000 and 7800rpm tables. Nothing has cured the low rpm buck though. Stand alone is on OFF. Should I enable this feature?

One of O2's seem to be out of whack. I may change them since I can get them for cheap. Anyone know what a code 4000 is? I got that on the way home again today. My manual is somewhere.

Mike what's your timing at idle? Mine is in 40's. I know this means nothing but its freaking me out.
 
#32
If one of your o2's aren't reading good its probably because they cool down from the LT's. Like I said, when that happens the car will run leaner and it will buck at cruise.

I run standalone on because if I don't then I can't change my rev limiter. My limiter is set to 6,800 now. I prefer standalone.

I dont remember how much idle timing I run, I dont think it much past 40*. I have +8* in the idle timing in the pms.

For as big as my cam is, it does not buck at all during cruise. Except when the o2 cools off and doesn't switch.
 
#33
Thanks, good to know. Also I noticed at WOT I hit 88% on the injector cycle. I'm getting ready to go for a ride here so I'll double check that. Is there a screen that shows A/F ratio? The rev limiter is set at 8000rpm right now. I have a 6000 pill in the MSD.

Mike when you get a chance check your settings. I'm curious as to what yours are. I know our computers are totally different but would still like to know.
 
#35
I drove the car about 70 miles tonight. Very pleased with how it ran. Car pulled hard to 6000rpm. Somewhere in the middle of the climb it felt like something kicked in and it really picked up.

I'll mess with more timing tomorrow. I still have a 4000 code. Does anyone know this code?
 
#36
I will go outside tomorrow afternoon and write down my tune for ya.

Thats weird that you're at 88% duty cycle. What rpm was that at? I rememebr looking once and I was at 70% around 5000 rpm. I haven't checked what its at, at 6700 rpm.

Vacuum leaks will lean you out also, do you have any?

What head gaskets do you use? It looks like mine are seeping some oil and coolant too. Im gonna change them out and probably switch to head/manifold studs but the thought of doing that job right now doesn't make me smile :)
 
#37
VibrantRedGT said:
I drove the car about 70 miles tonight. Very pleased with how it ran. Car pulled hard to 6000rpm. Somewhere in the middle of the climb it felt like something kicked in and it really picked up.

I'll mess with more timing tomorrow. I still have a 4000 code. Does anyone know this code?
Click to expand...


Thats standalone kicking in around 4k thats probably the "boost" you feel.

Check out the manual they have on AFM's site for the PMS. In the back, they have a chart that explains each code. I forget what they all are but i know for sure that they are in the back of the manual.
 
#39
Thanks for the replies guys. So removing timing will cure the low load buck or adding timing? I'm getting mixed answers on this. I can try either way though.

I saw 88% injector cycle at 6000 rpm. Does this mean I added to much fuel at WOT?

Does stand alone automatically come on after 4000rpm? I thought it needed to be turned on to take over. Right now its off.
 
#40
VibrantRedGT said:
Thanks for the replies guys. So removing timing will cure the low load buck or adding timing? I'm getting mixed answers on this. I can try either way though.

I saw 88% injector cycle at 6000 rpm. Does this mean I added to much fuel at WOT?

Does stand alone automatically come on after 4000rpm? I thought it needed to be turned on to take over. Right now its off.
Click to expand...

Yea Joe, take out timing. I knew it was one or the other but couldnt clearly remember since i havent tuned or touched the PMS in over 6 months. Definately take Grady's word for it.

It depends on the a/f ratio at 6000. If its the right ratio, than u dont have too much fuel. But if its rich, then yea, you do have too much fuel. Only way to really know i think is with a wideband.

And Stand Alone must be turned on to activate. If its off, then its still the eec's settings plus whatever you add/subtract at WOT.
 
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