pros and cons 5.0 vs 4.6
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slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
Modular 5.0, or push rod 5.0?
Push rod 5.0 makes full torque at around 3000rpm.
4.6 makes full torque at 4000 rpm. 4.10's will help that.
Both great engines that can easily surpass 200k miles if treated right.
4.6 seems to make more horsepower under forced induction applications. 450 whp safely. 5.0 don,t quote me on this, but i think they make about 350-400 safely?
H/C/I 5.0 makes around 300 rwhp.
4.6 can make close to 300 rwhp with stock heads.
Push rod 5.0 makes full torque at around 3000rpm.
4.6 makes full torque at 4000 rpm. 4.10's will help that.
Both great engines that can easily surpass 200k miles if treated right.
4.6 seems to make more horsepower under forced induction applications. 450 whp safely. 5.0 don,t quote me on this, but i think they make about 350-400 safely?
H/C/I 5.0 makes around 300 rwhp.
4.6 can make close to 300 rwhp with stock heads.
slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
I think each engine has it's pros and cons.
Regular maintenance I'd take the 4.6 any day. Easy as H to change the spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, serpentine belt, etc...
As for mods, the 5.0's are easier to mod and have more parts available (only 1 aftermarket cylinder head available at this time for the 4.6). For example, I'd never want to try and install headers on my 4.6, a cylinder head swap is also more involved because of the timing chains, etc...
Overall, however, you can't beat the driveability of the 4.6 modulars. They idle smooth as butta, are easier on gas, and if maintained right will run well over 200K miles and not leak one drip of oil. With full bolt on's and a nice set of cams, a 5-speed PI 4.6 will be very close to 300 RWHP.
Another thing to consider is torque. Get the 5.0 if you like the low down grunt. Get the 4.6 if you like to wind it out.
Regular maintenance I'd take the 4.6 any day. Easy as H to change the spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, serpentine belt, etc...
As for mods, the 5.0's are easier to mod and have more parts available (only 1 aftermarket cylinder head available at this time for the 4.6). For example, I'd never want to try and install headers on my 4.6, a cylinder head swap is also more involved because of the timing chains, etc...
Overall, however, you can't beat the driveability of the 4.6 modulars. They idle smooth as butta, are easier on gas, and if maintained right will run well over 200K miles and not leak one drip of oil. With full bolt on's and a nice set of cams, a 5-speed PI 4.6 will be very close to 300 RWHP.
Another thing to consider is torque. Get the 5.0 if you like the low down grunt. Get the 4.6 if you like to wind it out.
68stang351
Founding Member
Oh here we go!
I see this turning into a 6 page flame fest.
Anyway, I like traits of both engines, that's one reason I have one of each.
I like my 4.6 because it's smooth, sounds good, runs decent, and is reliable, and I like the car because it makes a nice daily driver.
I like my 5.0 because it's rowdy (it is modded though) sounds good (in a different way than the 4.6 though), runs real good (quicker than my 04, though to be fair the 04 is pretty much stock), and is also reliable even with aftermarket stuff all over it. I like the car because it's more raw and reminiscent of old cars like my 68, it's light, and has power, and that makes it fun. It definitely responds better to mods than a 4.6.
I guess it depends on what you really want out of a car.
I see this turning into a 6 page flame fest.
Anyway, I like traits of both engines, that's one reason I have one of each.
I like my 4.6 because it's smooth, sounds good, runs decent, and is reliable, and I like the car because it makes a nice daily driver.
I like my 5.0 because it's rowdy (it is modded though) sounds good (in a different way than the 4.6 though), runs real good (quicker than my 04, though to be fair the 04 is pretty much stock), and is also reliable even with aftermarket stuff all over it. I like the car because it's more raw and reminiscent of old cars like my 68, it's light, and has power, and that makes it fun. It definitely responds better to mods than a 4.6.
I guess it depends on what you really want out of a car.
BlackStang03
New Member
68stang351
Founding Member
Exactly right.
Take it from a guy that has both, if you want ease of mods and cheap speed and fun, buy a fox 5.0.
If you want a nice DD that looks like sex, buy a new edge 4.6.
Parts cost more for the 4.6L mustangs.
Parts cost less for the 5.0 mustangs.
The 4.6L mustangs are well known for their dependability/reliability.
In my experience the 5.0 mustangs are not known for
their dependability/reliability.
The 4.6L mustangs have higher resale value.
The 5.0 mustangs have slightly lower resale value.
Parts cost less for the 5.0 mustangs.
The 4.6L mustangs are well known for their dependability/reliability.
In my experience the 5.0 mustangs are not known for
their dependability/reliability.
The 4.6L mustangs have higher resale value.
The 5.0 mustangs have slightly lower resale value.
slick35thgt
New Member
4.6 = Strong running DD street car
5.0 = Take a few bucks, buy bolt-ons, enjoy a fast car on a budget.
I've had two Fox car's and my '99 PI, currently a 5.4L car. My '99 is definately my favorite but aside from stuff like changing the plugs, the 5.0 cars are SOOOO much easier to work with. Modular motors can really leave you pulling your hair out when you start digging into the internals vs. the pushrod 5.0.
5.0 = Take a few bucks, buy bolt-ons, enjoy a fast car on a budget.
I've had two Fox car's and my '99 PI, currently a 5.4L car. My '99 is definately my favorite but aside from stuff like changing the plugs, the 5.0 cars are SOOOO much easier to work with. Modular motors can really leave you pulling your hair out when you start digging into the internals vs. the pushrod 5.0.
billfisher
Active Member
32ValveRom
Member
Many 5.0 guys build there cars to be quick NA cars. Many 4.6 guys use forced induction to be quick. That's where the GM guys come in and say we're cheating 
Modulars are simple to work on.. I think some guys get intimidated by timing two cams but it's so simple.. Once you do one you realize it's really easy
in my opinion they are easier to work on then the old SBF.. none of the problems with water pump bolts breaking off in timing covers or oil leaks all over the place that we used to see with those.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
- 1,865
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Either one is a great motor.
The 5.0 has a way better return on power to dollars once you start doing heads/cam(s)/intake swaps.
Both are very reliable in stock form. It's pointless to try and figure out if the 5.0 or 4.6 will run longer, because chances are you will never exceed the life of either engine unless you senselessly beat the crap out of it every day.
5.0's will hold upwards of 500rwhp well tuned before the block becomes the weak point and splits.
The 2v 4.6 will hold 400-450rwhp well tuned depending on who you talk to before the pistons or rods become the weak point.
The modular block is FAR superior in strength to a regular 5.0 block. However, parts for a 4.6. are far more expensive. Two cams versus one, two timing chains, tensioners, etc. The stock GT crank is very stout, and Cobra cranks are supposedly good to 1,000rwhp or more. Won't find that in a 5.0 based engine.
5.0 parts are a dime a dozen, 4.6 parts are becoming more common, but not quite as easy to come by as 5.0 parts.
I would say they are about the same in terms of working on them. The shortblock of a 4.6 would be simpler to install than a 5.0 simply because there is no cam to put in the block. The top end of a 5.0 would be easier since the heads are smaller, lifters are in the shortblock, etc. as long as you understand how a pushrod motor works.
5.0 is way more compact of a motor, lighter as well. A 2v 4.6 is the size of some big block engines.
4.6 is much smoother running of an engine. Very refined. The 5.0 is a little rough around the edges but nothing bad.
Stock for stock, the best 5.0 put into a Mustang (say a 5.0 Cobra) will fall off in power before a PI 4.6 (99-04 GT).
The 5.0 has a way better return on power to dollars once you start doing heads/cam(s)/intake swaps.
Both are very reliable in stock form. It's pointless to try and figure out if the 5.0 or 4.6 will run longer, because chances are you will never exceed the life of either engine unless you senselessly beat the crap out of it every day.
5.0's will hold upwards of 500rwhp well tuned before the block becomes the weak point and splits.
The 2v 4.6 will hold 400-450rwhp well tuned depending on who you talk to before the pistons or rods become the weak point.
The modular block is FAR superior in strength to a regular 5.0 block. However, parts for a 4.6. are far more expensive. Two cams versus one, two timing chains, tensioners, etc. The stock GT crank is very stout, and Cobra cranks are supposedly good to 1,000rwhp or more. Won't find that in a 5.0 based engine.
5.0 parts are a dime a dozen, 4.6 parts are becoming more common, but not quite as easy to come by as 5.0 parts.
I would say they are about the same in terms of working on them. The shortblock of a 4.6 would be simpler to install than a 5.0 simply because there is no cam to put in the block. The top end of a 5.0 would be easier since the heads are smaller, lifters are in the shortblock, etc. as long as you understand how a pushrod motor works.
5.0 is way more compact of a motor, lighter as well. A 2v 4.6 is the size of some big block engines.
4.6 is much smoother running of an engine. Very refined. The 5.0 is a little rough around the edges but nothing bad.
Stock for stock, the best 5.0 put into a Mustang (say a 5.0 Cobra) will fall off in power before a PI 4.6 (99-04 GT).
Don't sleep on 4.6 4v with full exhaust, CAI, cams and tuning they can make 360+ rwhp...more expensive for sure but it can be done pretty easily, then if you add a ported intake you'll be closer to 370 rwhp with better power across the entire cure and this is without touching the heads.
Anything is possible with money though.
slick35thgt
New Member
Hm, I never had to dig into head swap with my swap, I got my 5.4 in ready to go longblock form. I just heard horror stories about getting the two cams timed. In retrospect this bit of insight was gathered from a die-hard pushrod guy, so his fear is understandable haha.
