Pulling out that 5.0 engine

[hybridEF8]

Hey guys so tomorrow I'm going to have my dad help me pull out the motor from the 5.0 I bought a few weeks ago. We have a 2 ton crane but I've never used it before. I was wondering if anyone could tell me a good way to lift the engine out and where to run the chain or what to connect the chain to. I'm planning on pulling out the engine and transmission as one piece; that will work, right?

I've still got to disconnect the PS, driveline and probably the distributor. But I don't have a timing light so I'm not excited to remove it. Any input is appreciated!

 

[No.11]

with someone helping you, it should be a piece of cake. it also helps a lot to have a load leveler so you can tilt the engine. it makes taking the engine and tranny out together real easy. i'm now about to put mine back in, but when I was pulling mine, I had my grandpa lift the hoist and pull back accordingly, while I guided the transmission out safely from underneath the car, watching for anything that might get caught in between. just make sure you

1. label where things are connected
2. buy some sandwich bags so you can put bolts in and label these bags (this is the single best piece of advice given to me that has made this whole project easier).

Good luck!

 

[jrichker]

Engine removal tips:
The engine will come out, and that is the easy part. It becomes obvious if you need to disconnect or move something. Putting it back together three weeks or three months later is a different story. You will have forgotten many small but important details.

A word of wisdom: tag every wire you disconnect and tag the place you disconnected it from with an identical tag. If you take the time to note the wire colors on the tags for the body mounted items, it will be a foolproof method of keeping track of what plugs into what. Number the tags so that you know if one is missing. Do the same thing for the vacuum lines.

Put all the bolts from each item you remove (starter, alternator, smog pump, etc.) in a separate zip bag and put a piece of paper inside the bag with the number of bolts, their sizes and the item they went to. Then you can throw the zip bagged bolts in a 5 gallon plastic pail and still keep up with them. Zip bag each of the small items and put a piece of paper inside identifying the item and where it goes.

Some removal tips...
Unbolt the headers from the engine, but keep the funny looking plates bolted to the head exhaust flanges. They are useful as lifting ears to attach the hoist chain. Do not use bolts threaded into the aluminum intake manifold to lift the engine.

You will need to disconnect the headers from the H pipe and the H pipe from the mufflers. This will be one of your big challenges. The bolts are usually rusted enough to require application of PB Blaster and extreme force. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster and let them sit overnight if possible. Buy a thick walled 6 point socket to attack the header and H pipe bolts. Depending on who was the last person to remove the nuts and bolts, they are either 11/16" or 5/8" heads. Be prepared to apply a propane torch to the nuts if they threaten to round off even with a 6 point socket.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent sparks and short circuit damage if you ground out something electrical while removing it.

Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.

Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.

5 speed transmission cars:
Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle.

Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Vacuum Diagram 87-93 Mustangs
The diagram says 88 Mustang, but except for the vacuum line connected to the MAP/Baro sensor, it is the same for all 5.0 Mustangs from 87-93. The 89-93 Mustangs vent the MAP/Baro sensor to open air.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

 

[hybridEF8]

Thanks for the input guys. I labeled every connection using tape and a sharpie and organized and labeled all my bolts and such in plastic boxes (I used ziplock bags on my last build and didn't like it). I don't have a load leveler unfortunately is it necessary? I thought I'd just use my hands lol. I could even get a third person.

I'm not sure what plates are under the exhaust manifolds since I haven't taken them off yet. Honestly I was just going to keep the headers on there since they seem like a pain to remove at the moment. My dad thought we could run two chains, one on each side under the headers and use them to lift the engine but I'm not sure if they can handle the weight. Obviously I can't run the chains under the engine either to avoid damaging the old pan but I haven't looked too hard yet. I'll have a look at it one more time.

 

[ID89GT]

I usually go off one of the back bellhousing spots, and where the power steering bracket bolts go into on the front of the driver side head.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I pulled the original engine out of that white '89 and installed this one using the factory lift loops and no load leveler. I did the same thing in reverse when I sold the car.

When that engine was ready to go into my '68, I got a $30 load leveler and bolted the chains onto diagonal ends of the heads.

Those Thermactor ports are probably loaded up with carbon on the firewall side of your engine, though. Mine have the Thermactor plugs in the photo above because my '68 has no air injection.

 

[hybridEF8]

Thanks for the pics, they helped out. We ended up securing the chain to two bolts and winding it around the transmission too.

We pulled it out with the transmission attached, but the last two pictures are with the motor and trans separated. And that's where it'll sit until the car's painted.

 

[fredfifty]

Engine removal tips:
The engine will come out, and that is the easy part. It becomes obvious if you need to disconnect or move something. Putting it back together three weeks or three months later is a different story. You will have forgotten many small but important details.

A word of wisdom: tag every wire you disconnect and tag the place you disconnected it from with an identical tag. If you take the time to note the wire colors on the tags for the body mounted items, it will be a foolproof method of keeping track of what plugs into what. Number the tags so that you know if one is missing. Do the same thing for the vacuum lines.

Put all the bolts from each item you remove (starter, alternator, smog pump, etc.) in a separate zip bag and put a piece of paper inside the bag with the number of bolts, their sizes and the item they went to. Then you can throw the zip bagged bolts in a 5 gallon plastic pail and still keep up with them. Zip bag each of the small items and put a piece of paper inside identifying the item and where it goes.

Some removal tips...
Unbolt the headers from the engine, but keep the funny looking plates bolted to the head exhaust flanges. They are useful as lifting ears to attach the hoist chain. Do not use bolts threaded into the aluminum intake manifold to lift the engine.

You will need to disconnect the headers from the H pipe and the H pipe from the mufflers. This will be one of your big challenges. The bolts are usually rusted enough to require application of PB Blaster and extreme force. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster and let them sit overnight if possible. Buy a thick walled 6 point socket to attack the header and H pipe bolts. Depending on who was the last person to remove the nuts and bolts, they are either 11/16" or 5/8" heads. Be prepared to apply a propane torch to the nuts if they threaten to round off even with a 6 point socket.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent sparks and short circuit damage if you ground out something electrical while removing it.

Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.

Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.

5 speed transmission cars:
Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle.

Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Vacuum Diagram 87-93 Mustangs
The diagram says 88 Mustang, but except for the vacuum line connected to the MAP/Baro sensor, it is the same for all 5.0 Mustangs from 87-93. The 89-93 Mustangs vent the MAP/Baro sensor to open air.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

glad i found this! If im only taking the motor out, im assuming i dont need to touch the h pipe, trans, or drive shaft?

 

[General karthief]

Yea, pretty much, but I recommend taking the driveshaft and have new u joints and have it balanced, good time to change the trans fluid too.

 

[fredfifty]

i cant believe the amount of that one would "might as well" change if swapping motor...it adds up lol i already changed the trans fluid prior to swapping the motor so thats good. i will see about changing the u joints as well..how can you tell they are bad?

 

[General karthief]

Loose, movement at the caps, squeaks when backing up or just old and slinging grease, get the drive shaft balanced too, my advice.

 

[mikestang63]

Now that the engine is out. you will notice all the grease, grime, bad paint, all the wiring that can be tucked and re routed., etc.. Time to break out the pressure washer, brushes, grinder, sanding blocks...... worst thing you want to do is put a nice new engine in a filthy, crappyu looking engine bay.. If you get ambitious then you can do some Scott Rod panels