Questions Questions Questions...

[Adams91LX]

So I finished my 4 lug TC rear end swap... great stuff...

I'll take pics tomorrow. While I was under the car I went ahead and put the 73mm MK 7 rotors up front, 98 V6 master cylinder, I gutted the prop valve completely and used a fitting to run the 3-2 conversion, I ended up having to bend my own driver side front brake line, Steeda Sport Springs all around.

My brake pedal feel while driving is really spongy at first pump, the first pedal depression is super weak, the second pump is much stronger and by the third i can't put the brake to the floor.... that's every time... So I'm going to take my car to a brake shop on Tuesday or Monday if anything is open. I want them to check for leaks... But if everything checks out, and the pedal feels the same, should I upgrade the brake booster? What would cause the pedal to feel like it does? It eventually has pressure, just not until you pump a few times.. any thoughts?

Also... my front tires rub pretty bad now... Stock suspension minus the Steeda Sports. Running a 16x8 up front, not sure on the back spacing, could be 15mm offset? 245/50-16 tire on all 4 corners. Other than new rims/tires or a K-member... are there any options to get rid of the rubbing up front?

Also... I thought I could just use some autozone special 93 cobra brake cables... but they were way way way too long.. took them back and picked up a set of stock cables... still no luck... so should I have just picked up these in the first place?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=M2809A 1&comp=LRS

I'm sorry that I dont have pictures tonight... it looks so good now the stance is perfect... now just a few bugs to work out....

Adios SN


Oh yeah... Saw this piece of crap today. He looked over and nodded at me when we were at a red light, he thought I was checking out his car.. I put my hand up to the window, gave him the thumbs down shaking my head in disapproval... ugh. From what I could tell it was chopped top, the door windows slid backwards, taillights were either taped in white electrical tape, or painted by a 3rd grader with narcolepsy, same treatment to the front headlights too...

 

[FrankenStang]

OMFG...

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

That might just be the worst one ever. If you ever see that car again you MUST get more pics. That's the stuff that legends are made of.

 

[blacknsilvr]

And this fool is riding around saying ive got the best lookin stang out there........and proud.......trying to pick up chicks.......and owns a mullet.......

 

[LaserSVT]

Wow, that was the worst one I ever saw

Anyway, as for the brakes it sounds like a loose banjo bolt or a cracked line.
What did you use to bend the line?

 

[Adams91LX]

a brake line bender... or rather just a tubing bender... i did end up having a banjo bolt not completely sealing... but i fixed that. the pedal feel is still spongy the first pump. What would cause it to be able to build pressure and hold pressure, but not at first pump? I'm thinking either booster or MC? Opinions....

Oh yeah.. and a teaser pic
View attachment 256732

 

[jrichker]

You need to seriously bleed the brakes. A pedal that pumps up is a sign of air in the brake system.

You can use the stock 5.0 booster if it is in good working condition. No need to replace the booster.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with
73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.

Reman 73 mm front calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 (two calipers) local auto parts are less that $25 each. The resulting brake system is super for the street driven car and should have been standard production equipment.

Emergency brake notes:
See Mustang Central.net FMS M2300K Brake Install for help with the emergency brake. The red words
link to some very useful photos on how to modify the handle. The stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.

Emergency brake cable parts Summit or Jegs or .late model restoration
M-2809-A* Parking Brake Cable (need 2)
M-2810-A* Parking Brake Cable (short cable that attaches to the parking brake handle)

I recommend that you use reman calipers and use the calipers from the Turbo Coupe axle for cores to return.
The parking brake mechanism and the caliper slides tend to lockup and freeze on the Turbo Coupe brakes after they sit for a long time in the junkyard.


Garden Sprayer Pressure Bake Bleeder - this is the cat’s meow when it comes to bleeding brakes…

1 each pump type garden sprayer, 1 - 1 ½ gallon capacity (size doesn’t matter much, it just has to be cheap and small enough to be easy to work with)
6-10 feet 3/8” clear plastic tubing
1 each ¼” brass pipe tee
1 each ¼” pipe to 3/8: hose adapter
1 each pressure gauge 0-60 PSI or so – all you’ll ever need is 5- 10 PSI, so the gauge range doesn’t have to be high.
1 each large rubber stopper – this is the hard part to find. It may take some searching to find one that is a snug push fit to the inside of the filler port on the master cylinder. You can use silicone rubber to seal a brass fitting to an old master cylinder cap, but they tend to leak too much.
Home Depot or Lowes has some ¼” brass pipe stock that is continuously threaded in the electric lamp repair department, along with the brass nuts that go with it. This is better than a pipe nipple, since the nuts can be used to secure the pipe in the cap or stopper.
OR if you can’t find the threaded pipe stock,
1 each ¼” nipple, 1 ½”- 2” long

The rubber stopper needs a hole drilled in it for the ¼” pipe nipple or threaded pipe stock. After you drill the hole, use some silicone gasket sealer to seal the pipe nipple as you push it into the rubber stopper. If you used the threaded pipe stock, use the nuts to secure the stock into the stopper.

If you can’t find a suitable rubber stopper, an old master cylinder cap can be used. Drill a ½” hole in the center for the pipe fitting. Cut the brass pipe stock to about 1”- 1 ½” long, the exact length isn’t too important. Push it through the hole in the master cylinder cap and thread one nut on top of the pipe stock where it sticks though the cap. Put another nut on the other side of the cap to lock the pipe stock in place. Apply some silicone rubber gasket sealer to both sides and when it is dry, screw the ¼” pipe that sticks out of the top of the cap into the tee.

Remove the sprayer hose and wand from the garden sprayer. You may find it easier just to cut the sprayer hose off short and connect it to the 3/8” plastic tubing. The idea is that the 3/8” tubing connects to the pickup tube inside the sprayer in a reliable, leak proof fashion. Another alternative is to remove the spray nozzle from the end of the spray wand and connect the 3/8” tubing to the wand. This leaves the hand valve in place and may be useful to start/stop the flow of brake fluid.

The 3/8” plastic tubing connects to the pipe tee using a push on hose barb type adapter. The pipe tee has one port for the gauge, one for the 3/8” hose and the other to connect to the rubber stopper or master cylinder cap that you modified.

Fill the pump sprayer with a quart of brake fluid. Set the garden sprayer on the ground and screw the pump handle down tight, and pump until brake fluid fills the plastic tubing. Then put the modified stopper or master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and pump slowly to make sure that nothing leaks or pops loose. No leaks, continue pumping until you get 5-10 PSI. Put a 6”-12” length of clear plastic tubing on the bleeder ports. Then open the bleeder ports on the wheel cylinders one at a time and bleed until the bubbles are gone. I use a 2 liter soda bottle with a coat hanger to catch the fluid . DO NOT REUSE THE OLD BRAKE FLUID. Repeat the process until you have finished all 4 wheels. You will have to pump the sprayer several times to maintain the 5-10 PSI needed to do the job. When finished bleeding, loosen the pump handle to relieve the pressure, remove the stopper/modified master cylinder cap and test the pedal.

Hopefully the pictures below will show. The free photo hosting service I have them on isn't too reliable at times.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My brake pedal feel while driving is really spongy at first pump, the first pedal depression is super weak, the second pump is much stronger and by the third i can't put the brake to the floor.... that's every time... So I'm going to take my car to a brake shop on Tuesday or Monday if anything is open. I want them to check for leaks... But if everything checks out, and the pedal feels the same, should I upgrade the brake booster? What would cause the pedal to feel like it does? It eventually has pressure, just not until you pump a few times.. any thoughts?

Tell-take signs of air still in the system

 

[Cobra912]

forget the questions....sorry.........but what the hell was that! I puked all over my computer desk after seeing that. License plate PROTO......? PROTO what ? PROTO TURD?

 

[LaserSVT]

Tell-take signs of air still in the system

Tell-tale?