Scratching my head at this one

[drilzzz]

This is my first post on this forum or any forum and I hope that this one challenges the community and also resolves the problem for me.

I have a 1997 GT SOHC with an automatic transmission mad with a stalling problem. Some background: I noticed that the car would idle a bid low and occasionally when I would shift gears the idle would drop really low and sometimes cause the car to stall out. With the addition of a cracked intake manifold that was leaking fluid into my 4th spark plug and causing major power loss. I have replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, intake manifold with new upper and lower gaskets, and placed a used set of ignition coil packs recently (car ran fine since i out the coil packs in). Today after finishing the intake manifold job I started the car and everything was fine. I was able to let it warm up and take it for a short test drive. The car ran great. I drove home and park the car in order to inspect for leaks or what not... none found. I decided to take another test drive... the car started fine and idled fine in Park and Neutral... but when put in R, D, 1, or 2 the car just dies out. When in Park or Neutral I can rev up the engine and no stalling or power loss. The engine light is not on and I have not been able to pull codes since i can't drive to Autozone. I checked the MAF sensor and its clean. I was thinking it may have something to do with IAC or Torque Converted from looking at other post. Please help me with this one. This is my daily driver. Thanks for any help.

 

[wmburns]

Check for vacuum leaks. Even the smallest leak can cause problems.

After the battery has been removed, the idle trim values have to be re-learned.

Allow the car to idle in park for a FULL MINUTE with the AC off. Next allow the car to idle for a FULL MINUTE with the AC on. This should speed up the re-learning process.

If this does not help, then it will be necessary to diagnose the IAC.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

torque converter staying locked in?

i had an olds that did the stalling like you are talking about.

try cutting the wire for the lockup (somewhere you can easily splice back together if that isnt the problem) if it stops stalling, you found your problem.

 

[RedDaemon]

This is my first post on this forum or any forum and I hope that this one challenges the community and also resolves the problem for me.

I have a 1997 GT SOHC with an automatic transmission mad with a stalling problem. Some background: I noticed that the car would idle a bid low and occasionally when I would shift gears the idle would drop really low and sometimes cause the car to stall out. With the addition of a cracked intake manifold that was leaking fluid into my 4th spark plug and causing major power loss. I have replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, intake manifold with new upper and lower gaskets, and placed a used set of ignition coil packs recently (car ran fine since i out the coil packs in). Today after finishing the intake manifold job I started the car and everything was fine. I was able to let it warm up and take it for a short test drive. The car ran great. I drove home and park the car in order to inspect for leaks or what not... none found. I decided to take another test drive... the car started fine and idled fine in Park and Neutral... but when put in R, D, 1, or 2 the car just dies out. When in Park or Neutral I can rev up the engine and no stalling or power loss. The engine light is not on and I have not been able to pull codes since i can't drive to Autozone. I checked the MAF sensor and its clean. I was thinking it may have something to do with IAC or Torque Converted from looking at other post. Please help me with this one. This is my daily driver. Thanks for any help.

check the vacuum hoses in the rear of the block apparently i forgot to reconnect one when i fired up my car during my intake project. my dad was standing over the engine bay and was able to remedy the problem. perhaps one was not reconnected tightly enough

 

[wmburns]

torque converter staying locked in?

i had an olds that did the stalling like you are talking about.

try cutting the wire for the lockup (somewhere you can easily splice back together if that isnt the problem) if it stops stalling, you found your problem.

Did the transmission work before the work was done? If so, I think is is unlikely that the TC has failed.

However, there is an easier way to rule out a locked up TC. Simply disconnect the electrical connection to/from the transmission. Since the problem occurs immediatly, it is not necessary to drive it in order to confirm the problem.

I had a 1996 that was impossible to drive after disconnecting the battery until the idle trim re-learn procedure was done.

 

[drilzzz]

Thanks for the quick reply guys I really appreciate it. I will double check all lines for a vacuum leaks and try out the idle trim re-learn procedure. Also, where can I buy one of those Stethoscopes with the attachment in order to isolate vacuum leaks?

wmburns... I have not dabbled too much in transmission work so forgive me but where can I find the electrical connection for the transmission?

Once I unplug the electrical component and the car no longer dies out when put in gear then I would have to only replace the Lock-up Solenoid?

My neighbors must really love me by now... I have been working on my car for the last two days in my complex. Hopefully I can squeeze one more day in there.. haha

 

[drilzzz]

Oh I also forgot to mention that occasionally the car would literally hum loudly and cause a vibration... it only happens when the car is not moving. It has happened when the car is in Park and in Drive (when it actually was able to be put in drive without dying). I usually press the gas and the problem would go away. I once caught the hum while I had the hood open and the hum/ vibration is more apparent on the passenger side. This might be a different problem altogether but I figured to mention it.

 

[drilzzz]

Newbies: Car shuts off when put in gear (R, D, 2, 1) but idles good in Park and Neutral. Problem was almost nonexistent on a cold start but when it was done otherwise the problem was becoming consistent. I replaced a few things in order to figure out what may cause this problem.


Update: I replaced the IAC valve with a new one from Autozone for around $66. I have had this part in now for about a half day now and the car seems to be doing a lot better. I let the new valve adjust itself as stated above and have done a couple test drives and have had no problems.