I have a question, I recently went to a mustang specialist to ask what he recomended for my 93 notch (bone stock with full exhaust) that keeps heating up with this Texas heat and he mentioned the thermostat, which I already changed out. Then I asked him about converting to an electric fan and asked him what he thought, he replied no way! stock fan is the way to go, he said thats the best way to keep my engine cool. I always thought electric fan was the way to go???
Stock clutch fan or electric?
- Thread starter mgarcia7
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Stock mechanical fan is pretty efficient. It robs some power, but it will pull the most air through a radiator
ratio411
Founding Member
Check the lower radiator hose.
If it doesn't have a spring inside, it can get soft and suck closed when you are driving.
Have you had the car for more than just this summer?
I ask because if this was an 'every summer' problem, I would assume you would have addressed it long ago. If it is a progressively worse thing, then it is a matter of your cooling system degrading.
I run 160* stats on all our 5.0s, along with the thickest stock radiators available, and I only use lower hoses with springs inside (or install my own). These are the important things that will give you a good base for cooling. Also, if you run the stock mechanical fan, make sure you have a fan shroud and that the clutch is working, if so equipped. Lack of a fan shroud garrantees running hot.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that timing and spark plug heat range can cause overheating as well.
Make sure someone hasn't gotten experimental with heat range or have the timing bumped up a bit too high.
If it doesn't have a spring inside, it can get soft and suck closed when you are driving.
Have you had the car for more than just this summer?
I ask because if this was an 'every summer' problem, I would assume you would have addressed it long ago. If it is a progressively worse thing, then it is a matter of your cooling system degrading.
I run 160* stats on all our 5.0s, along with the thickest stock radiators available, and I only use lower hoses with springs inside (or install my own). These are the important things that will give you a good base for cooling. Also, if you run the stock mechanical fan, make sure you have a fan shroud and that the clutch is working, if so equipped. Lack of a fan shroud garrantees running hot.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that timing and spark plug heat range can cause overheating as well.
Make sure someone hasn't gotten experimental with heat range or have the timing bumped up a bit too high.
ratio411
Founding Member
Don't quote me, but I want to say I have heard 7 hp somewhere.
Electric fans are less effecient, but can increase hp from less parasitic loss.
However, if you have electric fans for the power increase, you need to hook them in for automatic cycling with a thermostatic switch, but also install a manual cut-off switch. If you want max power, you need to override them into the off position when you make a pass at the track (or whenever you need that extra 7 hp for a moment), otherwise the fans running will drag down the alternator, which will bring your parasitic loss right back into play.
ratio411
Founding Member
Something to consider:
Your engine only needs a fan/fans running when you are traveling less than about 40 mph.
After that, incoming air does the work. (Assuming you have all the proper airflow directionals in place, such as the air foil under the radiator support or any other stock panels to direct air.)
Your engine only needs a fan/fans running when you are traveling less than about 40 mph.
After that, incoming air does the work. (Assuming you have all the proper airflow directionals in place, such as the air foil under the radiator support or any other stock panels to direct air.)
The E fan saves very little power contrary to popular belief.
Is it worth it? IMO not unless you have bolted on every other thing first. By the time you set it up, it's like $400, to get 5hp, not exactly the most sensible way to spend money.
Imagine this, guys spend this money on the E fan setup and they get their 5hp, that same $400 could have been spent on better heads gaining 20-30rwhp more than their gt40p heads.
No logic in it.
It's a terrible bang for your buck mod, not only that, it's unpredictable because seems everyone likes to use different fans.
Is it worth it? IMO not unless you have bolted on every other thing first. By the time you set it up, it's like $400, to get 5hp, not exactly the most sensible way to spend money.
Imagine this, guys spend this money on the E fan setup and they get their 5hp, that same $400 could have been spent on better heads gaining 20-30rwhp more than their gt40p heads.
No logic in it.
It's a terrible bang for your buck mod, not only that, it's unpredictable because seems everyone likes to use different fans.
Along the lines of my first thought. I missed where it was mentioned that the issue was only while going slow or stopped..................
ratio411
Founding Member
Maybe it's just me, but I can go to the yard and get a monster fan from a Lincoln or Taurus for 10 bux, and then wire it up with a $25 adjustable thermostatic switch. All it takes is some time and fitting. Definately not 400 bux.
I have done it before with a $7 non-adjustable thermostatic switch, but they were unreliable.
ratio411
Founding Member
If anyone wants a dual fan setup, the LS1 Z28 (98-02) fans fit up to a Fox radiator very nicely.
I test fitted a set to my son's car, and it would actually be easier than the other single fans I have, as far as mounting, but I am not interested in the more complex wiring. So the LS1 fans will stay on the shelf for another project.
I test fitted a set to my son's car, and it would actually be easier than the other single fans I have, as far as mounting, but I am not interested in the more complex wiring. So the LS1 fans will stay on the shelf for another project.
I think he means with a good variable speed fan controller, and a 3G alt conversion as well.
I agree though it can be done for cheap, and most of us had the 3G conversion done already anyway.
Yup.
The DCC controller is a couple hundred, fan in my area is going to be at least $50 (likely more), ford alternator is at least $100(used).
Doing it right and making it reliable, just isn't that cheap.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
IMHO, a good percentage of 94's increase in HP is because they got better software for the EEC. The Fox software was 20 pounds of **** crammed into a 10 pound can. For the Foxes, Ford wanted to save their $5->$10 per EEC by staying with a small PROM.
Also, the 94's got better alternators - 3G. So, less HP loss.
I find it interesting when people in the forums claim that a 100amp alternator takes only x-HP by quoting very basic and simplistic equations. I'm sure that the car manufactures of the Prius, Volt, etc would pay MILLIONS to get an alternator even close to that efficiency.
I installed an electric fan because #1 my engine would take to long to get to operating temperature with that mechanical fan blowing cold air onto the cold engine, even though the thermostat is closed at startup and should warm up quick, my engine didn't. #2 my engine temps went way too high sitting in virginia summer traffic with the mechanical fan and automatic trans, with the electric fan i can sit all day long now in summer heat. #3 I like when its cool out the electric fan stays off at cruising speeds. My 460 tbird would overheat in summer traffic with the mechanical fan and built c6 trans, with a dual flexalite electric fan setup i can idle all day long at 198 degrees on the temp gauge. A mechanical fan spins too slow at idle to cool a modified engine in summer traffic so modifiy that engine so you have a reason to overheat.
IMHO, a good percentage of 94's increase in HP is because they got better software for the EEC. The Fox software was 20 pounds of **** crammed into a 10 pound can. For the Foxes, Ford wanted to save their $5->$10 per EEC by staying with a small PROM.
Also, the 94's got better alternators - 3G. So, less HP loss.
I find it interesting when people in the forums claim that a 100amp alternator takes only x-HP by quoting very basic and simplistic equations. I'm sure that the car manufactures of the Prius, Volt, etc would pay MILLIONS to get an alternator even close to that efficiency.
OK: 14 volts at 30 amps (constant draw) = 420 Watts. That's about .58 HP without taking into consideration the efficiency of the alternator.
So how much HP is necessary to generate the 420 watts with an alternator of the type commonly found on most automobiles?
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