T-5 transmission swap on jackstands. is it possible?

[gcomfx.com]

I have had a hard time finding the output shaft seal for 5 speed cars. I just ask for a 93 AOD auto. seal and it fits fine and works fine.

Getting the car as high as Paul showed us is what you want, if your stands go that high. I didn't have the cars I've worked on that high and the trick is to pull it out so the highest part of the bellhousing comes out through the front wheel well area. Also, if you have a short set and tall set of stands, use the taller ones in the rear so you can support the car by the axle. Alot more sturdy IMO and when you go to reconnect your exhaust, the rear will be loaded down and you don't have to worry about pipes hitting when you let the car back down.

I have BIG stands. I raise the car within an inch of how high my floor jack will go. If I don't, the bell housing won't clear the flexplate. And that's with the tranny laying on a piece of carpet. No way to get it out, and keep it on my floor jack.

Kind of a PITA, but I have a strip of carpet I slide under the car, lower the tranny off the jack on to it. Then I pull on the carpet, and it slides right out.... and doesn't scratch the pan up.

We didn't have to go near that high to get a manual out of a Fox body.

 

[99FiveOh]

the T5's have a seperate bellhousing so when you pull them apart they come out with ease.

I was talking about bringing the tranny out the side of the car and let the top of the bellhousing slide between the tire and lower fender area. I had my jack stands maxed out so I had to get creative!

 

[95mustang_gt]

I finish my swap 3 weeks ago.I had two tall jacks in the front and 2 small in the back.I would get a buddy to help for the clutch and installing the t5.I have longtubes so i had to unbolt the passenger side header and it was still hard to squeze the fat aode out still.It will all payoff in the in.Make sure you have tinsnips to make the shifter hole bigger.

 

[bill302]

thanks bill

my exhaust is gonna be a bia. it will come loose at the shorty's and at the x pipe but everything else is welded.....

thats gonna cause a problem isnt it?

if the exhaust comes apart right before the mufflers it will work....

 

[blksn955.o]

Very do-able like said. I have had mine out 2x's and helped a buddy remove/install a t45 in his 2000gt. The worst so far was a truck AOD by my self in the winter (ice all around me) ...the damn thing wouldnt fit in the garage.

Remember to undo the shifter boot and handle, the rear DS bolts are 12pt 12mm and a PITA...you may need a burnz-o-matic propane torch to heat them up to break them loose. The air pump hose and the first time I took off the stock H was a PITA so goober them up with wd40/pantherP!SS/liquid wrench. Removing the T5 from the bell is the best way IMHO. Plus you will have to re-align stuff anyway if you do a clutch/rear main anyway and that will mean it has to come off the T5 anyway.

If you need more room with my buddies 2000gt we used the big landscape retaining wall blocks and stacked them 2 at each corner and put the jacks on them to get another 4-6in saftly without having the jacks maxed out. Just make sure the bocks base holds the jackstands base fully.

 

[drewzx3]

HOw long did it take everyone to do the swap? Im going to be doing my swap on a lift so it should go a little faster.

 

[fiveoho]

lots of good info you guys are giving. much appreciated.


i bought a cobra t5. the bell and flyweel come with it. i had the clutch replaced about 1.5 year ago and i dont recall getting the flywheel re surfaced. several have told me to not resurface it now and just put the trans in place.....dont even swap bells.

but if i want to do a rear seal, the bell has to come off anyway? and if i do that, shouldnt i resurface the flywheel?

 

[99FiveOh]

I somehow got the idea that this was about a AODE to T5 swap thread. If you're removing a T5 it's cake work. Just take out the 4 bolts holding it to the bell and pull it out. You can probably lift it down by hand, it weighs 76 lbs -/+. I always get rid of that down pipe from the smog, but some places have emissions and can 't do that.

 

[Adam95GT]

I did my clutch on tiny jackstands replaced my rear main and pilot bearing... if your doing the pilot bearing... rent a slide hammer... makes it alot easier here is some pics of the room you will have to work with...

Once the trans is out you can even get a nice seat...

 

[gcomfx.com]

Dood... not one but TWO crotch shots?

 

[fiveoho]

I somehow got the idea that this was about a AODE to T5 swap thread. If you're removing a T5 it's cake work. Just take out the 4 bolts holding it to the bell and pull it out. You can probably lift it down by hand, it weighs 76 lbs -/+. I always get rid of that down pipe from the smog, but some places have emissions and can 't do that.

partially my fault. could have been more descriptive.

easy huh? i like the sound of that. not too bad to do bell housing and flywheel also?

i have no emissions here

 

[fiveoho]

thanks for the pics adam ( i will over look the crotch shots )

looks like you done alot of work with little space.

 

[MustangGT95]

I have done several tranny swaps in the driveway on Z28's. Autos SUCK. Much heavier than a t5. I couldn't slide the trannys under the car while they were on the jack. However, I had a genious Idea. I stuck the tranny on a skateboard and slid it under. Then had someone help me get it onto the jack.

The autos are pretty heavy but I installed a T5 into a 97 3.8 firebird alone. It didn't weigh much at all.

 

[Adam95GT]

yea it was my first time ever touching a trans / clutch... so i did a few things the hard way... make sure you drop down the cross member to get to the 2 top bellhousinng belts with a few long extentions and universials... i didnt and and to sit on top of the motor with the ditsy up my ass and try to get at them from up there... but it really wasnt that bad... i mean id do it again...


also make sure you have 2 small jacks it helps... i just put a floor jack under the trans and lowered it and pulled it off.. then dropped it down.. it was really easy to pull out on the jack... also rember to have a plastic bag and rubber band handy for the tail end of the trans... the EZ slider ones kick ass because you can just zip it up around the back of the trans... also dont forget to put the sheild back on... that will save you a bunch of time... i made a bunch of stupid mistakes... lol...
It may be easier to take off the bellhousing but i did it in one shot... trans and housing together

 

[99FiveOh]

it's not only easier IMO to take it out in 2 pieces, but it makes it hella lot easier to put it back! Makes it easier to line up everything..

 

[black94gt50]

Also a good thing to look at is the shape the bearing retainer is in, because the stock one if i recall is made of aluminum, and alot of times they are worn out, i think you can buy a stell retainer for something like 30 bucks.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I've unfortunately done the trans swap on jackstands more times than I could count. It's not too bad as long as you get the front end up pretty high. I usually lift mine somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-18 inches front and rear, probably as high as Paul (gcomfx) had his in that pic. If your rear main seal isn't leaking, I'd probably want to leave it alone, personally. Just be sure to raise it up pretty high, and it should be straightforward from there.

 

[MustangGT95]

I have done swaps without having the rear end up at all. Long as the bellhousing of the auto will clear its easy to do IMO.

 

[99FiveOh]

yeah, but it gets pretty tight under there if the rear is still down. And with the rear off the ground it makes getting the D/S bolts off alot easier!

When I did my first Mustang trans swap, it took me about 2 days, but after having converted 4 cars to 5 speed and swapped out at least 7 or 8 trannies/clutches total, I can get it done in about 3 or 4 hours. You get good after a few trials!

 

[fiveoho]

I've unfortunately done the trans swap on jackstands more times than I could count. It's not too bad as long as you get the front end up pretty high. I usually lift mine somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-18 inches front and rear, probably as high as Paul (gcomfx) had his in that pic. If your rear main seal isn't leaking, I'd probably want to leave it alone, personally. Just be sure to raise it up pretty high, and it should be straightforward from there.

Unfortunately my rear main is leaking...