Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread
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Trans out, flexplate swapped, and transmission back in. All in about 2 hours. By myself, on the floor, with a floor jack.
Unfortunately getting good at this part.
Only dropped the transmission on my hand once!
Finally think it’s in there for good. I was able to toss in a converter spacer that I had honestly forgotten the first go around after I got wrapped up in the converter not bolting up. Which it does now, nice 1/8” gap at the pads and all that jazz.
Fix leaky brake line
Swap pinion flange
Fill fluids
Adjust shifter
Unfortunately getting good at this part.
Only dropped the transmission on my hand once!
Finally think it’s in there for good. I was able to toss in a converter spacer that I had honestly forgotten the first go around after I got wrapped up in the converter not bolting up. Which it does now, nice 1/8” gap at the pads and all that jazz.
Fix leaky brake line
Swap pinion flange
Fill fluids
Adjust shifter
Pinion flange swapped, driveshaft installed.
We have a complete driveline on our hands. Complete with oozing RTV!
Supplied converter bolts aren’t long enough, which is odd. So i’ll go after those next weekend.
Ended up trying out some black paint on the front end. Which I think I’ll stick with.
Need to wrap the downpipes and find a new home for my coils. Then the front end can go back on.
Leaky brake line
Fill fluids
Adjust shifter
We have a complete driveline on our hands. Complete with oozing RTV!
Supplied converter bolts aren’t long enough, which is odd. So i’ll go after those next weekend.
Ended up trying out some black paint on the front end. Which I think I’ll stick with.
Need to wrap the downpipes and find a new home for my coils. Then the front end can go back on.
Leaky brake line
Fill fluids
Adjust shifter
It’s a trick flow coverLooking good buddy- the list is getting shorter
who makes your diff cover?
Thanks man .It’s a trick flow cover
One more question.lol.
Will you be able to drain your catch can(s) with the fenders on?
You're mention of wrap got me thinking.....carbon fiber wrap for the tubes?Pinion flange swapped, driveshaft installed.
We have a complete driveline on our hands. Complete with oozing RTV!
Supplied converter bolts aren’t long enough, which is odd. So i’ll go after those next weekend.
Ended up trying out some black paint on the front end. Which I think I’ll stick with.
Need to wrap the downpipes and find a new home for my coils. Then the front end can go back on.
Leaky brake line
Fill fluids
Adjust shifter
Yep, it can be reached through the wheel well. Even easier with the wheels cut.Thanks man .
One more question.lol.
Will you be able to drain your catch can(s) with the fenders on?
It’s the usual DEI heat wrap stuff
I meant for the frame tubes, you can make it look like carbon fiber with a wrap. Though that might be a little trashy looking, given more thought.Yep, it can be reached through the wheel well. Even easier with the wheels cut.
It’s the usual DEI heat wrap stuff
I’ve seen that wrap on cage door bars to prevent scratches. I see what you’re sayin now lol
Always wanted tweed covers. Saw them in a mustang magazine a decade or more ago and it stuck I guess.
That said, for $105, these covers are kind of
ty.But they will do.
These ICT brackets might help pretty-up my coil situation. Assuming they’ll actually fit anywhere. Still up in the air on where...
That’s all for now. Only had about 45 minutes after work tonight.
Oh shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit.... It's starting to look like a car. 
I was beginning to wonder if the jack stands were permanently welded into position.
I was beginning to wonder if the jack stands were permanently welded into position.
I do like that bulge hanging out of the hood line...too bad you're gonna hide that. I think the whole car turned out great.
Tomorrow is the day.
congratulations.
Today didn’t go quite as planned.
Spent last night working on my base tune and trying to fix all the hunting and other issues.
Went out this morning and with the help of a buddy, got the shifter adjusted and the brakes bled.
Booted up my fresh tune and it lit off right away. Even being 35-40 degrees outside I didn’t have to touch the throttle or mess with anything. Held about 950-1000rpm and i logged for about 1-2 minutes. Unfortunately, the fuel leak reared it’s ugly head and I had to shut it down. No test drive today.
Ordered a new y block, hoping there was just a mismatch with the flare angles and it will be a simple fix.
Video:
View: https://youtu.be/l1EYN2hTM9M
Spent last night working on my base tune and trying to fix all the hunting and other issues.
Went out this morning and with the help of a buddy, got the shifter adjusted and the brakes bled.
Booted up my fresh tune and it lit off right away. Even being 35-40 degrees outside I didn’t have to touch the throttle or mess with anything. Held about 950-1000rpm and i logged for about 1-2 minutes. Unfortunately, the fuel leak reared it’s ugly head and I had to shut it down. No test drive today.
Ordered a new y block, hoping there was just a mismatch with the flare angles and it will be a simple fix.
Video:
View: https://youtu.be/l1EYN2hTM9M
My fuel fitting will be dropped off today.
Also ordered an on-board air compressor setup so I’m going to ditch the c02 setup before I even bother filling the bottle.
I’ve tapped out most of my available outputs with the HP ECU and can’t swing a dominator so hopefully it can be wired independent of the rest of the system. I imagine as long as it maintains the set PSI it doesn’t need to know anything else.
Stay tuned for a for sale post if this thing still leaks fuel this afternoon!
Also ordered an on-board air compressor setup so I’m going to ditch the c02 setup before I even bother filling the bottle.
I’ve tapped out most of my available outputs with the HP ECU and can’t swing a dominator so hopefully it can be wired independent of the rest of the system. I imagine as long as it maintains the set PSI it doesn’t need to know anything else.
Stay tuned for a for sale post if this thing still leaks fuel this afternoon!
Drove around about 10 minutes before it overheated and I had to shut it down. Sadly I was also shutting it down because the oil pressure dropped down into the low teens. Got it back into the garage before it got dark at least. Don’t have any more info than that at this point.
Sorry buddy-Hopefully it’s just minor stuff..
Before the low oil pressure and overheating- How was the drive going?
Nothing to hide here.
Engine temp reached 250 and the oil pressure was at 14 when I shut it off.
I had put some BR7ef plugs in and the car ran like hammered hell. Changed to a known working tune file and when that didn’t help we switched back to a TR6 plug.
I missed that the fan output was no longer pinned in the ECU.
It also wasn’t displayed on my dash like it should have been when I pulled out.
I was monitoring the timing, learn status, oil pressure and IAC position (old car had IAC issues like crazy).
Everything looked great as I drove. Drove about 1/4 mile from the house and turned around in a parking lot.
On the way up an incline I noticed the oil pressure was dropping out and there was smoke (steam) visible through the windshield. I assumed I had lost an oil line somewhere and when I got to the top of the hill I shut the car down.
I hopped out and saw it was a radiator hose and the coolant temp was reading 250. Obviously that was a major misstep on my part.
I believe the scaling for the oil pressure sensor is innaccurate so the numbers themselves may be wrong, but the decline would be real either way.
I think that the oil pressure was a direct result of the engine getting far too hot.
I also was unable to restart the car due to some sort of electrical issue so even after it cooled down we ended up pushing it an 1/8 mile or so to my garage.
The oil isn’t milky, the pressure relieved at a hose connection. I don’t know what the hell was going on under the dash electronically.
Hopefully live to try again tomorrow.
Engine temp reached 250 and the oil pressure was at 14 when I shut it off.
I had put some BR7ef plugs in and the car ran like hammered hell. Changed to a known working tune file and when that didn’t help we switched back to a TR6 plug.
I missed that the fan output was no longer pinned in the ECU.
It also wasn’t displayed on my dash like it should have been when I pulled out.
I was monitoring the timing, learn status, oil pressure and IAC position (old car had IAC issues like crazy).
Everything looked great as I drove. Drove about 1/4 mile from the house and turned around in a parking lot.
On the way up an incline I noticed the oil pressure was dropping out and there was smoke (steam) visible through the windshield. I assumed I had lost an oil line somewhere and when I got to the top of the hill I shut the car down.
I hopped out and saw it was a radiator hose and the coolant temp was reading 250. Obviously that was a major misstep on my part.
I believe the scaling for the oil pressure sensor is innaccurate so the numbers themselves may be wrong, but the decline would be real either way.
I think that the oil pressure was a direct result of the engine getting far too hot.
I also was unable to restart the car due to some sort of electrical issue so even after it cooled down we ended up pushing it an 1/8 mile or so to my garage.
The oil isn’t milky, the pressure relieved at a hose connection. I don’t know what the hell was going on under the dash electronically.
Hopefully live to try again tomorrow.
