Team Z uppers and lowers with MM panhard bar VS Panhard and torque arm

[a91what]

So i found someone local selling a MM panhard and torque arm setup for a fox. I already have team Z street beast uppers and lowers installed on the car and it handles great now but i think it could be improved. I know nothing about the suspension types except for the differences in how they are setup. The car is a street machine convertible, should i buy both of these parts or just install the panhard bar??
please advise

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you install the torque arm, you will not need the upper arms. They get removed.

Panhard bar, with upper arms in place will create bind due to differing roll centers. It will be exaggerated due to the stiffer, aftermarket arms you have. MM recommends stock type upper arms if you run the PHB alone.

I'd buy both, install the T/A and PHB and ditch the upper arms.

 

[a91what]

If you install the torque arm, you will not need the upper arms. They get removed.

Panhard bar, with upper arms in place will create bind due to differing roll centers. It will be exaggerated due to the stiffer, aftermarket arms you have. MM recommends stock type upper arms if you run the PHB alone.

I'd buy both, install the T/A and PHB and ditch the upper arms.

I was hoping you would reply, the torque arm is the standard duty version... you think it will hold up behind my 351?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I was hoping you would reply, the torque arm is the standard duty version... you think it will hold up behind my 351?

Give this page a good read. It will detail out the power levels of each setup.

Also another thing to keep in mind are spring rates as well. You'll need to change the rear springs at the least.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_rear_susp_ta.aspx


You also need SFC's welded in as part of the install. Check to see if the kit if for the square tube style (like MM) or round tube SFC's. There's a difference

 

[a91what]

Give this page a good read. It will detail out the power levels of each setup.

Also another thing to keep in mind are spring rates as well. You'll need to change the rear springs at the least.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_rear_susp_ta.aspx


You also need SFC's welded in as part of the install. Check to see if the kit if for the square tube style (like MM) or round tube SFC's. There's a difference

already have the SFC welded in, I will get the springs that match for a 250# front

thanks for the advice!!

 

[stanglx2002]

You should so do the panhard bar and torque arm. It'll make your car handle so much better with all that power.

 

[FastDriver]

The answer to this question is also the answer to: Do you prefer straight-line traction or corner carving?

If you go the T/A route, just call MM and ask them whether the standard T/A will hold up.

 

[a91what]

car is a street car... I like a little of both

 

[Noobz347]

car is a street car... I like a little of both

Yeah but you're going to be generating gobs of torque.

 

[FastDriver]

car is a street car... I like a little of both

Well, that's two different directions.

You've read this, right?:

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_rear_susp_ta.aspx

I also suggest reading this. I just did and it was an eye-opener:

https://www.racepagesdigital.com/a-missing-link-s197-three-link-suspensions/

Finally a fox mustang article touting the 1.3 60' times and a 1.06g on the skidpad:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...e-ultimate-fox-body-suspension-turn-and-burn/

Comparing my own setups, I won't be converting my Team-Z triangulated 4-link setup to a 3-link, because it's super easy to adjust, and proven to go into the 1.0 sec 60' zone. All I want to do with that car is go straight and quickly as possible. Turning and accelerating at the same time is a REALLY bad idea in that car. I can't say for sure if it's the suspension or the s-trac differential or a combination of both. All I can say is that it gets hairy really quickly.

On the blue car, I won't be changing the 3-link setup, because MM's design has proven itself handling. The blue car seems alright launching on drag radials, but the suspension and shocks aren't soft enough to be taken seriously on the dragstrip. Nevertheless, I feel totally in control on the launch and when accelerating through a corner.

If you insist on both, you'll be compromised on both, but the 3-link is the better all around setup, IMO. That said, I think you better take a look at the table in the first link to see if the standard TA has enough torque capacity for you.

 

[a91what]

looks like the standard duty torque arm is rated at 500ftlbs at the rear tires in my application. they also state that unless you are dumping the clutch at high rpm on sticky drag tires and ripping the fronts off the ground to disregard the torque numbers in the chart.

 

[FastDriver]

Yep, it's your call. You can always upgrade later if you run into trouble.

 

[a91what]

hmm... does $650 sound fair for both TA and panhard? both never installed new in box. I have to drive 2 hours to get them though

 

[Mustang5L5]

hmm... does $650 sound fair for both TA and panhard? both never installed new in box. I have to drive 2 hours to get them though

$875 plus shipping if you order from MM or LMR ( $822 if you use the 6% off code from LMR and free ship). So 4 hours of your time to save $172 minus fuel costs. What's your time worth to you?

 

[FastDriver]

Not to me. He'd have to go close to 1/2 cost. Going new adds the layer of warranty and support.