Electrical TFI Plug

Mindseye007

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Oct 21, 2020
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ontario
I installed the new Motocraft TFI Module from RockAuto and what does it mean when you connect the plug into the tfi module nice and tight then wiggle the wires and I got spark ? my car even started up and ran for 10 minutes. then i turned it off let the motor cool off and it would not start only crank i wiggled the wires coming out from the TFI plug and it fired right up. ran it again for 10 minutes then I hooked up my inova 3145 and with the koer i got codes 8, 12, 42, and 92 would the timing being off cause a code?
 
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8 - 8 cylinder
12 - Cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
42 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right HEGO)
92 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left HEGO

With regards to the TFI plug it may be as easy as tightening the connectors or you may need to replace the plug.


Other issue is the O2 sensors.
 
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8 - 8 cylinder
12 - Cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
42 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right HEGO)
92 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left HEGO

With regards to the TFI plug it may be as easy as tightening the connectors or you may need to replace the plug.


Other issue is the O2 sensors.
Thanks for your answer , code 12 how do i fix it? What does it need? Replace the IAC? Would the timing being off cause a code? I'll order new O2 sensors should I get Bosch or Motorcraft?
 
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The code 12 is most likely the issue with the TFI plug. You are having to jiggle or shake the wires or mess with the plug for it to restart. You need to fix that which will most likely fix the code getting tripped.
 
Just throwing money at a problem may not fix it. I’m not saying the O2’s are not bad but do some due diligence. Also, jrichker has some very good tech on here so search for it. He passed away so you won’t get a response from him.
 
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Dorman has the TFI 85130 pigtail for like $14. Personally I would repin it vs splicing if the wiring isn't all jacked up and the connector just has a few broken retaining pins. Probably get some heat shrink for each wire too since ppl jack up the wiring probing them. Generally if there's issues at the pigtail, there's more areas with chafe issues in the harness. Personaly I would remove it, inspect the whole harness and re-tape it. there 30 plus years old now and most are not in the best shape especially if someone tried a wire tuck. You can remove the main engine harness in about 20 mins without removing anything from the engine, not uncommon to find issues on a few wires and so much easier to work on one sitting at a bench vs hunched over the car. You do have to pull the upper for the injector harness though if you want to go over that too..
 
The code 12 is most likely the issue with the TFI plug. You are having to jiggle or shake the wires or mess with the plug for it to restart. You need to fix that which will most likely fix the code getting tripped.
you wont believe I put a new TFI module

Standard Motor Products LX218T Ignition Module Control Unit​

, the ford Motocraft from RockAuto was a defect bought this from amazon cuz people gave good reviews​

Amazon product ASIN B0080DJYOC
View: https://www.amazon.ca/Standard-Motor-Products-LX218T-Ignition/dp/B0080DJYOC?pd_rd_w=v15ze&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd220d4a-51ba-4577-8902-6afd053eaee1&pf_rd_p=dd220d4a-51ba-4577-8902-6afd053eaee1&pf_rd_r=BC87XBM21R7MP1XNHGYK&pd_rd_wg=1yplG&pd_rd_r=4d09e602-4bd6-4b62-8d9f-9e0364baf9e0&pd_rd_i=B0080DJYOC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t
put some thermal paste arctic silver 5 then installed it, and she fired right up, no more jiggling the wires, I let it warm up checked timing set it at 10 Degrees running perfect again, went for a drive and it drives so smooth again im so happy the problem is fixed, now all i need is 2 new oxygen sensors, hooked up obd1 KOER and got codes 41 and 91 THATS IT so sweet I guess ill get the Motocraft O2 sensors. Do you think I should send the defected Motocraft TFI back to RockAuto and exchange it for another one ? Or just get money back and buy another 2 Standard Motor Products LX218T Ignition Module Control Units off amazon for backup? thanks so much for your help.
 
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you wont believe I put a new TFI module

Standard Motor Products LX218T Ignition Module Control Unit​

, the ford Motocraft from RockAuto was a defect bought this from amazon cuz people gave good reviews​

Amazon product ASIN B0080DJYOC
View: https://www.amazon.ca/Standard-Motor-Products-LX218T-Ignition/dp/B0080DJYOC?pd_rd_w=v15ze&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd220d4a-51ba-4577-8902-6afd053eaee1&pf_rd_p=dd220d4a-51ba-4577-8902-6afd053eaee1&pf_rd_r=BC87XBM21R7MP1XNHGYK&pd_rd_wg=1yplG&pd_rd_r=4d09e602-4bd6-4b62-8d9f-9e0364baf9e0&pd_rd_i=B0080DJYOC&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t
put some thermal paste arctic silver 5 then installed it, and she fired right up, no more jiggling the wires, I let it warm up checked timing set it at 10 Degrees running perfect again, went for a drive and it drives so smooth again im so happy the problem is fixed, now all i need is 2 new oxygen sensors, hooked up obd1 KOER and got codes 42 and 92 THATS IT so sweet I guess ill get the Motocraft O2 sensors. Do you think I should send the defected Motocraft TFI back to RockAuto and exchange it for another one ? Or just get money back and buy another 2 Standard Motor Products LX218T Ignition Module Control Units off amazon for backup? thanks so much for your help.
i didnt think hardly anybody will exchange electrical parts...
 
The motor craft and standard 218 are identical parts. The 218t is 98% the same except it has one connection per pad under the cover vs 2 on the motor craft and none T series standard part... You probably just have a better connection this time and it hasn't arked or shorted it yet.
 
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if you are going through all that trouble, I would just buy the TFI relocation harness and kit from LMR
Waste of time and money, does absolutely nothing when your killing electronics from wiring issues in the main harness, like I said most owners are lazy and rather throw parts at stuff. if 20 mins to pull a harness is trouble, then owning a 30yr old car might not be the best idea. Ppl just hate electrical work.
 
If you did the wiggle test and got a result the problem is in the wiring....

From what you describe it sounds like the shielding is conflicting with the green wire for the coil...The shielding has a seperate grounding wire called a special grounding wire just for the shielding and also theres one for the instrumentation gauges and both comes off of pin #20 on the ecu plug..

Its laymans terminology is "case ground"...

Under that black tape is an aluminum layer that shields that part of the harness and sounds like you need to investigate there further by doing continuity tests on all 6 wires from TFI to ECU and even cross the pins to see or find where theyre shorting together..It will be 7 wires if you check them against pin #20 on the ECU......................

Im going with Coil negative wire on TFI shorting to ground through pin #20 on the ecu through the TFI shielding and cracked wiring as the cause...


Some have found that doing the relocation mod causes more issues because the proper dizzy from a 1993 -1996 must be used and proper shielded wiring must be used and properly grounded.......

SA-555-L-DSC02061-768x768.jpg

The cause for the overheaing TFI module is usually caused when the resistor on pin #4 coming from he ecu burns out or in technical terms shorts to open ....The unfiltered power the ecu and TFI gets on that circuit is a no no and way too much thats why its limited to 22kohms using a resistor on 88-92 or 93 5 speed models.......


A test between pin 4 on ecu plug and pin 2 on TFI plug will reveal if it needs to be replaced if its an original 5 speed car and if its not an original 5 speed and originally was an automatic the 22k resistor needs to be added especially of you put a non CCD TFI module on your dizzy.....

IMG_20221023_145334.jpg

Another cause for the TFI modules failing is the rubbery orange or tan colored module under the distributor..........

If its mushy and can be pressed into anywhere with a fingernail it needs replacing...

7e298cb7981646f0a5930690af562901.jpg

Whats funny is for anyone contemp;lating doing the TFI module relocation mod just know that with a piece of simple foil faced insulated bubble wrap and some foil tape to make it more resilient I made a shield that keeps the heat from rising up under my TFI module and It works pretty awesome...

IMG_20230502_134416.jpg IMG_20200914_204224428.jpg

I used an old intake and distributor and some peel and stick with foil tape to prototype the first one...

The thing that was the root cause of my issue was the billet aluminum distributor...

From my back thinking and deducing I came up with the conclusion that seeings the problem of intermittent power loss after driving for awhile came after replacing the stock dizzy for a billet one so I did some research and researched the heat retention differences between billet and cast..

Billet aluminum retains heat longer with a higher heat concentration than cast aluminum....

Good Luck
 
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If you did the wiggle test and got a result the problem is in the wiring....

From what you describe it sounds like the shielding is conflicting with the green wire for the coil...The shielding has a seperate grounding wire called a special grounding wire just for the shielding and also theres one for the instrumentation gauges and both comes off of pin #20 on the ecu plug..

Its laymans terminology is "case ground"...

Under that black tape is an aluminum layer that shields that part of the harness and sounds like you need to investigate there further by doing continuity tests on all 6 wires from TFI to ECU and even cross the pins to see or find where theyre shorting together..It will be 7 wires if you check them against pin #20 on the ECU......................

Im going with Pin 1 on TFI shorting to ground through pin #20 on the ecu through the TFI shielding and cracked wiring as the cause...


Some have found that doing the relocation mod causes more issues because the proper dizzy from a 1993 -1996 must be used and proper shielded wiring must be used and properly grounded.......

SA-555-L-DSC02061-768x768.jpg

The cause for the overheaing TFI module is usually caused when the resistor on pin #4 burns out or in technical terms shorts to open ....The unfiltered power the ecu and TFI gets on that circuit is a no no and way too much thats why its limited to 22kohms using a resistor on 88-92 or 93 5 speed models.......

A test between pin 4 on ecu plug and pin 2 on TFI plug will reveal if it needs to be replaced if its an original 5 speed car and if its not an original 5 speed and originally was an automatic the 22k resistor needs to be added especially of you put a non CCD TFI module on your dizzy.....

IMG_20221023_145334.jpg

Whats funny is for anyone contemp;lating doing the TFI module relocation mod just know that with a simple foil faced piece of bubble wrap and some foil tape I made a shield that keeps the heat from rising up under my TFI module and It works awesome...

IMG_20230502_134416.jpg IMG_20200914_204224428.jpg

I used an old intake and distributor and some peel and stick with foil tape to prototype the first one...

The thing that was the root cause of my issue was the billet aluminum distributor...

From my back thinking and deducing I came up with the conclusion that seeings the problem of intermittent power loss after driving for awhile came after replacing the stock dizzy for a billet one so I did some research and researched the heat retention differences between billet and cast..

Billet aluminum retains heat longer with a higher heat concentration than cast aluminum....

Good Luck
It's weird because now after the new TFI was installed I wiggled the wires and it keeps running perfect no shorting out causing it to stall or nothing . She Just runs like the day I drove it off the Ford dealership lot back in 1991.
 
Chalk it up to the TFI module being bad and move on. If it strands you again (hopefully those days are behind you) then go from there but find this thread and update.
 
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I bought a bunch of old standard lx218 off fleabay for $10 each from parts liquidators. If I had to buy one tomorrow I would find the local parts store that carries standard and buy the 218 non t series for the lifetime warranty.
Is the old standard lx218 for an auto or manual 5 speed foxbody or does it matter? On amazon it's says it's for an automatic.
 
Hasn't mattered in about 25 years, not going to find much stock that old any way. Even the old stuff I bought is the same as the current design except for some NOS ford, and filko, ones I bought. They consolidated the design of the lx218/223 years ago, and just dropped the 223 all to gether a few years back. Your much better off buying from a local parts store where you can walk in and honor the warranty on those any way. O'Reillys carries standard... There just not in my state.
 
Hasn't mattered in about 25 years, not going to find much stock that old any way. Even the old stuff I bought is the same as the current design except for some NOS ford, and filko, ones I bought. They consolidated the design of the lx218/223 years ago, and just dropped the 223 all to gether a few years back. Your much better off buying from a local parts store where you can walk in and honor the warranty on those any way. O'Reillys carries standard... There just not in my state.
so far my Standard 218T TFI Model is working great set the tps @ .998 and went for a few drives and she purrs like a kitten going for a bit off a drive with her about 120KMs tomorrow morning to get a water pump with 180 Thermostat and new Motocraft O2 Sensor's cant wait .