The surge Saga continues.....

[bdog9seclx]

1st as i saw on checklist by jrichker i did the tps to .99 and set my idle and reset the computer. Still stalled and surged.

2nd I took of that cyliner shaped thing on the tb looked at it dont know what it is...should i replace that?

I did find in my salt pepper shakers a bunch of gel looking substance on most prongs i have pictures of it..i dont know if it was silicon gel or what but i tried to get rid of all that...is that normal?...reset computer and let idle...still did it.

then i found 2 hoses that were cracked and definatly leaking. replaced those.one back intake to pcv the other back of intake to brake booster. reset computer let idle for about 20 mins still stall and surges.

And when ever it stalls it hard restarts..why does it hard restart? i have to give it gas to start back up...sometimes longer than others...heres the thing sometimes when it stalls it wont even turn over after it stalls it doesnt click or anything the light jus dim and nothing happens... So to me sounded like a connection or something..my battery is in the trunk so i jus pushed the battery around mov3d it rather and got back in and it started... so i think im on to something with that. Maybe the starter red wire is shorting or loose maybe? Does that sound possible... Can a loose connection like that cause stalling after u stop at a stop sign or even surge? where could the loose connection be?

Also people have said check my tfi and iac..what and where are they ...thks guys for the help this site def is worth it.. Hopefully i can conquer this dragon.

 

[bill302]

tfi click on link.

http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang/tfi.html

 

[bill302]

iac and maf cleaning click on link.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php

 

[bdog9seclx]

my motor is a 306 that one in the link looks like from a modualr or something neways will it throw a code if it is messed up?

 

[bill302]

modulars do not have distributors.it should throw a code if its causing a skip dumping fuel in exhaust.

 

[bdog9seclx]

modulars do not have distributors.it should throw a code if its causing a skip dumping fuel in exhaust.

whats a skip dumping? the exhaust does really smell like heavy gas

 

[bill302]

whats a skip dumping? the exhaust does really smell like heavy gas

i was just refering to the plug not fireing or not fireing properly(refered to as a skip) pushing unburned fuel vapors into exhaust. do you have any check engine codes.

 

[bdog9seclx]

have a guage pod so no warning light but takin it to auto zone tommorrow to check for codes ty a bunch

 

[bill302]

have a guage pod so no warning light but takin it to auto zone tommorrow to check for codes ty a bunch

good idea post codes tommorrow and good luck, hope those links help.

 

[Maryland Stang]

The next time it starts running vile (bad) put a voltmeter on the battery and see what it says.

 

[bdog9seclx]

what part of battery and what setting should i set my analog vm to... and just use the red wire on vm or both red and black?

 

[Maryland Stang]

Red goes on positive and black goes on negative. DC settings. Zero the Ohms before testing.

 

[Darkwriter77]

I'm betting on the TFI module. You could pull it and have it tested at Autozone (have them repeat the test 5 or 6 times to warm up the module), but sometimes even a bad module may slip by the bench test as "good." The hard start and stalling issues after it's warm sounds like the common TFI headache, had something very similar on mine and the TFI module fixed it (occurred during the "Satanic Possession" saga).

Are you getting the surge just at idle, or is it jerking with power on/off while cruising?

This should keep you busy for a few hours:

- Check ALL vacuum hoses, both plastic lines and rubber
- Remove/clean out/re-install the EGR valve with new gasket (do NOT use carb cleaner)
- Pull a couple of plugs, see if they're getting fouled (indicates rich mix, something upstream messing with your air/fuel ratio)
- Remove MAF sensor, VERY carefully clean with electronic contact cleaner ONLY and a Q-tip, dry for a couple of minutes, and re-install
- A good Seafoam douche of the top-end never hurts ... unless it's so clogged that you turn loose a giant turd of carbon and cause downstream havoc
- Locate each and every little ground wire on the car (even the ECM ground behind the pass. side kickpanel), sandpaper 'em down to BARE METAL, coat with dielectric, and re-install
- Clean (or replace) the IAC, hose out the IAC passage and throttle body with Seafoam Deep Creep or Throttle Body/Intake Cleaner (NOT carb cleaner)
- Post results within 24 hours

 

[bdog9seclx]

Where is the tfi module abnd what is it? It is kinda herky jerky while accel/decel but only if your giving it a little gas. And it does surge still after i cleaned iac and tb with carb cleaner... Am i not suppose to use carb cleaner on the iac or tb? if no why not...could i have damged it even more? As far as the egr valve it is plugged of and not used could that be an issue...i have no smog pump or anything like that. Set base idle tps and cleaned iac and tb didnt stall on me anymore so im gettin close but still is surging not as much but still hard restarting as well...went to get codes pulled and the scanner kept sayin cylinder id not recognized and we tried 87-95 years the computer hookup was like right behind the cd player...do you think that was where the stock v6 comp was and still is? I bought the car as is after the 302 swap so i dont know many details...should i try the pass side kick panel???

 

[timewarped1972]

the reason your not supposed to use carb cleaner on some things is it cleans so well it cleans any coatings that may be on any steel areas to prevent rust, and carb cleaner also can cause flash rust and an oxidation....
however there was that one link posted above that suggested using carb cleaner so.....not sure.....i used de-natured alchohol on a q tip when i cleaned my maf ....

 

[jrichker]

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

 

[bdog9seclx]

Holy *****!!!
I think its fixed the surging is for sure...hope...
When I cleaned the iac and tb it quit stalling..or didnt stall for a little bit...
But when I cleaned the mass air sensor it quit surging for sure...only thing is it started to stall on me again but i swear the surging is gone or almost completely gone...
Now it has started to stall on me again after coming down from higher rpms...i will just push in the clutch and watch the needle fall sometimes it catches itself sometimes it doesnt.... so im gonna reset computer and set the base idle...by unplugging the sensor on the end of the i a c and crank it set the screw idle then shut it off...and replug in the sensor start and let idle for about 10 mins...this sound correct...maybe the base idle was too low and it cant catch itself before it stalls....what should i set the idle at? 302 with 500+ intake lift cam....anyone familiar with that method? but I think we have driven a sword through the dragons heart..

When it did stall tho it did the not crank thing again like there is a loose connection somewhere i moved the battery around didnt help i just kept tryin to start it over n over but no clicking or anything weird but could that be a loose ground? and do u think thats related to the stalling???

Thks for all the help ppl definetly made it possible for me to fix it!!!I just hope it is fixed holding my breath!!!

 

[Darkwriter77]

Sounds like it may be a combination of a couple of problems - the MAF and the TFI module - which is also exactly what I had to fight, myself, not too long ago. Autozone has Wells brand modules for around $45 with a lifetime warranty. It's the rectangular thingy on the bottom of the distributor with the fat, flat plug going into its side, held on with two screws. You'll likely have to invest in a TFI module wrench, which is basically a thin-walled 1/4" socket on one end and a Torx bit on the other, with a finger-grippy ring around the middle - costs between $5 and $8 at most places.

Install is simple: Mark the position of your distributor, unplug the module, loosen the 1/2" hold-down bolt, rotate the dizzy until you can undo both screws, and pull DOWN (not away) on the module to unplug it from the pickup coil. There should be a bunch of white toothpaste-looking gunk behind it. Wipe the mounting surface off really good, re-apply a fresh layer of "toothpaste" (dielectric grease, the new module should include a packet of some), and do the whole "installation is reverse of removal." Be sure to check your timing after reconnecting everything, as you may or may not have bumped your timing up or down a couple of degrees, even with the position pre-marked (only takes an itty-bitty smidge of a turn to throw things off).

It's a good idea to keep that little TFI module wrench and a 1/2" combo wrench in the glovebox or trunk, too, once you're done. I keep 'em along with a spare module in the trunk, just in case my other one craps out on me someday.

 

[bdog9seclx]

SWeeeeeT

OMG It now has finally quit surging and stalling....after weeks of going through the helpful....let me rephrase it Very helpful list....I located the computer and found some wires and when I looked close one wire had been pulled out of its connector..i DONT KNOW WHAT THAT WIRE CONTROLS BUT....probably from someones foot on the carpet pushed it out...so i extended it and replaced the connector. reset computer let it idle and it doesnt surge. So that with the combination of cleaning the mass air element fixed it... Im crossing my fingers... now that ive found my eec test connector up by the mass air im going to dump the codes...

Thanks ALL RIP Dragon

 

[bdog9seclx]

Here is the testdrive clip
www.orlandoworldwide.com/run.html