The Tragic Tale of ElSuperPinto

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@IICrew is probably your best bet, but I dunno if he has one out of a car.... Maybe @Enzio since his car's in the body shop..... :shrug: I mean I can measure what's in my car like anyone else, but I'm guessing you want more than just a diameter and depth?

I bought a new brake booster for the t top car 6 months ago. Paid 99.99 shipped. I can't find one less than $300 with core charges now. I am trying to see if the engine, trans and electrical systems are good before I spend real money saving her. So I guess leg day is back on the schedule until I see if this engine and trans run.
 
It doesn't look like I'm too late:


Already got high-temp Cerakote picked out for the exhaust manifolds. They're going to be an odd pair, with a Mark VIII manifold on the passenger side, and either a Cobra or Continental manifold on the driver side.
 
I was referring to your intake post. :)
I can powder coat and cerakote at home for a fraction of what they'd charge.

Here's an intake, water outlet, and air cleaner I did for my '84 F150:
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That Edelbrock intake is a custom shade of black I formulated myself. I didn't have enough Eastwood gloss black, nor enough of Harbor Freight's matte black, so I mixed them 50/50, shook the bottle for a good ten minutes, shot the powder, threw it in the oven, and hoped for the best. That intake turned out so good I did parts for two other people in that color. Usually powders don't mix well, but those two did, and the results were spectacular every time I used that blend.

The air cleaner was a stamped-steel chrome Cal Customs piece that I masked very carefully, shot Ford blue in the flamed area, and cured in the oven. By some miracle I managed zero overspray. That air cleaner actually ended up on a '72 Chevy pickup owned by a friend about a year later, I never told him what shade of blue that was. :spit:
 
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I have a booster laying in the scrap pile. I will get some measurements later today. Anything specific you need measured?
Diameter and depth between mounting surfaces would be the big ones. I could just measure the one on the car, but I've found it's easier to get accurate measurements of such things off the car, so I'd really appreciate it.
 
6" from front to rear mounting points. 7" diameter at widest point on seam. 9 3/4" from master cylinder mount to center or brake pedal eyelet.

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Thank you!

Since that's actually just as small as the smallest aftermarket boosters I was finding, I'll be giving up power brakes.
 
Will a hydroboost system be an option? If your running power steering it wouldn't be that much of a burden. Some of them are fairly small. Parts are common on gm engines for a decade or more.

 


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGPbSF1HZOk


Looks like a hybrid gm system dimensions would work but I don't know the infrastructure needed.

I drove my cobra for a couple hundred miles and it sucked with the brake booster bad. That was when I first injured my back too. Using the clutch and manual brakes with manual steering was not a fun drive. It was a chore and one reason work stopped on the car.

I know the manual brake master cylinder is different and would work better. I just think if your going as far as you are it will be funner to drive if it's less of a chore. We get used to todays cars and although I hate having to ask permission of modern cars to do anything I do appreciate the comforts on longer drives.

I am pretty sure the interior brackets are different on manual vs power brake cars as well.
 
Will a hydroboost system be an option? If your running power steering it wouldn't be that much of a burden. Some of them are fairly small. Parts are common on gm engines for a decade or more.



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGPbSF1HZOk


Looks like a hybrid gm system dimensions would work but I don't know the infrastructure needed.

I drove my cobra for a couple hundred miles and it sucked with the brake booster bad. That was when I first injured my back too. Using the clutch and manual brakes with manual steering was not a fun drive. It was a chore and one reason work stopped on the car.

I know the manual brake master cylinder is different and would work better. I just think if your going as far as you are it will be funner to drive if it's less of a chore. We get used to todays cars and although I hate having to ask permission of modern cars to do anything I do appreciate the comforts on longer drives.

I am pretty sure the interior brackets are different on manual vs power brake cars as well.

The car doesn't have power steering anymore, and I'm not crazy about the idea of putting a power steering pump on it for the brakes.

I looked an an electric-boost system this morning, but $1400 is just not happening for that. Then I looked into an electric power steering pump from either a Mazda 3 or an Toyota MR-2, to supply a hydroboost unit but none of the local yards have one.

What I'm leaning toward is upgrading the master cylinder when I switch over to manual brakes, and upgrading the brakes themselves so that I get more stopping power to compensate for the lack of power assist.

I don't know. Someone convince me one way or the other. I think hydroboost units look hideous, and hate the idea of running a power steering pump just to run one even more, but the only other viable option is manual brakes, and I'm not sure I like that idea either.
 
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Since I can't come up with an idea of how this swap will be either cheap or easy, this could be a good option:


It'll eat into whatever budget you may have, but I think this would most likely be something you wouldn't want to skimp. :shrug:

Edit: just saw your post mentioning this option. :doh:
 
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Just spitballing here. How about an accumulator, hydroboost slave and something like a lift pump for a small dump truck. Then an adjustable pressure switch to activate pump. Most of these should be available used. The accumulator can be hidden anywhere. Slave unit can be hidden under a shroud mimicking a small booster painted to match engine compartment. Pump can be mounted to inner fender.

I started pricing things out. New the kit is a better deal as well as safer. Going with used parts is viable but wont be cheap plus I don't know whats available near you. As well as the proven to work factor and this being brakes.

2000 Mustangs used a hydroboost setup.

Amazon product ASIN B001CAB7UYView: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-BRB39-Power-Brake-Booster/dp/B001CAB7UY


I found a wilwood kit without pump for 750 on ebay.

Is power steering absolutely out of the question? A ps pump brings this down to a decent price. Would a ps pump with separate reservoir work for clearance? I don't know what models today use them but gm had several available in 90's cars.
 
Well then. Leg day is back on the menu boys!

Maybe not. Sorry I cannot let this go just yet. lol

I am not certain but it looks like a 2016 to 2019 Prius has electric power brakes. It is about the size of a hydroboost slave and appears to be an all in one unit. The electronics hang off to the drivers side so it appears it may fit. I am finding them for between $100 to $700. Used should be fine. I imagine they are fairly robust.

Will take some more research but if it's not computer controlled it appears to be an option. Even if it uses higher voltages a water proof buck converter will probably be okay with a decent alternator. A capacitor may be enough to overcome voltage surges on a stock alternator since the motor doesn't run constantly. An arduino may even be an option for control if it needs a computer.
 
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