Time 2 Replace clutch/ Need a good Shop!

[cryptic]

What's up Stangers, The clutch has been talking to me and I think I'm going to have it repalced on the first, so I need a few recomendations on shops in the Dallas area.

I appreciate your help

 

[Barrier]

DiY!

It's a great experience and I can walk you through it as we have virtually the same cars. It'll take about 13 hours your first time and make sure youve got the right tools and such if ya wanna do it and save a grand

 

[cryptic]

I'd rather do it,

If you can put together the basic need to knows, tools, specs, warnings. Ive got the Haynes man., and I've been turning wrenches for a while.

Piece mail it to me at [email protected]

 

[Back2Mustangs]

Just pull it all out, tap the dowels out of the flywheel, have it turned, and then mount the clutch assembly back to it(disc must be facing the right direction) When bolting the cltuch assembly to the flywheel the Haynes should tell you to turn the bolts like a half turn each in a star pattern until they are all tight around the pressure plate, then torque to spec's. Every clutch comes with an alignment tool to use. The clutch-fork and TOB (directional also) go onto the input shaft and then you guide the tranny back in... The bellhousing prob won't be flush because of the pressure plate, so if you're sure its in all the way and the all the holes line up, then tightening the bolts should seal the gap... I think the thats about it. someone else can add more specifics, but if you have a Haynes Man then you should be fine. The little things I missed are like unhooking the clutch cable, taking the starter off...watch out for sparks when doing the starter, and have some extensions and a couple swivels ready... Umm the flywheel bolts will only line up one way... what else

 

[TenaciousD]

DiY!

..... if ya wanna do it and save a grand

it does not cost a grand to install, I had a spec clutch put in, it was like 300-400 including the clutch.
but there is nothing like doing it ur self, very rewarding

 

[cryptic]

Thanks for the input,

NOw it's time to decide what clutch, any suggestions, I'd rather stay with FRPP but if you have better feedback let me have it.

 

[UNVMATT]

Generally, its around 250 for labor only..
But if you take it to a "franchised" shop it will cost you around 900 including materials..And thats just for a replacement OEM clutch..

Been through a few clutches lately..I finally got my problem fixed now..

 

[Barrier]

Just pull it all out, tap the dowels out of the flywheel, have it turned, and then mount the clutch assembly back to it(disc must be facing the right direction) When bolting the cltuch assembly to the flywheel the Haynes should tell you to turn the bolts like a half turn each in a star pattern until they are all tight around the pressure plate, then torque to spec's. Every clutch comes with an alignment tool to use. The clutch-fork and TOB (directional also) go onto the input shaft and then you guide the tranny back in... The bellhousing prob won't be flush because of the pressure plate, so if you're sure its in all the way and the all the holes line up, then tightening the bolts should seal the gap... I think the thats about it. someone else can add more specifics, but if you have a Haynes Man then you should be fine. The little things I missed are like unhooking the clutch cable, taking the starter off...watch out for sparks when doing the starter, and have some extensions and a couple swivels ready... Umm the flywheel bolts will only line up one way... what else

You got most of the tough spots... Get shorty wrenches or the top 2 starter bolts will be a BITCH

Uhh... make sure you refill the tranny fluid

You'll need a 12 point wrench for the driveshaft bolts on the rear-end... I had to get someone to step on the brakes and put the handbrake on for each of em and I had to use 2 wrenches for a bigger moment arm... also use a screwdriver and lock the flywheel with it when you take the pressure plate cause it'll turn too...

Aside from that and making sure you align the DAMN FORWARD O2 SENSOR for the midpipe before you raise the tranny up (had to pull the tranny again because of that >.>) and as he said the bellhousing wont go in flush with the plate when putting it back in, but there should only be about a 1/2 inch gap, after that put the bolts in and tighten then to get it flush.

Uhh, other than that just follow the Haynes manual and you'll be fine... we'll be here if you run into any other problems.

Good luck!

EDIT: Tools I used

Generic metric socket wrench set
3/4 8 inch extension (needed for upper 2 tranny bolts)
Punch (not needed, but helpful with sensors on tranny mount)
Shorty wrenches (Starter Bolts = HELL)
12 point metric wrench set (driveshaft bolts)
Torque wrench (needed for flywheel, pressure plate, tranny bolts, starter bolts, shifter bolts... all the torque specs are in the Haynes manual)
Haynes Manual (my second bible)
Jack
4 jackstands

That should be all you need... though if you can get access to a tranny jack it'd make it a small bit easier. Some parts (torquing driveshaft bolts as explained above, raising tranny back up) need another set of hands but for the most part you can go solo, just dont let the tranny fall on your head

 

[Barrier]

Oh and don't go with Exedy-Daiken... damn clutch disc destroyed itself right after I did the break-in period.

 

[Barrier]

How'd it go?