Timing Chain Cover

bodavis100

New Member
Apr 4, 2011
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Hey guys Im new to the whole forum thing but I really like the Idea.

I have a 65 mustang with a 351w in it. I cracked the timing chain cover yesterday so I will be replacing it pretty soon. I was just wondering what all I need to do.
By looking I know I need to take off the fan, pulleys, water pump, fuel pump, and harmonic balancer. What all fluids do I need to drain and do I have to remove the oil pan.

I am young and basically learning as I go so any advice will be appreciated. The thing I am most worried about is the balancer. Would ya'll agree that this is a pretty straight forward job for me to do myself, I do know some but I am pretty good with my hands (I have common sense also).
 
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You'll need to drain the coolant first from the lowest point you can, there are drain plugs on the sides of the block if they're not seized in there. It won't hurt to drain the oil as you will have to eventually since antifreeze will get into it when you remove the waterpump and timing cover. When it's all reassembled I would probably run some cheap oil/filter on it for a short period ~30min. to get the oil hot and flush out all of the contaminants in the cheap oil change then replace with fresh oil/filter.
You shouldn't have to drop the oil pan. Don't forget a TC gasket set, it'll come with the wp & fp gaskets. I use FelPro.

Make sure you get a similar timing cover as they varied over the years - w -w/o timing pointer, revese flow waterpump, w-w/o oil dipstick hole, etc. and check the depth as there may have been different depths on the backside where the fuel pump eccentric spins. There were different depths on the 289/302 ones in later years and the eccentric would scrape if you used the wrong one, not sure if the 351W is the same.

I would suggest renting a harmonic balancer puller from the parts store, most rent tools for a deposit and refund in full when returned - NAPA, O'Reilly's, Advance, etc. I don't think you'll get the balancer off without it.
Jon
 
How do I tell which cover I need. I def. need one that has a dipstick hole (thats how I cracked this one). If I have a reverse pump then it runs off a pulley correct I dont think it does. The only pully I have is the one for the fan belt/alt.
 
You don't have to remove the oil pan, but the front of the pan IS bolted to the bottom of the timing cover. Don't start pulling on the old timing cover until those pan bolts are out, otherwise you'll bend the front lip of the pan. The new timing cover gasket set will contain the front part of the pan gasket, which you should replace. Cut the old pan gasket flush with the front of the block on both sides, scrape old gasket pieces from front of the pan, and install new pieces using a small amount of RTV sealer where the new joins the old. Don't forget to stuff some rags in the exposed area of the pan to catch debris.

One other thing - not all timing covers are 100% interchangeable. Make sure your replacement has water passages that are shaped like those on the old one, to ensure that you won't have cooling problems (some later covers were cast with passages for the reverse-flow water pumps).
 
Hopefully your TC is the same one that came on the block. I would check your casting numbers and date code to see what year your 351W is. The casting numbers and date code should be cast into the block at the rear right (passengers) bottom corner of the block just above the oil pan mount like this:
IMG_2209.jpg


You'll probably need some gunk, a toothbrush and some rags to read it, bring something to write on under there or say it out to someone to write it down. Casting number on bottom, date code on top. If you need help decoding it just post here.
Jon
 
Alright got the cover off appreciate all the help I'm sure yall be hearing from me when I stick it all back on in a couple of days (hopefully remebering where all these dang bolts go) I tried marking them with tape.

JonK appreciate the info on codes I will do that as soon as possible Ive been wondering where they are stamped at. The motor is freshly rebuilt so it shouldnt be to hard to see what the code is.