tore the 331 down today to prep for heads and..

Modular2v

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2002
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oklahoma
i figured i would just go through and put all new gaskets and seals on it and im glad i did! The oil pump drive shaft looked like a drill bit!!!! haha Glad it didnt break. Has anyone had any issues with the ARP shafts?
 
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The ARP sahft is usually fine, just check to make sure you have proper clearance with your dist.

OR

Just use a Ford Racing shaft that has more relieved areas on both ends.
 
bullitstang1313 said:
Did you check the pump to see what was wrong? My buddy turned an oil pump drive shaft into what looked like an easy out. His new melling oil pump had a piece of debris in it from the factory so it locked up and twisted his shaft off. Replaced the pump and used an ARP shaft, no problems the second time around.
i dont think there is anything wrong with the pump:shrug: I have seen quite a few people do this. . . . i think i will replace the pump anyway but i will NOT be using a high volume one as i really dont feel comfortable taking the chance of my pan being sucked dry at 6000rpms
 
1991vert said:
you dont have a 7qt pan? if you spent the money on a stroker kit, might as well make sure it gets oiled properly to protect your investment
whats it matter if im not running a high volume pump? Sure it would be extra insurance but The pan i have is fine and has oil pressure has never been a problem! If it wasnt getting oiled properly before dont you think it would have blown at 6000rpms on nitrous lol?
 
I will be using the stock pan and std. volume pump in my 331, i dont plan on spinning over 6200 rpms NA, which these parts should do fine with. I will need a better shaft, as i twisted my stock one a few years back pulling up my driveways...that sucked

I dont know if the nitrous makes any difference...instantly way more pressure on every part in the bottom end though.
 
well since it is out nows the time to get a bigger pan and if you don't have it already a windage tray. More hp to be found by getting rid of the drag of oil. In fact many drag racers used to just run 2 quarts of oil less when they drag raced so that the crank wouldn't be slopping through oil. You could do the same with a 7 quart pan and run 5 quarts.
 
for a street car there is no need for the windage tray. you may pick up like 3hp at hig rpms...it's a waste IMO, as is the bigger pan for a street driven 331.

I could see if you are trying to squeeze like 425+rwhp NA out of this thing with a Dart block, but cmon.
 
89white50 said:
for a street car there is no need for the windage tray. you may pick up like 3hp at hig rpms...it's a waste IMO, as is the bigger pan for a street driven 331.

I could see if you are trying to squeeze like 425+rwhp NA out of this thing with a Dart block, but cmon.
kind of what i was thinking. . . i dont know how much power the car will be making NA after the heads. I bet it will be close to the 400 mark though:shrug:
 
89white50 said:
for a street car there is no need for the windage tray. you may pick up like 3hp at hig rpms...it's a waste IMO, as is the bigger pan for a street driven 331. QUOTE]
Actually last year i believe MMFF mag dis a test to show how much hp a windage tray is worth. To simulate they put 4 quarts of oil in a factory pan instaed of 5. I believe the number was 6 RWHP. Windage trays are not just for auto cross cars. In fact older mopar muscle cars which i'm sure you all know were built for drag racing and pretty much that alone came with factory installed windage trays on there big blocks. I doubt the factory would have wasted there time with these components if they weren't going to give a bit of an edge to there vehicles. For how cheap a windage tray is i'm surprised not everyone installs one if they have there engine out.