trac lock is shot! how to replace clutches??

stang9gt

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Dec 21, 2001
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State College, Pa
So when I lift my car up I can rotate the tires with the trans in gear without the driveshaft spinning. Trac lock is shot. I can get the rebuild kit for 43$ (new clutch packes, shims, and lock bolt.) How do I decide which shim I need to use when I install the new clutch packs??
 
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stang9gt said:
So when I lift my car up I can rotate the tires with the trans in gear without the driveshaft spinning. Trac lock is shot. I can get the rebuild kit for 43$ (new clutch packes, shims, and lock bolt.) How do I decide which shim I need to use when I install the new clutch packs??

There is no shimming of anything needed. You remove the spider gears from the differential, and pull out the old clutches. You simply take the new clutches and reinstall them in the same order as the stock ones. There are clutches and metal spacers/shims that come out, is this what you are asking about? They are in some order when they come out: spacer-clutch-spacer-spacer-clutch-spacer, something like that. When I did it, I reinstalled them differently. By using one old clutch and the new set you can install them so it goes spacer-clutch-spacer-clutch-spacer-clutch-spacer. Or atleast something like that, I don't remember right now. The new order is supposed to increase friction so the differential has less tendancy to spin one wheel. Any ways, you just slide the combo of the washers and clutches back in, then reinstall the spider gears. That is it. It is very easy.
 
The gear mesh is not changed when simply removing the diff.

Just make sure you keep track of which side all of the shims and bearing races come from.

And the shims inside the diff shouldn't be moved. If more pre load is desired you only make the shim on the outside bigger. I wouldn't usually recomend messing with the shim size but I think some of the newer GT's are set up to loose.
 
Slider said:
There is no shimming of anything needed. You remove the spider gears from the differential, and pull out the old clutches. You simply take the new clutches and reinstall them in the same order as the stock ones. There are clutches and metal spacers/shims that come out, is this what you are asking about? They are in some order when they come out: spacer-clutch-spacer-spacer-clutch-spacer, something like that. When I did it, I reinstalled them differently. By using one old clutch and the new set you can install them so it goes spacer-clutch-spacer-clutch-spacer-clutch-spacer. Or atleast something like that, I don't remember right now. The new order is supposed to increase friction so the differential has less tendancy to spin one wheel. Any ways, you just slide the combo of the washers and clutches back in, then reinstall the spider gears. That is it. It is very easy.

That sounds like a good idea but wouldn't it be bad using one of the old/spent clutches??? Anybody else do this setup that adds another friction??
 
A properly set up Ford Diff. will out perform a regular Torsen unit.

A regular Torsen needs equal load to engage both wheels fully. Unless you are going strait they are junk. Any car with a limited slip will spin the right wheel easier especially in a right turn but Torsens are really bad.

The only real good thing about a Torsen is the strength (T2) and the fact that they last forever when treated right.
 
1st, the differential does NOT need to be removed from the rearend. All of the work can be done with the differential still bolted in place, and thus thre is no need to worry about resetting up the gears.

2nd, you use the best 2 clutches out of all the old ones. There are several on each side, and you should be able to find 2 that are still in good shape. Even if they are not in perfect shape, you will get more grip/friction between a worn out clutch against a new clutch then the metal washer/spacer against a new clutch.

Do a search on here and over at corral.net for more info. That is how I learned how to do it.
 
There are shims that come in the kit. They are for the back side of the clutch pack to the housing. They set your endplay on the axle. Measure the old shims with a micrometer and start with what you have and check your endplay. The last one I did (last week) required a .015 increase in the shim to bring it into spec, also allowed for a "tighter" limited slip.