There really is nothing ordinary about those parts, probably wouldn't last a week in the hands of most of the stangnet members on the street.
I respectfully disagree. My street motor has more exotic parts in it that people said wouldnt last one season without needing rings. I have about 5000 street miles and around 100 passes without a rebuild, and the last time i had the heads off the motor, everything looked mint and was blessed by my engine builder. This is with a piston that has a compression height of less than 1'' Everyone told me the motor would make awesome power, but not be reliable.
I think you are pretty knowledgeable, but i also think you need to differentiate between what is for a car meant to run the quarter mile and one that gets driven on the street a little better.
Not every setup is meant to live life a quarter mile at a time.
Ever notice the guys that want to/claim they run high rpm around here always disappear? It's because for street duty it's too high maintenance and unreliable, i'm guessing they either can't pull it off or they blow it up and never come back. High rpm tears stock blocks apart, that includes the mexican and the B block.
I appreciate the compliment, I think you have a good knowledge base also, but again, ill disagree on the high rpm needing maintenence and being unreliable. If the valvetrain geometry is right, there is not any good reason it would be unreliable. I have personally spun OEM ford, 100% stock hydraulic roller lifter to 7500rpms on a few occasions, and have over 50 passes shifting the car over 7000rpm. Never had to touch the rockers, no maintenance required. I did check them once because the upper intake was off for my own piece of mind. My cam grinder Dan Rawls has personally spun factory HR lifters to 8800 in NMRA EFI renegade. Also, look up Jake Stetlers drag week chevelle, running like 5.13 gears, 28'' tire, NO OVERDRIVE, and the motor spins to 8400 rpms. He had 5000 street miles on his valvetrain, with no problems. Very impressive to me. "Racecar" parts can be used on the street if done right, and it can be reliable.
Parts best suited for street cars are the ones that are simple, effective and reliable.
I'll take a larger headed combo over a small head high rpm combo anyday.
I do agree with this, but in the OP's case, i wouldnt rush to change the heads when he has restrictions that, in my opinion, are really holding the combination back
BTW, proof to me is not an engine dyno, it's driving it like you stole it for 3000+ miles without having to take it apart.
I agree, chassis dynos arent going to tell you much either, to me, my accurate HP numbers come from raceweight and MPH