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Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by Marcolivier, Aug 31, 2016.
Would of made them aluminium if I had was equipped to weld aluminium.
About 3-4 lbs each.
I got my ebay spacers. They made the centerhole way too big. It leaves very little materialbetween the stud holes and the center holes. I will see how it fits and probably end up making some or having some made to my liking. This is a 3 inch spacer.
I am trying to figure out a good place to fit a front mount intercooler. The hole under the bumper and over the front valence is kind of small. I was thinking of lowering the front valence, looks like its just a question of making different brackets. Idk how that would look tho. Do you have other ideas?
My fuel pump is making funny noises. I would like to upgrade to a pump that can handle boost with a carb. Any suggestions? I found this one, but it's much more expensive than a normal 7psi pump.
I want a good quality part.
Here are my thoughts/suggestions.
For your lowering blocks, drill a bunch of lightening holes if you would like to take some weight out of them. Other than that, they look like they'll serve the purpose just fine. For an example, look at a 1-2-3 block.
As for lowering your front valence, I don't know how that would look as the fender sides of the valance are molded to the contour of the fenders. Just my opinion, you might be served well by a Cobra II spoiler as it will direct air upward toward that opening if you choose to mount there.
Your wheel spacers should work just fine. It's hard to tell by the pics, but the meat of what holds the spacer onto the disc/axle should suffice. If you're looking at the counter-bore of the bolt holes, that really won't matter that much as it is just dead space anyway. If you're concerned with concentricity of the wheel, it sounds like you have a competent machine shop more or less at your disposal, have one of them make a sleeve with the ID to fit the hub of the disc/axle and the OD to fit the hole in the spacer with enough of a lip turned down to the OD of the hub to engage the wheel. That should locate the spacer AND the wheel without depending on the bolt circle as your locator.
Now, the fuel pump. I don't think that you would need something with that much PSI in a carbed application. The needle and seat in a carb could be overpowered by the excess pressure. IMO, what you need to be looking at is flow, not pressure. Someone more versed in this respect can probably lead you in a better direction than I can.
A boost referenced fuel pressure regulator would require 5psi + the boost. I came up with 9psi of boost and 700hp as being something that could cover all eventualities. That's roughly 85gph @ 14psi at the carb.
Those are pretty much the numbers that a blue holley pump can produce. Check the graph on page 3.
I could go with the black holley pump and get a bit more buffer in there for static pressure drop or a dip in voltage or something.
If I ever decide to upgrade to a dart block with forged internals, I will have to run a bigger pump and bigger fuel line.
Thinking of this for fuel pressure regulator.
And this for pump:
I think I got all the bugs out of the brakes. Finished installing the suspension stuff.
3 inch spacers on the left, 1.5 inch spacers on the right.
I think I like the 1.5 inch spacers better.
I was going to put my traction bars from Stumpy on this weekend too, but I want to drive it with the SFCs first so I can feel the incremental improvements.
Bad weather got me working on some stuff.
I want to make around 500whp. I am going turbo and my turboes are big enough. I am wondering what motor set-up to go with: ( tremec tko tranny, aluminium heads and single stage intake will be part of the mix)
1: shp block, forged rotating 331 assembly internally balanced, new flywheel. 5000$-6000$ I'm guessing.
2: scat rotating 3.25 stroke assembly in current block no overboring or removing motor. So much less work and $$$. 1500$.
3: have my high compression pistons machined down. 500$ - 1000$ range.
Hood almost closes, still needs a little work on this side. The other side is going to suck.
Turboes are in and hood closes. It's only 30 little jobs away from running again.
Needed to relocate the wastegate arm because it was in the way of the hood closing.
The wastegate I got with the turbo is adjustable from 18 to 45 PSI. That's not going to work for me. I ordered a different one from ebay.