What wax for black paint??

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by Black Stang 97, Jun 8, 2005.

  1. Truth be told its probably all pretty much the same shiot in the bottles. Ain't nothing wrong with Meguiars....

  2. this man speaks the truth :nice:
  3. You are so right, Meg works GREAT on perfect new cars.
    Real world, no way in hell without a BUFFER.

    From the guy that has tried it all from stores.

    I go right to the source, the detailer knows.

    From the guy who had 4 black used rides that will never use a buffer on Fords.
    (paint is way too thin)

    Good stuff lasts, takes off Oxidation, used in the sun and is super easy on & off with out a buffer on the crappy paint.

    SO again IMOP, Meg sucks azz for me.
    (I get it for dirt cheap, still won't use it)
  4. Negative ghostrider.
  5. good paint body man told me that a good carnuba is the best on black paints, I use a 3 step mothers process and have been very impressed
  6. You are on drugs my friend...
  7. would these products work just as well on dark green? i usually use mothers but i'm thinking of trying the clay bar cause my paint is getting dull.
  8. Because I do my own field study and try everything till I find what works???

    You are a tard. :flag:
  9. Insults only make the person doing the insulting look stewpid... Ya douchebags...
  10. Meguires Black Magic is what I most recently used. After clay. First few days shiney as hell. Past that it starts to go back to normal. 2 weeks later car is still shiney, but no where near what it looked on day one. My next wax job will be clay, zaino, s100.
  11. You need to wash car, clay car till baby butt smooth. Remove oxidation if needed.

    Thats why adams works for ME, all in one kit and works KILLER on dark paint.

    Lasts for months on raw paint (no clear)

    Buffer should never be used unless trained properly. Buffer uses dirt in the air to scratch the paint(clay removes the stuff stuck into the paint) Buffer can burn the paint also.
    So a super clean car is needed during the process.

    I cheat and look for stuff that needs no buffer and take real bad spots to a HIGH end shop. (Read cars WAY out of my league)

    Take this info with a grain of salt, i had great teachers........Cars with bad paint. :rlaugh: :rlaugh:
  12. :lol: :rlaugh: :D :cheers: :spot:

  13. thanks, i checked out there website...i may order some of the products and give them a shot.

    What do you use for the vert top? I just had a new black one installed and want to keep it looking good as long as possible.
  14. I use Mr. Rags, works OK. My top is faded real bad so a 03-04 fabric top is the next thing.
  15. is that the name of the product "clay bar" or is there a brand for it, ive never heard of it, also, ive never seen zaino, do stores carry them or do i have to order it online?? where can i get these products, im going to return my "zymol" tommorow and buy sumthing else.
  16. I use a garage or a car cover to protect the top and mild soap and water to keep it clean. Use NOTHING else if your top is new or in good shape.
  17. I herad about a product call 303 Aerospace Protectant, when I had my cobra on svtperformance.com, all the vert guys are using it. I ordered it online and it works great on my vert top. It claims 100% prevention of uv caused slow fade with regular use. I noticed it causes water to bead up nicely as well. It also works well on the door panels and dash.

  18. clay bar is the type of product. there are several different brands out there which are all basically the same. No clay bar is really better than the other. Clay Magic makes one that you can find at autozone or walmart. As for Zaino, you have to order it online at www.zainostore.com

    check out www.specialtymotoring.com as well. another combo to consider would be Poorboys Super Swirl Remover 2.5, ClearKote Moose Wax, ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze and Carnauba Moose Wax. I think that is the next combo that I am going to try.
  19. Wax alone has no real properties to make your black car look its best. The eye candy comes from proper paint prep more than the wax you use.

    Properly prep the paint and you can use any wax on it and it will look great. Some waxes may last longer, some may be easier on and off, other may need to be applied by buffer but it all comes down to the prep work.

    Look at wax as a sacrificial barrier between the elements and your polished car.

    Here is a news flash for many of you also....there are only a few companies that have "in-house" chemists because R&R can be very expensive so most other companies go to chemical wharehouses and "shop" for their waxes, polishes and dressings. They can pick their grade of wax, their color, scent and so on. So essentially many of the detailing supplies that many of you use are in fact the same products just dressed up differently. I know of one company that makes detailing products for several "botique" places that many of you guys shop at and you would be pissed to know just which products are which and how many of you are being ripped off.

  20. Amen, you can put a great wax on a poor surface and will not last as long. With out prep you can put Adams, Poorboys, Clearkote, Meg's, etc, etc and they will not hold up as well as it should. Also Meg's is by far crap it is a good company that has good and not so good products. ALL products have their down fall's you have too take where you live into account as in climate (extreme heat and or cold), and city's (pollution) vs. County (clean air). When you get into layering products some are not able to bond well with each other example: A hand glaze may not be able to bond well with some paint sealant due to the oils in the glaze.