Where To Place Stands When Replacing Framerails/floor Support

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by red'67coupe, Apr 14, 2014.

  1. I'm about to embark on replacing the driver's side frame rail with one of those rails with the aprons and shock towers already built on. While replacing this, I'm also going to replace: both toeboards, floor support, torque boxes and a full 1-piece floor.
    I'd like to put the car up on stands, but I guess my question would be where to SAFELY put the stands around the car if I'm removing the frame rail in the front. Anyone have any experience with this? The motor/tranny are also out of the car. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  2. just had the frame rails done on mine. make dang sure that car is level, buy a cheapie level if you have to and make sure your not at any sort of angle.
    under the back axle preferably is best,
    then passenger side front, look where the rail curves downward under the floor pan where it goes parallel to the ground, put it about 5" back from that bend. that SHOULD clear if you are planning on putting in a pass side torque box. im going to throw one in, lemme know how easy it was to weld it in please!
    then put a 4th jackstand under the front crossmember?, the big square tube thingy on the front lower end of the frame.
    make sure it doesnt rock at all before you start chopping.
  3. You will need to place the jack stands under the rockers ,everything else will be gone in the front ,make sure you set them back far enough to get the torque boxes in . put them in the rear of the rockers as well . put stands in the very back of the car as well ,not under the rear end, you will need it to stay solid so somewhere under the frame rails . Make sure the car is level side to side and front to back. i would put the front frame rail assemblies in first ,jack stands in the very front and at the back ,again leaving room to get the torque boxes in. I found it easier to assemble the front clip outside the car making sure it is square and level before welding it together ,bolt the lower brace in between the rails ,the one under the motor .This will keep the rails the proper distance apart .you can clamp a piece of angle iron or square tube across the top to keep the top the correct distance apart. I then use one of those lift tables from Harbor Freight to roll the front clip in place and lift it ,they are fairly cheep and believe me it will save you some time and heavy lifting. .Once you get the front clip located screw it to the fire wall that way you can make any adjustments you need to. the torque boxes should be next ,that will keep the front clip solid . after the front clip and torque boxes are welded then do the toe boards and the floor supports ,and finally the floor .
    Foot Hill and red'67coupe like this.
  4. you sure the rockers will take it? mine punched through. ok, yeah they were rusty though
  5. Be careful crawling under the car even when it is on stands ,it is possible to accidentally kick the stands out from under the car .
  6. Yes they will hold up there will be very little weight on any one stand . make sure the stands dont stick up into the floor because of the notch in the top of the stand it may interfere with the floor when it goes in
  7. My rockers are solid (unlike a lot of things on my car as of now), so I'm sure they'll be able to take the weight. Luckily I only have to replace the driver's side framerail assembly, so I can use the other side that is already mounted to align the side that needs to be replaced. I just picked up the remaining parts today, so I just need the semester to end so I can start the restoration. Thanks again. I'll post some pictures of progress, once I get things rolling.