Which EFI
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If your factory harness is in good shape then Pimp XS or DYI AutoTune MSPNP2 or MSPRO3. If your factory harness is not all that great then Holley Terminator X with a custom harness to integrate into your dash wiring or Pro-M's unit.
I cannot remember who does the wiring on the Terminator X harness to adapt them to the Fox Mustang dash harness but I have seen it a couple of times on here and/or the Corral.
I cannot remember who does the wiring on the Terminator X harness to adapt them to the Fox Mustang dash harness but I have seen it a couple of times on here and/or the Corral.
No, usually it's about running an updated CPU capable of accepting a custom tune and taking sensor samples at a much higher rate than the 30+ year old EEC-IV with limited adaptive capabilities.
I have seen ample examples of both.
I really think it comes down to what sensors you want to use and how much capability you want to have on the table for "what if"s.
An example:
I run a stroker, 2.2L Kenne Bell, Pro-M 75 MAF, OEM harness (modified for MAF), A9L, with a 3-bank chip in the back.
I am thinking [hard] about going back to speed density... but not with a stock EEC.
I want something that will take 2x Wide-band inputs, 3-Bar MAP, blow the TB out 80mm and have the whole thing run like a kitten in parking lots with [no] mass air meter. I'm on the fence about the engine harness... Mine is in pretty good shape as far as I know (I'm the second owner) but I'm not so attached to it that it has to stay.
For example, my last Foxbody I believed had some connection issues with the 10 pins. The car was totaled before I had a chance to clean them up, which I believe was givimg me inconsistent and eradicate readings. How much of a role do the ten pins come into play with a new efi when I get a new Fox?
They have a lot to do with it. The injector harness and sensors all go through there:
In your case, I'd swap the harness. Once you start running the wires to one sensor or one injector, at a time, it's not so bad.
Getting the old stuff surgically removed will probably take you longer.
That’s always been my take . Some guys disagree . Every ass has a seat.
To answer your dash question. Depends on what you’re doing .
You can keep stock gauges working as they do . Have to tap into 2 wires in fire wall plug . Same for tach and AC command.
Fuel pump relay wiring .
Otherwise that’s really it
This is pertaining to Holley efi .
You tuber Chris Sullivan has installed a couple of ( I believe) Holly systems on his car projects.... His 69 LX Camaro has one and I think one of his corvettes got one... To somebody like me who has never fooled with FI, it was fairly easy to follow..... You might want to watch some of his videos.....
Not necessarily. First and foremost it's about updating the 30+ year old ECU's known for failures and something a bit more modern/faster with better tuning capabilities.
Wiring depends on the vehicle. There are plenty of vehicles out there with wiring that is dry rotted out and just failing in general. There are also cars out there where the wiring is in great shape and perfectly serviceable.
I have a BigStuff 3 on 2 of my cars, both built back before 2010, and I have the stock EECIV on my daily driver. I'd go with Holley HP, Terminator X, or PimpXS (or whatever @a91what told me to) if I were doing it over again, today.
On my daily, which is running pretty well, I didn't want to do a whole standalone kit Electronically, everything's working right, but it's running rich at idle and cruise, and needs 850-900 RPM to idle acceptably. It has a Pro-M 75mm MAF with 30 lbs injectors on a car with an e-cam & GT40 heads/intake. So, given how little I really want to do with it, I found a Moates Quarterhorse on FB marketplace for $250 that I intend to install and make only minor tweaks.
On my daily, which is running pretty well, I didn't want to do a whole standalone kit Electronically, everything's working right, but it's running rich at idle and cruise, and needs 850-900 RPM to idle acceptably. It has a Pro-M 75mm MAF with 30 lbs injectors on a car with an e-cam & GT40 heads/intake. So, given how little I really want to do with it, I found a Moates Quarterhorse on FB marketplace for $250 that I intend to install and make only minor tweaks.
So I want to comeback to this topic since I have made some progress with the car. I found two broken vacuum hardliners on the bottom of the upper intake. It was sucking air and I believe the ecu was dumping fuel to save the engine. I fixed the upper intake. Taking the lower off tomorrow. I got new ACT, PCV, grommet and filter, both temp sensors, thermostat, 19lb injectors, a new wideband gauge.a new Ron Francis engine wiring harness.
This car has egt deleted, smog pump and all parts deleted. GT40 heads and intake. 2.5" catted xpipe Borla. After I get it all together and smoke tested I'm thinking I'm going to want to change the ECU? I'm looking at microsquirt, ms2pnp, pimpxs. I like the idea of having control of the parameters. I would really like to keep the ECU around $1k.. thoughts?
This car has egt deleted, smog pump and all parts deleted. GT40 heads and intake. 2.5" catted xpipe Borla. After I get it all together and smoke tested I'm thinking I'm going to want to change the ECU? I'm looking at microsquirt, ms2pnp, pimpxs. I like the idea of having control of the parameters. I would really like to keep the ECU around $1k.. thoughts?
Noobz347, say more about using a Speed Density system for better performance. I’m using a totally stock 87 TBitd SD system on my 73 Mustang, and thought I would have to convert it to MAF to ever improve performance. How would I use SD with aftermarket performance parts? Is it just having a programable ECU via the laptop, using the stock sensors?
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