Wobble in steering. What's causing this?
- Thread starter Philippe
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Mine did that and it turned out to be the wheel bearings had worn and would let the wheel move around a little. I replaced the bearings and races and it fixed it, but I think it might have also messed up the rotors a little. I'll have to check them for run out.
Jack up the front and try wiggling the wheels while holding the top and bottom of the tire. There should be no play in the bearings.
Don
Jack up the front and try wiggling the wheels while holding the top and bottom of the tire. There should be no play in the bearings.
Don
Stang951
Founding Member
The rotors are the most likely culprits. I would check them first. The check your pads to make sure that they are grabbing evenly.
If not I would recommend the stainless steel caliper sleeves from MM or Steeda.
If not I would recommend the stainless steel caliper sleeves from MM or Steeda.
Well, the pads have less then 10K miles on them, so they should be ok.
When you say the rotors are the most likely culprits, you mean warped or stuff? Wouldn't I feel that thru the pedal?
And the steel brake lines are ordered (Steeda) and should be received shortly. Along with a few suspension goodies from Steeda. While I have the front end apart, I'd like to fix the wobble.
Philippe
When you say the rotors are the most likely culprits, you mean warped or stuff? Wouldn't I feel that thru the pedal?
And the steel brake lines are ordered (Steeda) and should be received shortly. Along with a few suspension goodies from Steeda. While I have the front end apart, I'd like to fix the wobble.
Philippe
This is good for checking the wheel bearings. Also pay attention to the ball joints when doing this test. Then grab the tires by the front and rear, still off the ground, and check for play that way[ like you are trying to steer the tire]. I am guessing that it may be tie rod ends. could be inners or outers on either side, or any combination of these. You just have to pay close attention to which parts are sloppy and which are tight. Are you noticing any strange tire wear, like cupping on the insides?gt90stang said:
Stang951
Founding Member
Thats a good idea Jerry.
What I meant was the stainless steel caliper sleeve. It replaces the ruber bushings in the calipers and makes them stay even on the brake pads. More even wear that way and supposedly better braking during high speeds.
You may not feel warped rotors through the brake pedal. Drums for sure, but I have had vibrations through the car and steering column in my old Thunderchicken from warped rotors and never felt them through the pedal. Do as suggested above and check the run-out when you take everything down. ...and I forgot all about the bearings could need replacing or repacking as well.
What I meant was the stainless steel caliper sleeve. It replaces the ruber bushings in the calipers and makes them stay even on the brake pads. More even wear that way and supposedly better braking during high speeds.
You may not feel warped rotors through the brake pedal. Drums for sure, but I have had vibrations through the car and steering column in my old Thunderchicken from warped rotors and never felt them through the pedal. Do as suggested above and check the run-out when you take everything down. ...and I forgot all about the bearings could need replacing or repacking as well.
BlackFox5.0
Founding Member
Grab your tire and move it side to side, and then up and down, it should not have any play, if there is, have someone look on the backside of the wheel while you move it, it could be wheel bearings, inner and/or outer tierods, or the ball joint. It can be any combination of these, just find out where it's moving if it is...
Ok, well, let's see.
Part of the new suspension goodies is an X2 balljoint and bumpsteer kit from Steeda. So right away, the tierod/balljoint thing will be taken care of. The tire are evenly worn and should be properly balance (not a single vibration while accelerating, all the way to 130 MPH. haven't tried faster.).
Stang951, ok, now I get it. Well, I'm saving up to upgrade to Baer or Stainless Steel brakes next winter, so I'll bypass the caliper improvement till then. Anyway, they are available just for 87 to 93. I have a 94.
For rotors, I can get new ones from UAP/NAPA for $35 CDN (about $25 US), so I guess I'll just get those so I can switch them while I'm at it.
Thank for the help!
Philippe
Part of the new suspension goodies is an X2 balljoint and bumpsteer kit from Steeda. So right away, the tierod/balljoint thing will be taken care of. The tire are evenly worn and should be properly balance (not a single vibration while accelerating, all the way to 130 MPH. haven't tried faster.).
Stang951, ok, now I get it. Well, I'm saving up to upgrade to Baer or Stainless Steel brakes next winter, so I'll bypass the caliper improvement till then. Anyway, they are available just for 87 to 93. I have a 94.
For rotors, I can get new ones from UAP/NAPA for $35 CDN (about $25 US), so I guess I'll just get those so I can switch them while I'm at it.
Thank for the help!
Philippe
Well, here's an update. I changed the front discs ($25 each from NAPA), replaced the balljoints with X2 units from Steeda, replaced the outer tie-rods with a Steeda bumpsteer kit (nice kit by the way) and the wobble is gone.
By the way, those Steeda parts where accompanied with a set of Steeda sport springs. Those are lowering springs. I don't know about using the X2 and bumpsteer kit on non-lowered cars.
By the way, those Steeda parts where accompanied with a set of Steeda sport springs. Those are lowering springs. I don't know about using the X2 and bumpsteer kit on non-lowered cars.
