Since you were unable to source a RS nose then I would go with your idea of putting the Saleen lower with the Capri upper
It won't fit. It's too rounded at the corners for the Capri nose.
Since you were unable to source a RS nose then I would go with your idea of putting the Saleen lower with the Capri upper
Really need someone to explain how to convert the wiring from the Aero 3-wire 2-headlight setup to the four-eyed 5-wire/4-headlight setup.
on my mobile phoone right now...can't see pics!!!
Since the car was originally a 4 eye, shouldn't there be a sort of "reverse hack job" approach to this? Or did they "do it right" and swap out the whole headlight harness? That might be a better/easier solution, just swap the light harness with an older one.
Dave did a 3g alternator conversion on my Capri today and also fixed my horn. I can give old people heart attacks now!
They did everything right and I mean EVERYTHING so basically, it's like we're converting an aero car to four eye.
Really need someone to explain how to convert the wiring from the Aero 3-wire 2-headlight setup to the four-eyed 5-wire/4-headlight setup.
Nuttin to it Dave. You will need 4 two prong headlight plugs. The current one you have will have a ground a low beam positive and a high beam positive. Gonna need a voltage tester to see what wire is hot for the low/high beams. Then you take the low beam positive and the ground and run it to one of the new two prong plugs and run the ground to the other terminal on the plug. Then you put the high beam positive on the other plug and just run a grouns wire to the other pin and you are good to go.
BTW, the low beams are the outside most lights
Hmmm ... so, we'll need basically four high-beam bulbs? Because the inside ones are the high beams and they're only two-prong deals. (The outer bulbs/plugs are four-prong.) Either that, or I guess I could just hook up one power wire on each of the low-beam plugs and one ground and just leave the third undone.
I've got a multimeter, but I think it's kinda halfway fried. Only the continuity part seems to work.
Hey Lynn / Dave, did either of you create a list of what parts are needed to do 100% complete the exterior? Interested to see whats needed.
You can do that but I would run a seperate ground for the high beams. Just because I like a good solid ground.
Also, dosent the low beam only have 3 terminals on it? + low, + high and - ? If that is so then you will nees to run a wire from the high beams + to that other low beam terminal and that will allow the low beam to stay on when the highs are on.
Best thing to do would be to test the voltage on the three terminals you have now. Find the one that has power in the low beam position and then switch your high beams on and see if it still has power on it. If it does then you dont have to run a wire to the other side of the bulb to the high beams positive.
Basically the low beams will run normally when the brights are on and not dim like they are supposed to. Just means you will have more light that way But that is also a reason to run a seperate ground for the brights so you dont run too much current through one small ground wire