Need a confirmation to buy the right parts... 56K Warning

[PM 65]

Hello together,

I have a problem with the front brakes of my car. When driving the car really hard on the brakes it begann to turn right as soon as i hit the brakes. In the beginning this problem only occured when i pushed the brakes very hard and they were hot. But nowadays the problem occurs constantly when i step on the brakes.
I think the brake piston on the drivers side has got some rust on it and moves slower than the piston on the passengers side. When i step on the brake for longer time the car first turns right and after a second the drivers side brake beginns to work equally and the braking is like it should be. To repair this issue i want to renew the brake piston and the seals with a repair kit. But to do this i first need to know what brake i have installed on the front. They are not original 65 Mustang Front Disc brakes. After searching the net im very sure that some previous owner maked the granada disc swap on my car. I live in Austria and getting parts for my car is difficult. So usually i buy parts in online shops from america and let it ship to me. Problem with that is i must be 100% sure that i have buyed the correct item!

Long story, short questions:
* can somebody verify with the help of the following pictures that these are granada disc brakes?
* that this parts will fit on my car? Mustangs Plus*::*Brakes*::*Granada Conversion Front Brake Parts*::*1975-80 Granada/Monarch LH Front Caliper i know this is the complete caliper but i didnt find an online shop which sells a repair kit which contains the brake piston. Anybody know a source for this which will ship oversea? Big thanks for that!
* do you need some measurments from any part of the brake system (rotor size or else for example) to make a 100% clarify on what brakes are installed?

thanks for your answers
nice greetings
Mario

 

[PM 65]

bringing this thread back to page 1, maybe any of the weekend users can give me a hint?

all suggestions are surely welcome!

Thanks Mario

 

[tx65coupe]

You should be able to put those new calipers on it. It looks like you have Granada brakes to me. Thats what I have on my 65 and it looks the same as yours.

What size are the rotors?

I don't care for rebuilding calipers, I would rather just have new ones. FYI, replace both calipers so that you will have equal performance on both sides.

The odd behavior while braking could also be an alignment issue. Have that checked if you still have problems after redoing the brakes.

There are different alignment specs for Granada spindles than for regular Mustang spindles. I think that information is available on Mustang Steve website.

 

[blown65]

Looks like granada brakes too me. Same as whats on my car.

Also check how loose your steering is, but Ill say, mine is damn loose and still under breaking doesnt go all over the place. Prob just have one caliper catching or something.

 

[PM 65]

Thank you both for your answers!

I dont know the rotor size so i will try to find some time to measure it next week! Are there any big differences? I thought (read it on a site) there are all 10" for 1975-1980?

Buy new calipers -> this would be my goal or rather i would like to buy a loaded caliper which has the piston and seals included. Searched the net for hours to find an online shop which have new fabricated calibers in their programm. No find until now, but i will look further for it!

It`s pretty sure that the drivers side caliper piston is catching. There are incredible temperature difference`s between the left and right disc. We measured that with a heat laser gun.

Is my suggestion right that you buy your brake parts in local stores and not over the net? Could really use a good direction tip where to look!

Thanks, Mario

btw, what brand of brake pads are you guys using?

 

[tx65coupe]

I actually got my parts from Rock Auto. I got everything from them. Also, Mustangs Plus has Granada parts. I'm not sure what you mean by loaded calipers. I thought loaded calipers meant they came the pads and everything. A new caliper will have the seals already installed. Any new or rebuilt caliper should come with the seals etc already in place.

The rotors should be 10 inch. I think that is correct for 75-80 cars. I have heard that there are smaller ones mabye for the non V8 cars. I'm not sure since I have never seen them. The only reason I asked is if they are not 10 inch then they could be something else.

While you have it apart, I would put new wheel bearings in it.

 

[PM 65]

Aaah, work is killing me this week, even in my so called free time. Unfortunately I didn’t find the time to measure the rotor size. Business trip and late night work kills my complete time!
I once ordered parts from Rockauto, with no problems and since I didn’t find a source to buy complete new parts I’m gonna order all from Rockauto.
I choose to take the parts when it’s possible from the manufacturer Raybesto. Good choice?

I looked through the online shop with following parameters: Ford / Granada / 1976 / 302cid V8 2BBL and constructed my shopping list:

2x brake caliper (left and right) front
2x Anti Rattle Pack for Disc brakes
2x brake hose front
2x inner wheel bearing front
2x outer wheel bearing front
2x dust cap

For more info please look at my cart, here is the link: Shoping Cart

Any missing part in my list or something that will not fit?

I was wrong with my thinking about the loaded caliper. My suggestion and translation was this means the caliper is equipped with the caliber piston. Now I realized the meaning, its loaded with brake pads. As you wrote the caliper is always attached with the caliper piston. I`m sorry for the confusion!

Btw, with what brand / type of brake pads are your cars equipped? I`m going to buy the calipers without the pads and look around where to get some good street / track pads. I use the car not as daily driver, it’s used as a summer weekend car. Driving on the mountain passes and 2-3 times in the year for an oldtimer rallye.

nice greetings
Mario

 

[tx65coupe]

What about the seal?

No need to apoligize, everyone thinks of things differently sometimes.

I got my stuff from RA too. I got Raybestos pads.

 

[PM 65]

you mean this seal?

 

[tx65coupe]

That looks like it. It goes on the back of the rotor hub. It presses in. I use a small block of wood and tap it in. I think you have everything now. Except you will want new cotter pins for the spindle nut retianers. I'm talking the things that look like bottle caps.

 

[PM 65]

Cool, than i am ready to order now and thanks for the hint with the cotter pins!

If i would living near to you i would spend some beer but so i just say: Thanks a million for you writing and effort! :SNSign:

best greetings
Mario

 

[tx65coupe]

Your welcome! I hope your brake rebuild goes well.

Don't forget to send your calipers back for the core charge. Its 60 bucks.

Make sure to pack your new bearings real good. You can do it by hand. I have a hand held bearing packer that attaches to the grease gun. It is 2 discs that the bearing goes in between. I usually use it and then go over them with some extra grease by hand. The packer is only a few bucks if you want one.

Also when putting the spindle nut back on don't overtighten it. Are you familiar with how to do that?

AutoZone.com | Bearing Packer

 

[tx65coupe]

Whats it like having a classic Mustang in Europe? I bet there aren't too many of them. I think originally the exported Mustang was called the T-5. If you look at this link you'll see that the emblem on the fender says T-5 instead of Mustang. Have you ever seen one of these? I haven't.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featu...w_1965_ford_mustang_history_review/index.html

 

[stangman16]

The odd behavior while braking could also be an alignment issue. Have that checked if you still have problems after redoing the brakes.

IF you know people, I would check the alignment first... seems it'd be cheaper!

I could've sworn there was some type of lubricant needed on the sliding parts, I just cannot remember which ones.

Also, how are your pads? Even wear on both sides?

 

[tx65coupe]

Your correct. Where the caliper slides on the mounting bracket just needs some good grease. Thats what I have always used. Is it a special lube?

 

[Rusty67]

There is a special lube for brake parts. You want to use a synchetic break grease so it doesn't eat the rubber over time.

 

[PM 65]

The bearing packer looks really like a cheap but good little helper! Must look around where I can get it in my area. I`m familiar how to tighten the spindle nut for the right amount of power on the bearings.

to stangman16/Rusty67: Thanks for the input, we checked the alignment , its ok. All looking points to a caliber failure on the driver side. The pad wear is slightly more on the passenger side. Since the car is not getting more than ~650Miles per year I didn’t excepted much difference, even when the passenger side brake is working more than the one on the drivers side.
I also used some good high temperature grease for the sliding parts, but I will check for the special lube like.

So to answer the “What´s it like having a classic Mustang in Europe”? Question...

You`re right, the first Mustangs in Germany and Austria have had the name T-5 because the Company “Krupp and Kreidler” had the copyright on the name Mustang. I don’t know at what specific year this changed. I have seen 2 real original T-5 on a car show here in my area.

In Germany there are lots of Mustang Owner and Fan Clubs. The Import Rate for the classic and new Mustang raised since 1995 enormously and started sinking rapidly in 2004 as the fuel prices began to go high like a rocket to the moon. As I mentioned in some post above i´m from Austria and things here are different and if you have seen the movie BRÜNO --> Austrian`s are not like that!

First of all I would like to mention the other mentality for the whole car scene in Austria/Germany compared to the USA. Here everybody know the mustang for the pony-, musclecar image and folks mostly smile and wave their hands when you drive by or they are just looking and pointing at you. Their knowledge generally is that the car has a V8 and maybe it produces a lots of horsepower and is fast on the straights and ****ty in corners and it`s an oldtimer like the jaguar e-type or triumph TR6.
There is merely a tuning scene for the mustang, only some clubs with their members. Most of them are obsessed to keep or rebuild them complete original with no modifications. Also there living attitude is the American spirit from 40 years ago. People like I am are not so welcome there, because we modify the car and we use the full potential of it. Drive it hard on the street and mountain passes. The other ones prefer to cruise slowly on the streets with big exhaust pipes that everybody can hear the V8 bubble sound.
The oldtimer scene here is generally for the older 45+ people. When they buy a car like the mustang then they are buying their child-dream. Also they have the money for that. Surely there are some younger arounds, like me, who would and who drive old cars in their free time. For daily driving the classic are to expensive. Charge, fuel prices, lots of rain / snow (salt-- > rust) are the most common reason why oldtimers are mostly driven in summer time in our country. I´m 27 now and i`m on the old car habit because my father is an oldtimer enthusiast. I was raised with old cars so the virus bite me and I also want to have an old car. I spared 8 years all my money and searched for three years to get a rust free stang with all parts on it. It was not driveable when I buyed it and the paint was bad. I did all the repairing work on my own and the new paint was put on by an good buddy from mine.

I`m often jealous of the big part-market in America. Parts are in relation to us very cheap and you have so much possibilities in modifications and brands. Also your tools are very cheap.
But even if there where are market with such part choice around my area, it would be useless. Because our laws doesn’t allow changes on the car without proof from a Austria technical institution. I mean the same institution which gives me the every year vehicle inspection sticker. It`s possible to put other rims, dropping height from the car, other steering or put some wings on your car. There is no big problem, you go to the institution show them the paper from the manufacturer that this change is allowed on the car / type with the proof of Austria. You must pay a charge and they will put an entry in your car-papers . But putting parts on your car like another rearend, transmission, steering, rims which have for example only American proof or motor tuning parts…. damm!, veeery difficult and when you find a legal way its brutal expensive! amnit:
How is this handled in your country? Are you allowed to replace parts on your car like rearends, transmission, heads etc. without going to a technical institution?


To make the story not even longer, the conclusion is: to have an Mustang in Europe ist great and everyone acknowledge that this car is a part of car-history. Even the younger generation with their wings on their bmw, golf, Honda, mazda etc. gives credits to the car. Getting parts is related with some amount of time searching where to get it and sometimes it`s the horror!!! But with the internet,online shops with shipment to europe and the right help and the knowledge of the possibilities where to ask its affordable. Modifying a mustang and keep it streetlegal is very difficult.

If you have some special questions on something please feel free to ask, I will answer them gladly.

greetings Mario

 

[tx65coupe]

I can't believe you have so much legal trouble modifying your car. Here we can do pretty much whatever we want. You can get to a point where it won't pass inspection, but that is usually not an issue.

With all the stuff I"ve done to my 65, it probably would have been an issue over there from what your saying.

We have classic Mustang clubs here too. Usually, they don't mind of the car has been modified. They welcome both coucours and restomod etc. There are the purists that don't like it though.

The same thing is true about most of the tuner guys here. They like the classic Stangs.

If you need Mustang parts shipped to you. There are some good places like NPD, Mustangs Unlimited, Mustangs Plus etc. I believe that most of them ship internationally. Have you already found these places?

Do you have to do what the Aussies have to about rear blinkers. I have seen cars from Australia with the back up lights converted to amber turn signals.

 

[PM 65]

I already purchased something in most shops you listened. One of my favorite is Summit Racing. But they have high shipping costs, so this is only good for huge orders to compensate the costs.

If you know another shop, please write! Every part source is important Thanks for that!

We have the same blinker problem as the Aussies have. No red blinker allowed, no complete backlight flashing allowed. Some of use converterd their backlights in red and orange segments and when the blinker is used only the orange segment is blinking.
As my car was imported from california the problem was solved as shown in the picture.
click me
The technic institution was satisfied with that. For me, its not the best optic solution but its alright and it works.

Some buddy`s in Austria / Germany drive around with the original blinker setup and the chance that the police let you go or give you a ticket is 50/50.

 

[tx65coupe]

Usually Summit has good shipping charges here.

I'll try to make a list of some shops you can check out.

As far as the rear amber turnsignals go I see what you mean about yours. Why not do what I've seen on the Aussie cars where they take the factory back up lights and put an amber front turnsignal lense on it. That looks decent. You could also try this. Its LED and the farthest outer segment of the 3 bars is amber. I always wanted to get their sequential lights for mine.

Mustang Project - Catalog

http://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=e4e52b25-ec8a-4786-ab66-1524a532851f