I know guys running high 7 second quarter mile times on factory distributors. The factory design is the best. Getting a quality one that isn't poorly rebuilt is the challenge.
Kurt
Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build
- Thread starter Habu135
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Kurt
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Math is math. At what point is any of what I posted wrong? You can argue if 1-3/4 primaries are big enough or not, but nothing else I posted is wrong.
I actually argued that the 1 3/4 were big enough. The exhaust comes out the side of the valve, not the bottom. So if you are looking for the cross sectional area of the header primary, it would be A=pieR. That one is simple. For the valve exit area, it would be circumference times lift. Or valve diamteter x pie x lift. So the cross sectional area of a 1 7/8" primary would be 2.95 sq". The outflow area of a 1.6" valve at .600" lift would be 3.02 sq" of area. An inconsequential difference totally overshadowed by the fact that the header primary is a free flowing unit, and the valve is only at .600" lift for a fraction of a second.
Kurt
I have a set of them and I'm not a huge fan. I'll likely go with the Ford Racibg ones that Mustang5L5 showed. Those will match my black car perfectly and are very classy.
Awesome. Good info. I've priced a new Motorcraft TFI modules through Rock Auto and will pick one up to be safe, but otherwise I'll run the Ford factory distributor.
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I really appreciate the back and forth from you all. I'm learning a lot about this build process and the car from this.
I just read through this thread and a couple of things that might be helpful. I run the Ford Racing valve covers with the low profile Scorpion RR. I think they are the Endurance series. I didn’t need to modify the the valve covers for them to fit.
I run a Cobra intake with no spacer. All I did was slotted the throttle cable bracket a little bit so it would clear the valve covers.
For injectors I run the 80 lb Dekas like 96pushrod recommended. My car is a 302 based H/C/I setup with a Quarterhorse for tuning. The tuner recommended them because they are very precise with their slopes making them easy to tune. My car idles and runs like a stocker.
I run a Cobra intake with no spacer. All I did was slotted the throttle cable bracket a little bit so it would clear the valve covers.
For injectors I run the 80 lb Dekas like 96pushrod recommended. My car is a 302 based H/C/I setup with a Quarterhorse for tuning. The tuner recommended them because they are very precise with their slopes making them easy to tune. My car idles and runs like a stocker.
Fwiw that’s od measurement, you actually lose 1/8in dia to wall thickness. Sometimes even more depending on how the primaries are pinched at the flange.
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I've had the black ones before on a prior car and they looked pretty classy. The grey ones I agree look blahI have a set of them and I'm not a huge fan. I'll likely go with the Ford Racibg ones that Mustang5L5 showed. Those will match my black car perfectly and are very classy.
I've also had the ford motorsport ones in the past and had them polished. They looked great but were a real pita to keep clean looking with the fins
Here's my updated list. Feel free to pick it apart, but I think this is a 95% solution.
Engine
Ford Racing Z2363 engine (rear sump): $10,499.99
Trick Flow R-Series intake w/90mm opening (silver): $729.99
Trick Flow 3/8 intake spacer: $72.99 (TFS-51520009)
Accufab 90mm throttle body: $289.99
Accufab 2” wide 90mm throttle body spacer: $94.99
Ford Racing valve covers: $189.99 (#M6000J302R)
44 pound fuel injectors: $524.99
BBK long tube headers: $569.99 (#BBK-15940) and X-pipe: $499.99 (#BBK-1659)
Anderson Power Pipe: $276.59 (#AF-0112A-90)
Anderson filter and coupler for ’03-’04 Cobra MAF: $72.95 (#KITLMF)
JMS MAF extension harnessand Pro-M 4 to 6 pin adapter: $49 (jms-8695-ext) and $45 (PMR9304) already have the adapter
Coolant temp sensor: $19.99 (#LRS-12648A)
Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor: $19.99 (#LRS-12697A)
Temperature gauge sending unit: $14.99 (#LRS-TS58)
Oil pressure sending unit: $30.99 LMR (#LRS-PS243)
Transmission
D&D Transmission Fox Body T-56 transmission kit w/2.97 first gear: $4,995.00
Ask them about my application and whether they suggest the 2.66 or 2.97 first gear trans
Will also need a new clutch. Get a single disc clutch.
I can utilize the existing 157 tooth steel flywheel
Shifter: MGW shifter for a T-56
Suggested additional items:
Relocated throttle bracket https://mc-machine.com/ols/products/50-throttle-cable-bracket
PA Performance mini-PMGR starter (#1806): $149.00
Engine
Ford Racing Z2363 engine (rear sump): $10,499.99
Trick Flow R-Series intake w/90mm opening (silver): $729.99
Trick Flow 3/8 intake spacer: $72.99 (TFS-51520009)
Accufab 90mm throttle body: $289.99
Accufab 2” wide 90mm throttle body spacer: $94.99
Ford Racing valve covers: $189.99 (#M6000J302R)
44 pound fuel injectors: $524.99
BBK long tube headers: $569.99 (#BBK-15940) and X-pipe: $499.99 (#BBK-1659)
Anderson Power Pipe: $276.59 (#AF-0112A-90)
Anderson filter and coupler for ’03-’04 Cobra MAF: $72.95 (#KITLMF)
JMS MAF extension harness
Coolant temp sensor: $19.99 (#LRS-12648A)
Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor: $19.99 (#LRS-12697A)
Temperature gauge sending unit: $14.99 (#LRS-TS58)
Oil pressure sending unit: $30.99 LMR (#LRS-PS243)
Transmission
D&D Transmission Fox Body T-56 transmission kit w/2.97 first gear: $4,995.00
Ask them about my application and whether they suggest the 2.66 or 2.97 first gear trans
Will also need a new clutch. Get a single disc clutch.
I can utilize the existing 157 tooth steel flywheel
Shifter: MGW shifter for a T-56
Suggested additional items:
Relocated throttle bracket https://mc-machine.com/ols/products/50-throttle-cable-bracket
PA Performance mini-PMGR starter (#1806): $149.00
FYI, a lot of the sensors and such that LMR sells is parts-store brand sensors that LMR marks up. You might be able to save 50% by just going to your local autozone or bulk-ordering it from Rockauto.
Of course, in the grand scheme of things, it will save you 0.001% of what you are spending
Of course, in the grand scheme of things, it will save you 0.001% of what you are spending
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
You need one of these too 
s1sequential.com
Sequential shifter : Ford/Viper T56/Tr6060
A bolt on sequential gearbox conversion for ford t56 and tr6060 gearbox. This is the simplest most effective way to convert a standard gearbox to sequential shift. The design is strong and reliable allowing use in everything from high power endurance racing cars to daily driven street car.
s1sequential.com
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I'm actually going to screw the T-5 knob to the top for the sake of originality. Dumb, but understated is what I'm going for.You need one of these too
Sequential shifter : Ford/Viper T56/Tr6060
A bolt on sequential gearbox conversion for ford t56 and tr6060 gearbox. This is the simplest most effective way to convert a standard gearbox to sequential shift. The design is strong and reliable allowing use in everything from high power endurance racing cars to daily driven street car.
3.73. Nitto 555R for now. I'll see how bad it is.
I would like some input on the 2.66 versus 2.97 T-56. The transmissions differ throughout the first three gears.
Those are all retail prices. BBK already told me they would give me a 10% mil discount. Rock Auto is a good resource. Thanks for that reminder.
I need one of those. Thanks for sharing. Does it work well?You need one of these too
Sequential shifter : Ford/Viper T56/Tr6060
A bolt on sequential gearbox conversion for ford t56 and tr6060 gearbox. This is the simplest most effective way to convert a standard gearbox to sequential shift. The design is strong and reliable allowing use in everything from high power endurance racing cars to daily driven street car.
Kurt
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